Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys, fellow member said i should write up a tutorial so i will

i bought myself some DTM Rush wheels that were oddly coloured, so i decided to paint them!

what you need

-primer

-sand paper grit really depends how much crap you want to take off. i just used the one pictured as the surface was pretty good.

- masking tape

-PAINT!

-clear!

now the paint and clear can come in rattle cans and if you take your sweet time, they will come up looking great!

b3a08dce.jpg

73d1f28d.jpg

Step 1

wash the wheels, dry and sand away!

should look like.. err sanded wheels..

now some of the wheels had some chips which i just filled with some filler and sanded down. unfortunately i didnt take pics of this step.

7c399f40.jpg

Step 2

wash the rim again and wipe it down with some turps

them, PRIMER TIME!

2605a8af.jpg

2a8bb9f6.jpg

allow to dry and if everything looks the goods, (no running, no imperfections) move onto step 3!

Step 3

TIME2PAINT!

using the colour of your choice, (i used metalic cyan :) ) spray the wheel, i started with the barrels first and then moved onto the spokes. doing even sweeps with the spray leaving a nice even finish (though i did add a little too much in areas but hey its my first time!)

89808679.jpg

i added another 2 coats per rim. went through about 3 cans.

Step 4

left to dry for a couple hours i came back and started on the clear coat!

45781232.jpg

55b231eb.jpg

pretty much the same as the paint. did 3 coats too

Step 5

kick back and wait!

should look something like this

ebaf95ac.jpg

Hope this helps. all the stuff was bought from super cheap auto. each rim took me about half an hour to prep.

Cheers!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/371218-how-to-paint-your-wheels/
Share on other sites

no worries. forgot to add, tape up the valves of course

and when dry. tape the lips so you wont chip the paint while putting on tires

or you could simply just break the bead and leave the tyre on the rim but you would be able to spray all of the lip since the tyre wouldn't be touching it.

Mighty car mods just posted video on painting rims :P

haha yeh jonno was telling me when i was doing mine

or you could simply just break the bead and leave the tyre on the rim but you would be able to spray all of the lip since the tyre wouldn't be touching it.

that could be done too.

nice green badge kent

  • 5 months later...

i must be honest they look great , i wonder if the paint/prep used by crash repairs will provide a harder longer wearing surface ?

Yeah 2 pack paint will dry harder is less prone to chipping and especially peeling when replacing tyres etc. Other than that great work man really good looking result. Next time get some red scotchbrite to get into all the little corners where you cant reach with sandpaper to scuff the surface right up before primer which will make them less likely to peel in those areas.

  • 2 weeks later...

Ok probs going to sound like a stupid question but how do you remove the tyres from the rims and how do you get them back on... i know a bit of a noob question.

you need to "break the bead", which is usually done with a press (if you have access to a welder you can make one, or you can even make one out of wood, but it won't work as well and may break). then it's a case of using tyre levers to get them off. it's not that hard. then you use tyre levers and a rubber mallet to get them back on, but you run the risk of scratching the rims.

or you can pay a tyre shop to do it.

Good write up and fantastic result, well done.

If you get a bit of orange peel from the clear coat - etc, or between layers - you can sand it back with 1200 then 2000 grit wet and dry to smooth it out.

With the clear, if following the above step - you can then buff it up to a magic shine afterwards.

  • 3 weeks later...

Im assuming this is best done with tyres off, but are there any magic taping tricks i could use to cover the tyres or will it be easier and better if i do involve taking the tyres off

I'm about to do my Works XT7's and am not only taking the tyres off but will be removing the valves too so we can spray the whole rim.... There is no reason you cant tape them up but if its a skyline then tyre changes should be as regular as fuel stops so just do it then :laugh:

There is no reason you cant tape them up but if its a skyline then tyre changes should be as regular as fuel stops so just do it then :laugh:

Touche, im yet to wear them in yet though :P so ill wait till thats done, and by then Ill know if I really want to paint them

good write up and they look good for now but unfortunatly uve used a cheap enamel and will look like crap in no time.i would recommend to anyone else doing this to use a 2 pak paint for a better finish and longer lasting results :thumbsup:

i was looking into getting mine Powder coated, Costs about $450 but i heard much much less likley to chip.

After seeing this though im going to grab my self some paint this weekend, Did you look into hiring a sand blaster? or getting them blasted first?

Not sure how good it will all stick to the existing paint, Or is the idea of the sand paper to leave it rough for the primer to grab hold?

Is ther much choice on clear coats? a more resitant one for stone ships ect.

By any chance did you see if they had a satin or semi gloss black?

  • 3 weeks later...

sand paper leaves it rough, i finished in a 600 grit paper wet and dry sanding

then etch primer with a proper gun and compressor

then used semi gloss black to spray my corolla rims

no clear coat

in perfect condition hasnt chipped at all.

cost me about 100 bucks in total

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Well, all the best with the new camry It was interesting to hear about the UK process, it is generally a lot more streamlined here with a shipping agent looking after all the import side (noting the exact final price can still be a surprise.....) and I've used a few different brokers on the japan (or US) side, and never had any trouble with any of them....luck of the draw I guess. You mentioned you didn't get the auction sheet (understandable since you bought it from a dealer, not auction), but I always try and get hold of that because they are pretty thorough. I've imported 2x R grade vehicles over the years and both were fine, repairs in Japan are pretty thorough compared to here in Oz.
    • BTW I measured the jack I have, it is 70mm at the saddle but you only have about 700 until it returns to 150mm high at the cylinder so it is good but no magic bullet.
    • My experience with Rising Sun Exports Before agreeing to the sale I tried to do as much research as I could (obviously), his Facebook reviews are 98% and he goes Live at least once or twice a week. I contacted 2 people in the UK who had used him for their imports, both had positive feedback. His explanation and talk through of the import process was thorough, answering any query no matter how stupid it was. It felt as soon as the money was sent, communication dropped off. I asked for shipping updates every 2 weeks or so, not wanting to pester him, he never had any updates. I wasn't informed the car had been dropped off at the port, I only found out by his Facebook story. I asked for the photos taken at the port, knowing he would need some for insurance purposes. I received a few 5 second clips and that's it. When asked again, he said his staff had them. Weeks later I asked again, he tells me he doesn't have any, but does have 50 photos from the original advert. I never received them. I eventually got the documents sent via WhatsApp after I mentioned the port was requesting them. I purchased a CarVX report, to find out the vehicle is a Grade R with recorded accident damage, first recorded in 2017 when it was first auctioned. He never told me the grade, then again I didn't ask. His response was "Grade R means nothing, it wasn't chassis damage". Still, I would have liked to have been informed about it. Jon prides himself on being open and honest when it comes to inspecting cars, it's his main job doing so at the auctions for customers. When the vehicle arrived in the UK I noticed a few little cosmetic issues. It's a 21 year old car so it wasn't going to be mint condition. The side skirts are cracked on each corner and the sealant is failing. The front grill on the bonnet/hood isn't secured very well, mounting studs are missing. Both minor things, but again, it would have been nice to be told. During a Facebook Live walk around video of the vehicle, he mentioned it has a front Whiteline anti roll bar/sway bar. While on the inspection ramp, I noticed the stock item has been installed. When first questioned, his response was "the ARB? Switched? Since when, it never had them". Since sending video and photo evidence I've not received a response. I'm probably being over critical of the overall condition of an old car, but all I wanted was honesty (which he claims to have). I'm aware I wasn't his only customer, he's busy doing XYZ but other reviews praise him for great communication with regular updates and photos, I felt I didn't receive the same treatment. 
    • I was able to get some underside photos while the car was on the ramp The suspension is all Altezza/IS200/IS300 so getting part's will hopefully be less of a headache
    • Welcome to my 2004 Toyota Mark ii IR-V Fortuna (series 2) With a 1JZ-GTE powerplant under the bonnet (hood) it'll give me plenty of scope for power upgrades. For those who aren't familiar with imports, the 1JZ-GTE is a 2.5L 6 cylinder VVTi engine with a single turbocharger. This has the factory R154 5 speed gearbox, along with a aftermarket 2 way LSD differential (brand unknown). Under the arches are a set of CST Zero 1 alloys, 18x9 +30 225/40 up front and 18x9.5 +15 265/35 on the rear. The car was quite low in Japan and there's evidence of the wheels catching the rolled arches/fenders. The tyre's aren't great so I'm in two minds whether to replace both or just the tyres and put up with the wider wheels on the rear. The car still uses stock brakes with the addition of some braided hoses. The exterior is stock with the exception of a BN Sports front bumper and a replacement Fortuna grill  Moving to the interior, the steering wheel has been replaced with a dished MOMO steering wheel (which will get swapped for my Momo Tuner for the time being) Defi Link Gauges are mounted above the climate controls and on the A pillar, the Oil Temp,Oil Pressure,Water Temp and Boost gauges should help with spirited and track driving  The stock seats have been replaced with some retrimmed Recaro bucket seats. Being a larger build these are a little snug, unfortunately the orange isn't for me so I'll look into replacing these down the line. Other modifications include a twin plate clutch, Blitz intercooler, Evolve alloy radiator, a stainless exhaust with decat, HKS EVC-S boost controller and coil overs
×
×
  • Create New...