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M35 Boost Bleed Valve

Sage222

By Sage222,
in Four Door Family & Wagoneers

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Sage222
Sage222

hmm you could be right.. though seems odd even at that.. 5th gear at 80kmh at 12psi still should haul i would have thought.. tho maybe not.. will knock it back into 4th and try again

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bigkevracer Grand Master

bigkevracer

Posted
Posted

Only reason why Haltech came up is that's what the tuner suggested, and if it's got local support I was willing to look at it.

Cihan is sounding like a good option, or I'll see how Dunc goes with Willall. As long as someone local can fix/retune it.

andy65b Veteran

andy65b

Posted
Posted

Haltech option is a new unit which works with 350Zs, so they figure it'll work with VQ25s using the same trigger pattern. I have a quote for $500-1000, but no guarantees it'll work.

Be vary wary... last time I heard that comment "it works on a 350z, it should work on VQ25DET" it cost Jetwreck a lot of wasted money.

The motors in the 350Z and the NM35's are different and so is the ECU.

My word of advice is.... unless they have done it before (and you have seen the results) don't belive them.. they all lie..

ironpaw Veteran

ironpaw

Posted
Posted

Be vary wary... last time I heard that comment "it works on a 350z, it should work on VQ25DET" it cost Jetwreck a lot of wasted money.

The motors in the 350Z and the NM35's are different and so is the ECU.

My word of advice is.... unless they have done it before (and you have seen the results) don't belive them.. they all lie..

True. reminds me of the guy in UK who was so confident that he could flash our ECU with the ROM they use in the 350Z...

showed him the pin out for our ECU and he said no can do!

iamhe77 Grand Master

iamhe77

Posted
Posted

Haltech 350z Platinum was used as a piggyback on a VQ25det Stagea very early on (3-4 years ago).

I believe it is a standalone unit on a manual 350z/V35

Results were a bit meh... but only mod was a cat-back as far as I can remember

bigkevracer Grand Master

bigkevracer

Posted
Posted

They're talking this: http://www.haltech.com.au/index.php/product/platinum-sprint-series/platinum-sprint-500

But considering I picked up an Emanage for a third of the price, they haven't given me a good reason to use the Haltech. Sure, if it takes over everything instead of doing the addition/subtraction table, that sounds good. But if you get a tuner who knows what they're doing I can't imagine there'd be a remarkable difference.

Sunkist Grand Master

Sunkist

Posted
Posted

your running 25psi now?? ffs.. surely the factory internals wont do that for long! :)

you'd be suprised.

lol

im sitting at around 22psi. scotts somewhere at 25psi.

ethanol is one hell of a drug

scotty nm35 Grand Master

scotty nm35

Posted
Posted

Haha, my boost peak is 1.92 bar according to the informeter. :whistling:

The issue isnt boost but air volume and this turbo blows a lot of air. Still a fair bit in the old girl but the engine has been running at over 20 psi for two years now, as well as burning the ethanol.

  • 2 weeks later...
Sage222 Rising Star

Sage222

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Posted

Ok so i am keen though i have just had a look though no idea where to begin so i photoshopped a pic :)

boost.jpg

Here is my engine bay. Remember i have LPG so may look a bit different!

Now number 1 is the hitachi boost controller.. now that has a single air line to it from underneath the intercooler pipe. from there number 5 runs out of the controller and splits into 2.. one section running to number 2 and the other into a much bigger part of the loom that disappears from view.

As you can see number 2 then splits off 2 more times in 2 different directions.. and god knows what 6 and 7 do!

So what exactly do i do to hook up a bleed valve?

i know i can simply cut the air line to the controller and put the valve in between.. though id like to remove the factory unit altogether.

Little help please :)

Sunkist Grand Master

Sunkist

Posted
Posted

Ok so i am keen though i have just had a look though no idea where to begin so i photoshopped a pic :)

boost.jpg

Here is my engine bay. Remember i have LPG so may look a bit different!

Now number 1 is the hitachi boost controller.. now that has a single air line to it from underneath the intercooler pipe. from there number 5 runs out of the controller and splits into 2.. one section running to number 2 and the other into a much bigger part of the loom that disappears from view.

As you can see number 2 then splits off 2 more times in 2 different directions.. and god knows what 6 and 7 do!

So what exactly do i do to hook up a bleed valve?

i know i can simply cut the air line to the controller and put the valve in between.. though id like to remove the factory unit altogether.

Little help please :)

1 is a boost sensor not the controller.

6/7is th fuel regs.

your stock boost solenoid is on the right which is out of the pic.

if you want come around to mine and ill hook it up for you.

under '1' plug theres a hose, the bleed valve taps into that

Jetwreck Grand Master

Jetwreck

Posted
Posted (edited)

thanks for info Aaron! might take you up on that offer! i am going for work for the next 10 days will hit you up when i get back :)

Also the intake baffle (the dick that hangs off the intake) anyone remove it? any gains?

yup I removed it with my old standard intake....didn't notice any difference.

btw....I found this boost tee to be the best out of all the manual ones I have tried.

http://www.ebay.com....7#ht_500wt_1156

Edited by Jetwreck
Sunkist Grand Master

Sunkist

Posted
Posted

thanks for info Aaron! might take you up on that offer! i am going for work for the next 10 days will hit you up when i get back :)

Also the intake baffle (the dick that hangs off the intake) anyone remove it? any gains?

all good man just shoot me a pm..

no gains from removing the baffle. no sound change either.. if u want u can remove it but not much point

and do you have a boost gauge yet?

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