Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • 4 weeks later...

hey just interested to know,

when using 98 people say that 300kw's is the safe upper limit for a stock RB25DET, does using E85 mean that this upper limit is more?

I know that people are getting alot more, like 360kw on stock bottem end, but does that mean over the 300kw with ethanol is safe or just that its happening.. and not necessarily safe. is it to do with the temp/detonation or the stress on the parts?

just wondering cause i want to use E85 and not sure how much boost/power is a safe limit, dont need any rebuilds or gambles with the safe limits..

Edited by SliverS2
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/372229-e85-fuel/page/7/#findComment-6437370
Share on other sites

e85 is alot nicer on engines and a good tune will make the engines "safe" number higher, so a safe 300kw from a rb25 e85 will take this to 340kw as power is made off timing not boost ie 15psi 300kw 98 / 15psi 340kw e85

this fuel is win/win

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/372229-e85-fuel/page/7/#findComment-6439150
Share on other sites

e85 is alot nicer on engines and a good tune will make the engines "safe" number higher, so a safe 300kw from a rb25 e85 will take this to 340kw as power is made off timing not boost ie 15psi 300kw 98 / 15psi 340kw e85

this fuel is win/win

Its just a shame that it isn't more readily available ALL over Adelaide.

I hope with the increasing amount of flex fuel cars coming to the market that this will promote more servos to stock E85.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/372229-e85-fuel/page/7/#findComment-6440055
Share on other sites

well 2 decent places exist but yeh i hear what ur saying

u blokes need a flash tuner set up like us fraud boys flash in flash out easy as that

is there any sort of multipule switch tune ecu's out there for flyline?

we even has a j3 chip back in the old e series falcon yonks ago that was switchable

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/372229-e85-fuel/page/7/#findComment-6440753
Share on other sites

Shall be tuning the new found love of the 3 diamond variety on e85 in the next week or so.

Atm it stands at: Standard evo 7, hks dump + apexi exhaust with high flow cat, running very lean and kicking back to safety map 18psi produced 184kw at all 4 up to 5,800rpm limit (didnt want to go higher due to leaning out but it would have been around 200-210 on usual 22psi by the looks of things)

Bought: 1050cc injectors, aeromotive 340lph pump

e85 Results: in a weeks time :) prediction 240 - 250 at all 4, not bad for a standard car eh ;)

Edited by SkyHi_33
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/372229-e85-fuel/page/7/#findComment-6446393
Share on other sites

Shall be tuning the new found love of the 3 diamond variety on e85 in the next week or so.

Atm it stands at: Standard evo 7, hks dump + apexi exhaust with high flow cat, running very lean and kicking back to safety map 18psi produced 184kw at all 4 up to 5,800rpm limit (didnt want to go higher due to leaning out but it would have been around 200-210 on usual 22psi by the looks of things)

Bought: 1050cc injectors, aeromotive 340lph pump

e85 Results: in a weeks time :) prediction 240 - 250 at all 4, not bad for a standard car eh ;)

Thats the great thing about evos, running dual maps on the standard ecu

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/372229-e85-fuel/page/7/#findComment-6446419
Share on other sites

Shall be tuning the new found love of the 3 diamond variety on e85 in the next week or so.

Atm it stands at: Standard evo 7, hks dump + apexi exhaust with high flow cat, running very lean and kicking back to safety map 18psi produced 184kw at all 4 up to 5,800rpm limit (didnt want to go higher due to leaning out but it would have been around 200-210 on usual 22psi by the looks of things)

Bought: 1050cc injectors, aeromotive 340lph pump

e85 Results: in a weeks time :) prediction 240 - 250 at all 4, not bad for a standard car eh ;)

My mate just bought a evo6 with only an exhaust and fuel pump, got steve knight to play around with it and made 250awkw on pulp. Steve did tune it on 30psi though haha, seems pretty high to me but i know nothing about evos.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/372229-e85-fuel/page/7/#findComment-6446720
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So stock ECU does not like anything above 10 psi?  That Nistune one is just for "try" if it will be any different, I know it need to be tune for that. I know but YOU may know about these problem but i/we dont. They few little Skylines here let alone people who know anything about tham so that is why iam asking here  
    • So now we have a radiator with no attachments whatsoever. It lifts up with a particularly tight spot between the drivers side air box mount and the lower radiator outlet, but if you've got this far you will sort that too. This is the lower mounts with the rad out so you can see where the rubber bushes go, it is a straight shot upwards Done! Assembly is the reverse of disassembly, with blood less likely to be shed.
    • Right, onto the second last trick. The Air Con condenser is mounted to the front of the radiator and stays in the car when the radiator is removed. There are 2x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the condenser to the radiator, remove those The bottom of the condenser is attached to the radiator with clips. You need to lift the condenser out of those clips and clear (up, then forward). f**ked if  could work out how to do that last bit with the front bumper on. I hope you can, and you share the trick.  Bumper removal probably deserves its own thread one day once I've recovered the will to live, but basically you need to remove the wheels, front inner guard liners (clips and 10mm headed bolts), the self tapper between the guard and the bumper at the rearmost point of the bumper (same as an R32 that bit), any remaining clips at the top/front of the grill, an absolute bastard design with a plate that holds the top of the bumper above the headlight each side (only 1 bolt which is tricky to get to, but the plate catches 2 places on the bumper and must be removed....carefully!) and push clips between the bumper and guard under the headlight. If you've done all that you will be faced with wiring for the fog lights on both sides and in ADM Q50 RS at least, 4 nasty tight plugs on the driver's side for the ADAS stuff. So, the clips at the bottom look like this on drivers side (looking from the front) And on the passenger side (also from the front), you can see this one is already out Clearance on both of these are super tight; the condenser needs to move up but the upper rad support mount prevents that, and the radiator can't move down far because it is (rubber) mounted. Once you achieve the impossible and drop the condenser off those mounts so it does not stop the rad moving, you are good to go
    • OK, next the shroud needs to come off and there are a couple of tricks. Firstly, there is a loom from near the passenger side headlight to the fans, coolant temp sensor etc and there is no plug to undo.  In my case I was OK to leave the shroud on top of the engine so I just undid the passenger side fan plug and about 10 of the clips which gave enough free wire to put it aside. The fan plugs were super tight, the trick I used was a small falt screwdriver to push down on the release tab, then a larger flat screwdriver to lever the plug out of the fan unit....be careful with how much force you apply! If you need to remove the shroud altogether for some reason you will have to deal with all the plugs (tight) and clips (brittle)....good luck. I removed all of the clips and replaced them with cable ties that I will just cut next time. Also, in the Red Sport / 400R at least, the intake heat exchanger reservoir hose is bolted to the shroud in 2 places with 10mm headed bolts; so remove them (the hose stays in the car; no need to undo it at the t fittings down at the radiator lower mount. Once you've dealt with the HX hose and the wiring loom, there are 3x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the shroud to the radiator; remove those.   The shroud then lifts out of the bottom mounts where it sits on the radiator, up and onto the engine out of the way. Simples
    • Ok, disregard my “rate them” comment, sorry for my unrealistic input
×
×
  • Create New...