Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey, just got a simple question regarding the cigarette lighter of my S2 R33 GTS-t.

At the moment, I've got 5 gauges hooked up from the IGN wire of the ciggy lighter (boost, oil temp, oil pressure etc.) and I just purchased a iPhone car charger/FM transmitter which plugs into the cigaretter lighter.

So, my question is, how much power and current can the ciggy lighter handle before I start blowing fuses or buring things out?

Cheers.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/370975-max-load-from-ciggy-lighter/
Share on other sites

check your ciggarette lighter fuse for rating , should be 15 amps which is Nissan standard size

so keep adding gauges and check current rating when running with multimeter to check for overload .

whatever the load you require, DO NOT replace the fuse to a higher rated fuse, i have seen countless fires in 4wd's because of people placing larger fuses in the system to accomodate the load when in fact its also the wiring that needs to be looked at. Too much load in the wiring system usually ends in a melted wire onto the chassis and fire, electrical damage and potentially a fatal accident if you are in motion

whatever the load you require, DO NOT replace the fuse to a higher rated fuse, i have seen countless fires in 4wd's because of people placing larger fuses in the system to accomodate the load when in fact its also the wiring that needs to be looked at. Too much load in the wiring system usually ends in a melted wire onto the chassis and fire, electrical damage and potentially a fatal accident if you are in motion

This is pretty much the rule with anything electrical

a ≤ b ≤ c

a = Circuit full load current

b = Protection device rating

c = Current carrying capacity of cable

I don't imagine a gauge will draw that much so I'd that circuit should be able to take it :)

  • 2 weeks later...

id say ur gunna be well under the amp limit for that system but FYI stressed cables dont just melt ( unless extremely stressed)

if ur unsure about a cables capacity keep an eye on it, they heat up slowly if they are running too much current so you wont notice anything until the heat builds too much for the insulation then BANG... :O

just a thought rolleyes.gif

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • When you crank your car, and hit it with a timing light, can you see a steady crank timing?
    • Oh, forgot to add, A few months ago I was getting mixture codes and the car was using crap loads of fuel. You could smell the unburned fuel in the exhaust, it was crazy strong. Economy was over 17.5 l/100 and usually around 19. I smoked the engine and found a leaky CCV hose which I replaced and then I replaced my two pre cat O2 sensors, I also replaced the MAF. This fixed my mixture codes and improved my exonomy but I'm still 14 - 15 l/100 when pottering about town so something is still amiss. Throttle response is much better and it has more pep but I'd like to know why it's still so thirsty (and I'm hoping that whatever it is gives me a bit more poke).    
    • Car is on factory injectors/z32 maf/ q45 throttle body/ z32 ecu with nistune 
    • Hello all, currently finishing up a rb25 swap into my s14. Having issues with starting, car has spark (confirmed by pulling a plug and watching it spark), has fuel(confirmed by checking pulse/voltage at injectors all spark plugs are soaked in fuel). Car cranks over and pops into the exhaust with a heavy fuel smell but no attempt to start or run, I have torn the timing cover off and triple confirmed timing, turned the CAS in multiple spots both directions, attempted to start with coolant temp and maf unplugged, checked my fuel lines and made sure they weren’t backwards, checked voltage at cas/injectors/coilpacks, made sure all the grounds in the harness are connected and added a few grounding straps (1 from chassis to block, 1 from chassis to head, and 1 from chassis to igniter chip) I am getting stumped here. As a last ditch effort I made a full grounding harness tonight that’s going to run from the battery and add an extra ground from the battery onto the coil pack harness/igniter chip/ intake manifold/ Wiring specialties harness ground/ and alternator. I’m hoping maybe the grounding harness will fix it here but posting here to see if anyone has any other ideas on what else I can check. My fuel pressure is unknown right gauge will be here tomorrow.  IMG_3206.mov
    • yeah I was shocked when I checked my spare OEM on and as below that's how they come from Nissan. (side interesting note new NEO gearbox and replacement park lack the brass bush on the tips and its just all alloy) unsure about damage to the box currently back at 1110 to be pulled down/inspected and selector fork replaced as he built it previously and given the never before seen failure on his billet forks he is replacing it under warranty. He said he has used always OEM the keyway tab without issue for years so it could be an unlucky coincidence. I did talk to him about the sharp corners and stress concentration too. Re: hard shifts i got 7+ years out of the OEM one and the fork itself failed not the keyway. so could be bad luck as I said or an age thing + heat cycles in box and during fabrication of billet?
×
×
  • Create New...