Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 40
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Congrats on the time man, gives me something to look forward to when I take mine down the strip (assuming I can drive it properly :)) as I have a similar setup.

Once I can get it launching properly, hoping for mid to high 11 second pass... but yeah congratulations dude ;)

Congrats on getting into the 11's mate ;)

You just can't beat a mild street GT-R set-up. An 11sec street car that can put its power down with minimal fuss, you've got to love that. 4WD ='s sub 2.0 60's even if you can't drive to save yourself, like me :)

Just going off topic for a sec... Buster (Brett?) do you use your NT555's for general street driving? And if so, how do you rate them?

In japan i ran :

R33 GT-R(not vspec)

HKS Full Exhaust

17PSI

Maxxis Tyres 245's ( MA-v1) : they are really crap.

HKS Cam Gears

11.98 @ 118Mph

60Ft = cannot remember i think 1.8 ?

Standard ECU

button clutch

TRUST AIRPODS

with some good pair of tyres and uniglide and 22PSI i could easly do mid to low 11's.

Just going off topic for a sec... Buster (Brett?) do you use your NT555's for general street driving? And if so, how do you rate them?

Yep I've got one pair on my 17" Volk TE37's rear (everyday wheels), and another pair on the 16" R32 GTR rims (drag rims), I have found them to be great grip wise as what ever I can do at the stripp I can near do on the street if needed, though they wear out pretty damn fast

Thanks for the info Buster ;) As soon as funds are available NT555's will be going onto the rear. If they last me 2-3k, with a couple of drag meets mixed in, I'll be happy enough. The used pair you had for sale, they were 16's weren't they?

Sorry for the small hijack everyone... carry on :(

This is why I was surprised with the terminal speed of Mark's pass with GT2530s...

Damn!!! Just got back from calder, 12.00 @114mph......

I want that 11!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Oh yeah, stock turbos running 1.1 bar, stock ecu.....

114mph with stock turbos and stock ECU :stupid::/:rofl:

This is why I was surprised with the terminal speed of Mark's pass with GT2530s...

114mph with stock turbos and stock ECU :stupid::/:rofl:

And that's with 260rwkws (274rwkws in shootout mode) and Nismo twin plate clutch, fark that clutch can take a beating and keep biting hard...

hahaha thats cool, you should be able to get 3k out of them and a few drag meets for sure depends on how big a burnouts you do, yeah I'm selling the 16's

Thanks again mate. I'm not one for HUGE burnouts, but if that's what the Nittos need to stick, then so be it :D I'd like to try and squeeze 275/40/17's on the back.

Merli,

Mark is not running the 2530s no way near to their full potential yet.

2-3 mph difference between Jack's and Mark's run adds up to the 20-30 kw difference at the wheels.

High 120s is achievable with the 2530s and maybe that magical 130mph. That may be good enough for 10s on Nittos. :P

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So stock ECU does not like anything above 10 psi?  That Nistune one is just for "try" if it will be any different, I know it need to be tune for that. I know but YOU may know about these problem but i/we dont. They few little Skylines here let alone people who know anything about tham so that is why iam asking here  
    • So now we have a radiator with no attachments whatsoever. It lifts up with a particularly tight spot between the drivers side air box mount and the lower radiator outlet, but if you've got this far you will sort that too. This is the lower mounts with the rad out so you can see where the rubber bushes go, it is a straight shot upwards Done! Assembly is the reverse of disassembly, with blood less likely to be shed.
    • Right, onto the second last trick. The Air Con condenser is mounted to the front of the radiator and stays in the car when the radiator is removed. There are 2x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the condenser to the radiator, remove those The bottom of the condenser is attached to the radiator with clips. You need to lift the condenser out of those clips and clear (up, then forward). f**ked if  could work out how to do that last bit with the front bumper on. I hope you can, and you share the trick.  Bumper removal probably deserves its own thread one day once I've recovered the will to live, but basically you need to remove the wheels, front inner guard liners (clips and 10mm headed bolts), the self tapper between the guard and the bumper at the rearmost point of the bumper (same as an R32 that bit), any remaining clips at the top/front of the grill, an absolute bastard design with a plate that holds the top of the bumper above the headlight each side (only 1 bolt which is tricky to get to, but the plate catches 2 places on the bumper and must be removed....carefully!) and push clips between the bumper and guard under the headlight. If you've done all that you will be faced with wiring for the fog lights on both sides and in ADM Q50 RS at least, 4 nasty tight plugs on the driver's side for the ADAS stuff. So, the clips at the bottom look like this on drivers side (looking from the front) And on the passenger side (also from the front), you can see this one is already out Clearance on both of these are super tight; the condenser needs to move up but the upper rad support mount prevents that, and the radiator can't move down far because it is (rubber) mounted. Once you achieve the impossible and drop the condenser off those mounts so it does not stop the rad moving, you are good to go
    • OK, next the shroud needs to come off and there are a couple of tricks. Firstly, there is a loom from near the passenger side headlight to the fans, coolant temp sensor etc and there is no plug to undo.  In my case I was OK to leave the shroud on top of the engine so I just undid the passenger side fan plug and about 10 of the clips which gave enough free wire to put it aside. The fan plugs were super tight, the trick I used was a small falt screwdriver to push down on the release tab, then a larger flat screwdriver to lever the plug out of the fan unit....be careful with how much force you apply! If you need to remove the shroud altogether for some reason you will have to deal with all the plugs (tight) and clips (brittle)....good luck. I removed all of the clips and replaced them with cable ties that I will just cut next time. Also, in the Red Sport / 400R at least, the intake heat exchanger reservoir hose is bolted to the shroud in 2 places with 10mm headed bolts; so remove them (the hose stays in the car; no need to undo it at the t fittings down at the radiator lower mount. Once you've dealt with the HX hose and the wiring loom, there are 3x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the shroud to the radiator; remove those.   The shroud then lifts out of the bottom mounts where it sits on the radiator, up and onto the engine out of the way. Simples
    • Ok, disregard my “rate them” comment, sorry for my unrealistic input
×
×
  • Create New...