Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys, I am from the U.S. and am in need of some info. I have a rb26 converted to a single precision 6265 turbo, and precision 880cc low impediance injectors. I am trying to tune my power fc d-jetro with datalogit and have ran into a few issues with my tuner. He is familiar with AEM and hasnt really messed with anything quite like this. I am not running any o2 sensors simpley a AEM UEGO, and have tapped the 2 3.5bar map sensors inito the runners of number 3 and 4 after the throttle boddies. This car was a ground up build and pretty much stock motor besides cam gears, headgasket and studs. My questions are as follows.

1. How do I conver the map axis to load and rpm instead of seeing it as P and N?

2. Can anyone email me a base map for 880cc injectors?

3. I used my latency values given for stock injectors and did the conversion for the new larger ones and the msec on them and still my tuner has issues with it.

4. How does the self learning idle work? Do I need the stock o2 sensors functioning at this time? Pretty much at idle it runs 10.0's pig rich and when we try to lean it out either on the injector mapping or injector tables it starts to surge.

My tuner said if he can get a map to download straight to the car with 880cc injectors he can build off that but I am at my wits end and am about to sell it all and go Vipec or AEM haha! Thanks for any help you guys can give.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/371017-power-fc-d-jetro-newb/
Share on other sites

email me your setup and i will email something that will get you started. The djetro is one of the best rb26 ecu's around,

I would go as far saying that if your new to PFC and VIPEC / LINK the PFC in its std layout is better than the VIPEC / LINK (unless of course your an experienced LINK VIPEC tuner)

ive found on the rb26 its best to use the 5d fuel maps to get any decent type of fuel economy with a big HP setup... all due to the single map sensor picks resolution seems to have more common areas (in cruise) than the PFC's dual map sensor. (that said i would have a Link in my own car because of the extra maps available to me).

[email protected]

stock n1 rb26

precision 6265

precision 880cc injectors

The following are the latency @ voltage values for our 880cc injectors:Open Time Latency (ms) @ Voltage --> 1.63ms @ 8.7v 1.00ms @ 10.4v .80ms @ 12.2v .70ms @ 13.9v .60ms @ 15.6v .56ms @ 17.4v .56ms @ 19.1v .53ms @ 20.9vIf you need to convert the latency values to microseconds, move the decimal 3 places to the right. For example the first value would be 1630 microseconds @ 8.7 Volts.

I would like someone to walk me through how to do the self idle also. right now my car idles good but 10.0's very rich. When we played with the injector mapping it started to lean slightly but began surging bad. Will this happen if we do not do the idle process? Also How does the power fc know how to idle with the 02 sensors no longer being installed on the car? No problems status I am actually about to chuck this damn thing and get vipec seeing power fc is not common where I am from and already have money in it and a tuner. Just trying to get some where with it or get rid of it.

Edited by lloydxmas

the powerfc is able to idle with working 02 sensors or no 02 sensors, or 02 feedback turned off

depending on the powerfc version and if IDLE-IG is enabled under function select, its usually hard locked to 15deg or 20deg (depending on rb25 or rb26)

you cannot enable the self idle learn feature

it is a once only feature that is enabled automatically when you perform DATA INIT

then next time you turn the car on it runs through the 30 minute self idle procedure

if you skip this procedure, f**k around with the car, drive or it have mangled idle air control, mangled sensors, mangled intake etc then its toast and you must DATA INIT again and re-do the procedure

if you mangle it the usual outcome is instant stall when you tap the throttle or wonky idle

that is, hunting all over the place (rpm stall / rpm hunt) not AFR hunting

My tuner is comfortable with AEM and only used power fc one time years ago. Basically my car was a ground up restoration and so only thing used still on it are iacv and a few other sensors. We want a base map that way we can eliminate the surge issue to the tune or sensor. Also the AFR does hunt when we lean the injectors out too not just the idle. When we leave it like it sits its rich (10.0's) but idles and revs smooth.

Edited by lloydxmas

emailed you a few starters. First one is good for mid 400rwkw"s second was around mid 300"s

I take no responsibility for them (as they were spot on in the respective cars but on anything else they are just good bases to start from as no two setups are the same) and i have sent them on the proviso they are not to be shared with anyone but your tuner....

the powerfc is able to idle with working 02 sensors or no 02 sensors, or 02 feedback turned off

depending on the powerfc version and if IDLE-IG is enabled under function select, its usually hard locked to 15deg or 20deg (depending on rb25 or rb26)

you cannot enable the self idle learn feature

it is a once only feature that is enabled automatically when you perform DATA INIT

then next time you turn the car on it runs through the 30 minute self idle procedure

if you skip this procedure, f**k around with the car, drive or it have mangled idle air control, mangled sensors, mangled intake etc then its toast and you must DATA INIT again and re-do the procedure

if you mangle it the usual outcome is instant stall when you tap the throttle or wonky idle

that is, hunting all over the place (rpm stall / rpm hunt) not AFR hunting

a little OT but do you know if the self learn data is saved and loaded with tune files or is it completely seperate and unchanged until a data init?

as far as i can tell it stored on the powerfc unit and is not part of the tune

ie you cant copy the self idle learnt data - if there is data, if that makes sense

if you buy a brand new powerfc

connect it to your car

turn key to ON but dont start it and copy someone else's tune over the top or tune it accordingly

then start the car, you still have to do self idle procured

the only way to start it is to DATA INIT

and then next key on self idle learning procedure

thats the 30 minutes of normal idle, 10 minute air con, 10 minute demister etc

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, nah. I had the actuator rod off it today. The arm will not move at all. Neither out, nor in. Yeah, you'd think so, but I've been thinking about that. Even when the actuator rod fell all the way off at the beginning of this saga, it would build more boost and faster in lower gears than it would in higher gears, and you'd think that that was the opposite of what should happen. But I strongly suspect that there is a thing with the gearing getting the revs to rise faster, that there must be some transient effect with the gas flow rate rising quickly, that you don't get with the more steady state case of the higher gears. Keep in mind - the gate is not shut in either of my weirdnesses. So things are not "normal". We normally think about a turbo spooling up (below the wastegate target) with the gate shut. I have all sorts of mental models running now where the gate is a little bit open, and having it stuck open allowing gas out while it should be going through the turbine has all sorts of weird effects (in these mental models). I'm thinking in the higher gears, the ex mani pressure builds to the point where enough gases spill out the wastegate to just prevent the pressure rising much more at all, or just creeping up, all the whole the revs are increasing and getting closer to the point where a gear shift becomes necessary.
    • Is it possibly wastegate actuator itself is sticking, or even the rod to flapper? Otherwise I reckon things are getting a bit rusty/worn   Also odd it won't boost in 3rd to 5th, but will in 1st, I'd expect the other way around with it slightly open as there's more time on your way to redline for it to spin up
    • Does anyone know ow what these two plugs are for and if they should be unplugged? Just put the dash back together and can't remember if these were plugged in before or unplugged! (Blue and white plugs) 🤦🏽‍♂️
    • Did some FASTing ...got the impression that the actual part# was a moot point ; seems all of these hardlines for coolant are discontinued/NLA... like, I take it you're after the hardline that bolts onto to the manifold...that's NLA according to amayama & nengun .... ...just to clear up some confusion, they typically mounted the AAC valve to the intake manifold somewhere near a coolant passage, so the body of the valve heats up & holds it open when engine's up to temp - no coolant flows through the valve, it's a mechanical, thermal connection.
    • And now the bloody flapper is jammed slightly open. Lazy as all f**k in 3rd-5th (very hard to convince it to make much boost before you run out of revs), but will make 12 psi in 1st, which shouldb't be possible with a 5 psi spring and controller set to <10 psi. Methinks I'm lucky it jammed where it did, rather than fully closed. It's actually a well weird situation. Careful examination of what's happening in the back of that housing when the gearbox comes out and all the other stuff (injectors, AFM retune) is supposed to be done, next week.
×
×
  • Create New...