Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

just got an R32 GTST shell, have fitted an RB25DET and box,

all the power steer lines/pipes were given to me in a box and im trying to use the rb25 power steer pump which doesnt have hicas.

has anyone done this?

any one have a diagram of the r33 and r32 power steer system so i can see what i have to do.

cheers

by far the easiest thing to do is buy a HICAS lock bar (dirt cheap these days) and remove the solenoids, lines etc.

Then just use rb25 pump and r32 resoviour. I feed from the bottom of the resoviour to the pump inlet, then 1 line from pump to rack, and 1 line returning from pump to resoviour

This is exactly what i was needing help on for my conversion. I dont have any of the lines, I already have all solenoids removed and a lock bar fitted, so i wasnt sure how the pipes should be run either.

Because the hicas is gone, can i just run the pump to the steering rack then the steering rack to the resovior, then the resovior back to the pump?

I was thinking about getting some banjo bolts with the barb fittings and just pushing on the hose lines. what do you reckon?

Im heading to pirtek in a few minutes.

Once i measure up how i'll run the lines and what fittings etc ill post up how i did it.

Will be from reservoir to pump - pump to bottom fitting on rack (high pressure pipe or crimped connectiins) - rack to power steering cooler loop near radiator (low pressure hose and clamps) - from cooler to reservoir

Yeh let us know becasue I will be very interested to see how you go with it. I dont have the cooler section for mine so im not sure whether it would be needed or not seeings the Hicas is all gone :blink:

  • 3 years later...

Sorry for Necro but...

I'm putting a NEO rb25det in an R32 and also having issues with powersteering pump alignment and HICAS removal. I have the RB20 pump, an RB26 pump and neither seem to provide any joy. Next step is to source an RB25 setup, will any RB25 Powersteering pump work or does it have to be off a NEO?

You will not be able to make it work with the old pumps on the new motor. The pulleys are different. OK, you may be able to make it work if you can find/make/adapt/space a suitable pulley.

Plus, one of the benefits of doing Neo into R32 is to get yourself some engine ancillaries, like the PS pump, that are 10 years younger than the old RB20 stuff!

So, the answer is to get an R34 pump and be done with it. After that, all that is required is to get the hoses from an R34 and attach them to the engine bay pipework for the R32 rack. Some Pirtek/Enzed assistance is required. Piss of the plumbing to the HICAS gear and throw it all in the skip.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Nah - but you won't find anything on dismantling the seats in any such thing anyway.
    • Could be. Could also be that they sit around broken more. To be fair, you almost never see one driving around. I see more R chassis GTRs than the Renault ones.
    • Yeah. Nah. This is why I said My bold for my double emphasis. We're not talking about cars tuned to the edge of det here. We're talking about normal cars. Flame propagation speed and the amount of energy required to ignite the fuel are not significant factors when running at 1500-4000 rpm, and medium to light loads, like nearly every car on the road (except twin cab utes which are driven at 6k and 100% load all the time). There is no shortage of ignition energy available in any petrol engine. If there was, we'd all be in deep shit. The calorific value, on a volume basis, is significantly different, between 98 and 91, and that turns up immediately in consumption numbers. You can see the signal easily if you control for the other variables well enough, and/or collect enough stats. As to not seeing any benefit - we had a couple of EF and EL Falcons in the company fleet back in the late 90s and early 2000s. The EEC IV ECU in those things was particularly good at adding in timing as soon as knock headroom improved, which typically came from putting in some 95 or 98. The responsiveness and power improved noticeably, and the fuel consumption dropped considerably, just from going to 95. Less delta from there to 98 - almost not noticeable, compared to the big differences seen between 91 and 95. Way back in the day, when supermarkets first started selling fuel from their own stations, I did thousands of km in FNQ in a small Toyota. I can't remember if it was a Starlet or an early Yaris. Anyway - the supermarket servos were bringing in cheap fuel from Indonesia, and the other servos were still using locally refined gear. The fuel consumption was typically at least 5%, often as much as 8% worse on the Indo shit, presumably because they had a lot more oxygenated component in the brew, and were probably barely meeting the octane spec. Around the same time or maybe a bit later (like 25 years ago), I could tell the difference between Shell 98 and BP 98, and typically preferred to only use Shell then because the Skyline ran so much better on it. Years later I found the realtionship between them had swapped, as a consequence of yet more refinery closures. So I've only used BP 98 since. Although, I must say that I could not fault the odd tank of United 98 that I've run. It's probably the same stuff. It is also very important to remember that these findings are often dependent on region. With most of the refineries in Oz now dead, there's less variability in local stuff, and he majority of our fuels are not even refined here any more anyway. It probably depends more on which SE Asian refinery is currently cheapest to operate.
    • You don't have an R34 service manual for the body do you? Have found plenty for the engine and drivetrain but nothing else
    • If they can dyno them, get them dyno'd, make sure they're not leaking, and if they look okay on the dyno and are performing relatively well, put them in the car.   If they're leaking oil etc, and you feel so inclined, open them up yourself and see what you can do to fix it. The main thing you're trying to do is replace the parts that perish, like seals. You're not attempting to change the valving. You might even be able to find somewhere that has the Tein parts/rebuild kit if you dig hard.
×
×
  • Create New...