Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi,

just pick up my R34GTR VSPEC and as usual I like to replace all the fluid in the car just for a peace of mind !! jsut wanna second opionion from you GTR gurus on what oil to use ?

things such as

- Gear Box ?

- All Drive line and engine ??

- any thing I need to look out for ??

cheers guys

any help will be much appreciate it !!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/370734-just-bought-r34gtr-vspec-ii/
Share on other sites

A R34 GTR, being a newer RB26 then the R33's and R32's, you can use a full Synthetic base oil.

I use Mobil 10W 40 at them moment.

Motul / Castrol are others I have heard run well.

I am not sure which brand of gear box oil to use, cause my mechanic has always done it for me.

I believe Motul make a good oil for gear boxes.

Here is what I did when first got my GTR:

Oil

Oil Filter

Fuel Filter

Spark Plugs

Battery

Radiator Coolant Flush

New Timing Belt

New Brake Pads / Rotors

Drive it till your next service and replace whatever needs replacing.

what brands are not as important as the type of oil and its specs.

the transmission and transfer case of 34r's are sensitive to what oils are used. the transmission oil must be automatic transmission oil ( i used royal purple automatic transmission oil suited for supra getrag which is the same gearbox as ours)

transfer oil has to be genuine nissan Dmatic.

My best advice is to ensure u take your GTR to a place that works on these cars and has very good knowledge of them. It will save u alot of headache later down the track

Enjoy your car! Just seeing it parked in my garage still puts a smile on face, a year on!

J-R32 Covered it well, the Matic-D oil for your transfer case is not overly expensive so you can't go wrong using what Nissan recommend for that.

As for the Transmission another oil that gets good reviews is Castrol Transmax Z, which is a Full synthetic Dexron® III type automatic transmission fluid and is available from Super Cheap Auto at a reasonable price. (I think from memory about $75 for 5 litres when on special).

Edited by thatlbeme

Diffs I haven't done yet but will be getting advice from our local Nissan dealer as there is some confusion as to whether the vspecs need 80w90 Limited Slip Diff oil or just plain 80w90 diff oil.

Engine oil weight that is recommended is 10w40 and I always use Fully Synthetic Oil.

Just be carefull if you take it to a mechanic who isn't familiar with the R34 GTR's as he might not be aware that the Transmission is a Getrag and requires Auto Trans oil as opposed to the R33 GTR's and R32 GTR's and R34 non GTR's which are not Getrags and use 75w90 gearbox oil.

Edited by thatlbeme

Attached the Service Data page from R34 service manual.

The" Nissan Mission Oil BNR34 special" oil that Nissan recommend for the Getrag gearbox is very very expensive and will most likely have to be imported from Japan and as many claim is only a rebadged Esso oil anyway as per this discussion http://www.supraforu...o-Toyota-Nissan. And also realise the attached page is from a non vspec and that is why they recommend API GL-5 diff oil front and rear for the diffs but I think the vspecs need a Limited Slip Diff oil.

post-78962-0-20836700-1310480554_thumb.jpg

Edited by thatlbeme

Attached the Service Data page from R34 service manual.

The" Nissan Mission Oil BNR34 special" oil that Nissan recommend for the Getrag gearbox is very very expensive and will most likely have to be imported from Japan and as many claim is only a rebadged Esso oil anyway as per this discussion http://www.supraforu...o-Toyota-Nissan. And also realise the attached page is from a non vspec and that is why they recommend API GL-5 diff oil front and rear for the diffs but I think the vspecs need a Limited Slip Diff oil.

thanks heaps IAN !! and thank you to anyone that helps !!

wen

  • 2 weeks later...

Transmaxz if fine in the transfer case and if your picky you can go the expensive oem stuff (toyota v160) which i used but i used transmax in the transfer case

engine oil is nothing but motul, most will agree that 300v or 8100xcess

Congrats on the new car, im sure you will have many years of pleasure

-Johnny

thanks heaps johnny.

I end up getting the Nissan Matic D oil from nissan. and it cost around $80 for 5L Bottle so its all good.

as for the GTR I am I will try to enjiy it before I get bored of it !!

cheers

wen

Transmaxz if fine in the transfer case and if your picky you can go the expensive oem stuff (toyota v160) which i used but i used transmax in the transfer case

engine oil is nothing but motul, most will agree that 300v or 8100xcess

Congrats on the new car, im sure you will have many years of pleasure

-Johnny

I have run royal purple 75-90 in the getrag feels a little knotchy when cold but comes good when it warms up.. According to the redline site they recommend super lightweight for the getrag, but i have heard mixed reviews about their oils in the getrag box.. can anyone shed some light on this??

^^^ agree that the getrag is expensive to repair and replace, unlike an r32-33 gearbox where you can get a replacment easy.

go the genuine stuff, toyota v160 is very expensive but my preferred choice, i wont deviate.

there was a member on here 'snowy' i think who track raced his a blew a couple with redline, so he went for royal purple; he said that was good stuff and held up to harsh conditions.

Ive been looking a motul oils recently, they seem to make a race-spec auto trans fluid so ill look into that when its time to change - will be many years from now as i drive like a granny and have only done 6000kms on the new oil lolz

-Johnny

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yea that’s why I said ima test them with multimeter and see the reads.
    • Only at idle. Isn’t a problem when rev it seems.
    • @Haggerty This seems silly to ask, but are you confident in your ability to tune the Haltech?  
    • Next on the to-do list was an oil and filter change. Nothing exciting to add here except the oil filter is in a really stupid place (facing the engine mount/subframe/steering rack). GReddy do a relocation kit which puts it towards the gearbox, I would have preferred towards the front but there's obviously a lot more stuff there. Something I'll have to look at for the next service perhaps. First time using Valvoline oil, although I can't see it being any different to most other brands Nice... The oil filter location... At least the subframe wont rust any time soon I picked up a genuine fuel filter, this is part of the fuel pump assembly inside the fuel tank. Access can be found underneath the rear seat, you'll see this triangular cover Remove the 3x plastic 10mm nuts and lift the cover up, pushing the rubber grommet through The yellow fuel line clips push out in opposite directions, remove these completely. The two moulded fuel lines can now pull upwards to disconnect, along with the wire electrical plug. There's 8x 8mm bolts that secure the black retaining ring. The fuel pump assembly is now ready to lift out. Be mindful of the fuel hose on the side, the hose clamp on mine was catching the hose preventing it from lifting up The fuel pump/filter has an upper and lower section held on by 4 pressure clips. These did take a little bit of force, it sounded like the plastic tabs were going to break but they didn't (don't worry!) The lower section helps mount the fuel pump, there's a circular rubber gasket/grommet/seal thing on the bottom where the sock is. Undo the hose clip on the short fuel hose on the side to disconnect it from the 3 way distribution pipe to be able to lift the upper half away. Don't forget to unplug the fuel pump too! There's a few rubber O rings that will need transferring to the new filter housing, I show these in the video at the bottom of this write up. Reassembly is the reverse Here's a photo of the new filter installed, you'll be able to see where the tabs are more clearing against the yellow OEM plastic Once the assembly is re-installed, I turned the engine over a few times to help build up fuel pressure. I did panic when the car stopped turning over but I could hear the fuel pump making a noise. It eventually started and has been fine since. Found my 'lucky' coin underneath the rear seat too The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uLJ65pmQt44&t=6s
    • It was picked up on the MOT/Inspection that the offside front wheel bearing had excessive play along with the ball joint. It made sense to do both sides so I sourced a pair of spare IS200 hubs to do the swap. Unfortunately I don't have any photos of the strip down but here's a quick run down. On the back of the hub is a large circular dust cover, using a flat head screw driver and a mallet I prised it off. Underneath will reveal a 32mm hub nut (impact gun recommended). With the hub nut removed the ABS ring can be removed (I ended up using a magnetic pick up tool to help). Next up is to remove the stub axle, this was a little trickier due to limited tools. I tried a 3 leg puller but the gap between the hub and stub axle wasn't enough for the legs to get in and under. Next option was a lump hammer and someone pulling the stub axle at the same time. After a few heavy hits it released. The lower bearing race had seized itself onto the stub axle, which was fine because I was replacing them anyway. With the upper bearing race removed and the grease cleaned off they looked like this The left one looked pristine inside but gave us the most trouble. The right one had some surface rust but came apart in a single hit, figure that out?! I got a local garage to press the new wheel bearings in, reassemble was the opposite and didn't take long at all. Removing the hub itself was simple. Starting with removing the brake caliper, 2x 14mm bolts for the caliper slider and 2x 19mm? for the carrier > hub bolts. I used a cable tie to secure the caliper to the upper arm so it was out of the way, there's a 10mm bolt securing the ABS sensor on. With the brake disc removed from the hub next are the three castle nuts for the upper and lower ball joints and track rod end. Two of these had their own R clip and one split pin. A few hits with the hammer and they're released (I left the castle nuts on by a couple of turns), the track rod ends gave me the most grief and I may have nipped the boots (oops). Fitting is the reversal and is very quick and easy to do. The lower ball joints are held onto the hub by 2x 17mm bolts. The castle nut did increase in socket size to 22mm from memory (this may vary from supplier) The two front tyres weren't in great condition, so I had those replaced with some budget tyres for the time being. I'll be replacing the wheels and tyres in the future, this was to get me on the road without the worry of the police hassling me.
×
×
  • Create New...