Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

This EFI mob sound like the go, and I am planning a drop off-pick up situation. Happy for the experts to do their thing.

I read that VVT won't work unless I get a 300zx ecu??

You have an R34 and your new ecu is R34? It should run the VCT fine.

there's also east coast customs and toshi

toshi is a little different though, he tunes it on the road, meaning you drive around while he sits in the passenger seat and tells you what to do for most of the day. he's tuned 150+ rb engines and many other engines. prior to him doing tuning he also used to do some spirited street driving in japan.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/369646-toshi-will-coming-back-to-qld-in-30-th-november-this-monthfor-real-time-tune-on-road-r33-from-550/

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/210097-nistune-powerfc-fcon-remap-ecu-road-tune-and-dyno-tune-available-in-sydneysending-to-other-state-and-over-seas-also-abailable-now/

FOOLBOOST's dyno results:

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/55845-rb25-turbo-upgrade-all-dyno-results/page__st__720

Some other stuff abotu the process:

http://www.nissansilvia.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=497151

http://www.aus300zx.com/forum/showthread.php?t=315820

anyway that's enough before it looks like i'm trying to sell for him haha

  • 1 month later...

alright then i was wondering if its possible to dual map R34GTT using whatever ECU. im just trying to figure out if its possible because it would be a great way to save fuel and the engine because it would allow me to run it at an economical tune for normal days and race mode for whenever i need perfomance. I dont mind the price any suggestions. maybe ill should start my own topic.

im no expert.... but.....

The Nistune does a 5D multi layered bi directional tune for economy and power.

Its all the in Air flow meter and your right foot. Boost doesn't use more fuel if its tuned nice and lean. Or left in closed loop at low boost levels.

Required power levels uses more fuel....... regardless of air fuel ratio.

So what I am saying is.... drive everywhere at 200 hp at 14.7:1 and you will use exactly twice as much fuel as driving everywhere at 100 hp at 14.7:1

Try driving everywhere using 15 - 30 hp all the time....... use your right foot to keep it off boost and you will be surprised how good your fuel economy becomes.

well its a GT3037 it start to kick in at 2000rpm and kicks out at 4500rpm its a street turbo. So if i could avoid the early boost on an average day it would be great on my economy.

Lol so it "kicks out" at 4500rpm?

dual maps for "economy" and "power" are completely pointless as the perfect tune will give you the best of both. the only reason to ever run dual maps if for different fuel types or additives (nos etc).

get a decent tune (not just a full load tune like a lot of workshops do) and try to maintain a steady throttle position when cruising and you'll get good economy.

HYPED6, pretty spot on, it wont be exactly twice as much fuel (due to BSFC) but its close enough.

Can you please elaborate for me?

at different revs and loads the engine has different efficiencies. its most efficient at peak torque, which is why it produces the most force per revolution. obviously this varies with every engine but even with the same engine if you keep it at a constant rpm and go from 100hp output to 200hp output with the same AFR's (by opening the throttle further) your increasing chamber pressure, squish characteristics and timing (depending on the ignition map) which will all have an effect on the efficiency of the combustion. so whilst it isnt much you'd probably use slightly more than double going from 100hp to 200hp at the same revs and AFR's.

But, in the big scheme of things it doesnt really matter :nyaanyaa:

We can produce both powers at the same rev by adjusting the throttle plate.

Timing would be correct for the application at both loads.

If the AFR is the same fuel usage will be double.

However, I do believe I was caught up in the moment and using the word "exactly" may not bet totally correct.

There are many factors that come in to play like the difference in barometric pressure, air and fuel temp from the 2 events being 100hp and 200hp.

If measurable there would have to be some sort of variation.

The real concern is why your turbo is kicking out? I would be upset if my 3037 was doing that

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I'm normally copping my own abuse from neglecting my daily drivers. "Those suspension bushes will last a bit more", "Don't worry about the oil leak, just keep topping it up". The project cars I'm always doing things slowly on them as I'm wanting them to be done better, and neater, and nicer. Luckily I don't have to deal with 18 year old Matt's "Learning to wire" stuff in the project cars. And there's only one piece of wiring I'm displeased about in the Landcruiser, and it's about to be cut out... However, the box loads of parts that have been going through this place lately for the Landcruiser... Brake pads Brake Rotors Full handbrake overhaul Wheel Bearings Seals Swivel hubs Steering Boxes Half the suspension joints Shocks Air bags (Ones to go in the rear springs for towing) Water pump Timing kit Lower timing case Harmonic Balancer Radiator Lots of other little seals and shits Gas struts for the bonnet New power window switches And god knows what else I've forgotten... Ha ha ha I have my fingers crossed the pinion seals don't start leaking on the diffs, that the transfer case doesn't leak, and the gearbox input shaft doesn't leak, nor the rear main seal. As they're about the only seals I haven't replaced in the driveline! I'm seriously eyeing off buying new caliper rebuild kits front and rear brake calipers... I'll probably recheck all the valve clearances soon too, and hopefully, it should be all good and sweet to haul some long distance trips again!
    • Every time I pull my 3x gauges out of the console and see the crack-addict way that I did the wiring, and I just can't bring myself to tear it all apart and "make it nice", because it is currently working. In fact, the last time I was in there I probably made it worse.
    • The best part is when you own the car long enough that you look back and find your OWN ham fisted amateur shit!
    • The annoying part about neglect, is when you start to replace one thing, and find ten more broken things. Ham fisted monkey repairs you normally only find out about when trying to do something unrelated! Ha ha   Neglect you can kind of anticipate the huge costs to fix it all. Ham fistedness is normally a shock the first time your work on a new old car, as everything "looked" good before.
    • For DBA, check out their guide table here. https://dba.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2023/01/Direct_Replacement-Guide-2021.2.pdf   Additionally they have some other guides and info on how to make sure you choose the right pad.
×
×
  • Create New...