Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I need some help.

Haven't driven my car in awhile n forgot to start it in couple weeks, hence battery died.

Tried to jump start it and it wouldn't kick over, it was a fairly new battery so we kept trying for about 10 minutes.

It just kept ticking and didn't kick over and then finally it started.

But ... now the sound system or screen wont turn on, and the aircon wont adjust or anything. The aircon just sits on automatic and stays on.

all other electrics seem to be fine.

what do you think the problem is?

any feedback will be appreciated!

thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/370943-help/
Share on other sites

How did you jump start it?

First place would be to check fuses. I can understand how the sound system & the air con not working they are on the same circuit. Its weird how the screen has stoped working at the same time. Have you tried all the dash buttons? Is the screen on and just showing black or is it stuffed.

Those things all run off circuits less than 12v it dosent take much to spike them.

Did you accidentlt touch the 12v to the chassis?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/370943-help/#findComment-5913720
Share on other sites

I need some help.

Haven't driven my car in awhile n forgot to start it in couple weeks, hence battery died.

Tried to jump start it and it wouldn't kick over, it was a fairly new battery so we kept trying for about 10 minutes.

It just kept ticking and didn't kick over and then finally it started.

But ... now the sound system or screen wont turn on, and the aircon wont adjust or anything. The aircon just sits on automatic and stays on.

all other electrics seem to be fine.

what do you think the problem is?

any feedback will be appreciated!

thanks

Do you have a reverse camera?

this same thing happened to be a few years back.

the issue was with the wiring in the boot leading to the camera

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/370943-help/#findComment-5914966
Share on other sites

hey thanks for the feedback.

um jump start just with cables and another car and pretty sure i didnt touch anything except the battery.. Just kept trying to turn the car on and it kept ticking and not kicking over, after about 10 minutes it did.

The tv screen is just blank, pretty sure it's not even on. All the buttons on the centre dash don't work. The aircon just sits on auto.

and no i don't have a reverse cam.

I thought it could be a fuse, have to check that.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/370943-help/#findComment-5915285
Share on other sites

Or you could just do the dash conversion with a local radio and never have to fix the bose again. Also is your dvd rom under the glovebox booting up. That would input the screen.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/370943-help/#findComment-5916279
Share on other sites

  • 2 years later...

Was there a solution to this? My 2002 V35 has done this once before but corrected itself soon after. Today it has stayed in this state (no radio, none of the buttons do anything and aircon on cold / auto). Thanks, Ben

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/370943-help/#findComment-7025595
Share on other sites

Chris, does changing the radio mean that I won't have air conditioning? If they are connected now (ie the radio is making the air conditioning not work) how will the air conditioning react when there is no (factory) radio at all? Ben

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/370943-help/#findComment-7025785
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
    • ..this is the current state of that port. I appreciate the info help (and the link to the Earls thing @Duncan). Though going by that it seems like 1/4 then BSP'ing it and using a bush may work. I don't know where I'd be remote mounting the pressure sender... to... exactly. I assume the idea here is that any vibration is taken up by the semiflexible/flexible hose itself instead of it leveraging against the block directly. I want to believe a stronger, steel bush/adapter would work, but I don't know if that is engineeringly sound or just wishful thinking given the stupendous implications of a leak/failure in this spot. What are the real world risks of dissimilar metals here? It's a 6061 Aluminum block, and I'm talking brass or steel or SS adapters/things.
×
×
  • Create New...