Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys just wondering what top end kits are people running i.e.

1. i would like to use the vct in the neo head so what oil pump and gears?

2. tomei do a range of pro and pon cams im thinking the of the pon cam type b????

3. also what springs and shims and retainers are people using for the cams

also does anyone have the specs on a argo h beam conrods????and what piston to suit

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/370628-head/
Share on other sites

i wouldnt be wasting to much money on the head, all you need to make that power is drop in cams, upgraded springs, and cam gears for fine tunning.

a GT35 turbo or equivalent would be all you need.

CP Pistons 9.0:1

argo pistons will be fine check with engine builder for specs.

you should also keep in mind the costs of block & crank prep work. around that $1500.

before you start sending any blocks away have a clutch pressure plate, flywheel and the harmonic balancer sent to the machine shop with the block & crank to be balanced all together.

i get my machine shop to supply my with the correct bearing to suit.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/370628-head/#findComment-5915346
Share on other sites

i wouldnt be wasting to much money on the head, all you need to make that power is drop in cams, upgraded springs, and cam gears for fine tunning.

a GT35 turbo or equivalent would be all you need.

CP Pistons 9.0:1

argo pistons will be fine check with engine builder for specs.

you should also keep in mind the costs of block & crank prep work. around that $1500.

before you start sending any blocks away have a clutch pressure plate, flywheel and the harmonic balancer sent to the machine shop with the block & crank to be balanced all together.

i get my machine shop to supply my with the correct bearing to suit.

hey thanks for getting back to me so quickly :) so are u saying that the valves and buckets+ shims are good for that much power? i have cam gears already

also i sent argo an email about there rb30 h rods and i worked out that there .160 thou smaller then my machinist said to get can anyone confirm that will be ok??

as for prep work my mate is the machinist lol and block was free (winning)

as for the clutch and flywheel is it rb30 or 25

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/370628-head/#findComment-5916462
Share on other sites

look has no one finished building there 25/30

???????

1. i would like to use the vct in the neo head so what oil pump and gears in oil pump?

2. tomei do a range of pon cams im thinking the of the pon cam type b???? any used them???

3. also what springs and shims and retainers are people using for the cams in the neo head???

also does anyone have the specs on a argo h beam conrods????and what piston to suit or rods for about 700hp or more?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/370628-head/#findComment-5918120
Share on other sites

Any aftermarket oil pump will do the trick. Tomei, Jun, HKS, Nitto or any other brand name pump. They all flow a shitload more then standard and will do the job fine. You will just need to get a collar.

You can get the tomei valve springs if they make them to suit the neo head. Tomei cams are fine. IVe only ever used the type a poncams. But cant see why the type b wont work. The Supertech valve train gear is great too. Especially since the dollar is so good atm. Not sure if they have stuff to suit the neo head though. I think thats the limiting factor with the neo head is lack of aftermarket parts in comparison to the rb25det head and 26 head.

What sort of specs are you after exactly on the H beam rods? Virtually any aftermarket rod will suit, so long as its for an RB30, Spool, eagle, argo, nitto whatever. The power you are going for is not that big that it warrants anything special. Piston choice is much the same. CP's will be fine, JE's or Ross or whatever your choice.

If you are using the rb25 gearbox, then use all your rb25 clutch and flywheel gear.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/370628-head/#findComment-5918582
Share on other sites

It's also a fairly loose power guide mate. A turbo to suite 500hp is vey different to 700hp. Eg. Gt35 wod be best for your 500hp goal, but won't do a whole lot more very comfortably. T04z will get you 600hp at the wheels, but will be a fair bit more lag compared to a gt35. And still, a t04z won't get you to 700hp. The engine build involved is the same for those targets, but the different turbos will make for a completely different car to drive. If it were me I'd stick to 500hp as I still like a little bit of response.

Nitto oil pump would b my choice as well. Heaps of praise around the forums for them.

I think te bigger factor rather then what pistons and rods you choose is how well it's put together.

Is this car for street or track?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/370628-head/#findComment-5918679
Share on other sites

Any aftermarket oil pump will do the trick. Tomei, Jun, HKS, Nitto or any other brand name pump. They all flow a shitload more then standard and will do the job fine. You will just need to get a collar.

You can get the tomei valve springs if they make them to suit the neo head. Tomei cams are fine. IVe only ever used the type a poncams. But cant see why the type b wont work. The Supertech valve train gear is great too. Especially since the dollar is so good atm. Not sure if they have stuff to suit the neo head though. I think thats the limiting factor with the neo head is lack of aftermarket parts in comparison to the rb25det head and 26 head.

What sort of specs are you after exactly on the H beam rods? Virtually any aftermarket rod will suit, so long as its for an RB30, Spool, eagle, argo, nitto whatever. The power you are going for is not that big that it warrants anything special. Piston choice is much the same. CP's will be fine, JE's or Ross or whatever your choice.

If you are using the rb25 gearbox, then use all your rb25 clutch and flywheel gear.

also just getting spool rods for the bottom

do u know arias are a good brand Part Num:ap332104 does it suit the neo or do u have the part number for CP's, je's, Ross ????

cheers

It's also a fairly loose power guide mate. A turbo to suite 500hp is vey different to 700hp. Eg. Gt35 wod be best for your 500hp goal, but won't do a whole lot more very comfortably. T04z will get you 600hp at the wheels, but will be a fair bit more lag compared to a gt35. And still, a t04z won't get you to 700hp. The engine build involved is the same for those targets, but the different turbos will make for a completely different car to drive. If it were me I'd stick to 500hp as I still like a little bit of response.

Nitto oil pump would b my choice as well. Heaps of praise around the forums for them.

I think te bigger factor rather then what pistons and rods you choose is how well it's put together.

Is this car for street or track?

street and track lol and yer turbo choice is going thro my head right now

im thinking about the nitto range

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/370628-head/#findComment-5923694
Share on other sites

also just getting spool rods for the bottom

do u know arias are a good brand Part Num:ap332104 does it suit the neo or do u have the part number for CP's, je's, Ross ????

cheers

street and track lol and yer turbo choice is going thro my head right now

im thinking about the nitto range

for track work make sure an enlarged and gated sump is part of the parts list, even the best built engine wont last long without oil pressure.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/370628-head/#findComment-5925549
Share on other sites

i wouldnt be wasting to much money on the head, all you need to make that power is drop in cams, upgraded springs, and cam gears for fine tunning.

a GT35 turbo or equivalent would be all you need.

CP Pistons 9.0:1

argo pistons will be fine check with engine builder for specs.

you should also keep in mind the costs of block & crank prep work. around that $1500.

before you start sending any blocks away have a clutch pressure plate, flywheel and the harmonic balancer sent to the machine shop with the block & crank to be balanced all together.

i get my machine shop to supply my with the correct bearing to suit.

Be careful with piston choice if you are using a neo head as they have smaller combustion chambers.

Type B 260 deg poncams give a slightly lumpy idle but seem to make more power everywhere on a 25 so they should be fine.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/370628-head/#findComment-5926683
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • just an update to this, poor man pays twice  Tried sanding down the pulleys but it didnt do the trick. Chucked another second hand alternator in the na car which I got for free off my mate and its fixed the squelling. Must have been unlucky with the bearings.    As for my turbo car, I managed to pick up a cwc rb alternator conversion bracket + LS alternator for 250 off marketplace, looked to be in really good nick. Installed it , started the car and its not charging the battery.... ( Im not good with auto elec stuff so im not sure if this was all I needed to do but I verified such by using a multimeter on the battery when the engine was running and I was only getting 12.2v )   I had to modify the earth strap for the new LS alternator , factory earth strap was a 10mm bolt which did not fit the bolt on the LS alternator which was double the size so I cut it off , went to repco bought some ring terminals that fit, crimped it onto the old earth strap and bolted it up to the alternator , started the car and same issue. Ran like shit and was reading 12.2 at the battery.  For a "plug and play" advertised kit thats not very plug and play but alas.  My question is , am I missing something ? Ive been reading that some people recommend upgrading the stock 80 amp alternator fuse to a 140 amp but I dont see how that would stop the alternator charging especially at idle not under load.  Regardless ive pulled it out and am going to get it bench tested by an auto elec tomorrow but it would be handy to know if ive missed something silly or have done something wrong.   
    • My wild guess is that you have popped off an intake pipe....check all of the hoses between the turbo and the throttle for splits or loose clamps.
    • Awesome, thanks for sharing!
    • To provide more specific help, more information is needed. What Android screen? What is its wiring diagram? Does the car's wiring have power at any required BAT and ACC wires, and is the loom's earth good?
    • So, now all you need to do is connect the 2 or 3x 12v feeds into the unit to permanent 12v, ACC 12V and IGN 12V that you can find in the spot behind the stereo, and the earth, and then it will switch on with the car.
×
×
  • Create New...