Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hello,

I have purchased a pioneer headunit with "Hard wired remote input".

The R32 has two buttons on the dash; AM/FM and Tune

There is a black socket located on the radio loom.

gallery_46113_2344_25998.jpg

As seen on the picture, the black socket has 2 wires. (i havent traced them back, but i'd assume they would be 1 for each button)

Does anyone know how to make this work with Pioneers Hard wired remote input?

It looks like a need a hard-wired remote control adapter?

Thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/372516-pioneer-hard-wired-remote-input/
Share on other sites

According to this;

http://www.pac-audio.com/PACProductData/SWI-PS/1_Instructions/swi-ps_instructions_072309.pdf

The PAC SWI-PS can be used. However, each seperate radio button needs to be wired with resistors in parallel?

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_18027_PAC-SWI-PSv1-New-Version-of-SWI-PS.html

Is there a cheaper options available?

I would check the resistance of those. from memory they are 30 and 60 ohms. PAC would do it but I would move the ladder around a bit.

thanks for the input.

Perhaps you could investigate it on your r32 project :P

Any chance you got wiring diagram of the r32? Want to see if there is more than 1 wire coming off the factory radio buttons.

Thanks :)

what you *could* do it use the values off the DIY site and mod the switch. that will net a neater solution. in my case the deck I have doesn't support them anyway and I intend to use them for something else.

there are two. a grey one and a org/blk. they both have a common return to the deck.

ah yep.

So;

Grey = Button 1

Org/blk = Button 2

And they share a common return to the deck? The headunit socket only appears to have 2 wires..(no third common return?)

what you *could* do it use the values off the DIY site and mod the switch. that will net a neater solution. in my case the deck I have doesn't support them anyway and I intend to use them for something else.

sounds like a good idea. Looks like i'll be pursuing this adventure alone then!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The oil pressure sensor for logging, does it happen to be the one that was slowly breaking out of the oil block? If it is,I would be ignoring your logs. You had a leak at the sensor which would mean it can't read accurately. It's a small hole at the sensor, and you had a small hole just before it, meaning you could have lost significant pressure reading.   As for brakes, if it's just fluid getting old, you won't necessarily end up with air sitting in the line. Bleed a shit tonne of fluid through so you effectively replace it and go again. Oh and, pay close attention to the pressure gauge while on track!
    • I don't know it is due to that. It could just be due to load on track being more than a dyno. But it would be nice to rule it out. We're talking a fraction of a second of pulling ~1 degree of timing. So it's not a lot, but I'd rather it be 0... Thicker oil isn't really a "bandaid" if it's oil that is going to run at 125C, is it? It will be thicker at 100 and thus at 125, where the 40 weight may not be as thick as one may like for that use. I already have a big pump that has been ported. They (They in this instance being the guy that built my heads) port them so they flow more at lower RPM but have a bypass spring that I believe is ~70psi. I have seen 70psi of oil pressure up top in the past, before I knew I had this leak. I have a 25 row oil cooler that takes up all the space in the driver side guard. It is interesting that GM themselves recommend 0-30 oil for their Vette applications. Unless you take it to the track where the official word is to put 20-50w oil in there, then take that back out after your track day is done and return to 0-30.
    • Nice, looks great. Nice work getting the factory parts also. Never know when you'll need them.
    • Thanks @jtha7 I will have a look around tomorrow but it is a prick of a spot. These are some photos i tried taking 
    • I take it that the knock retard is from bearings tapping a little tune? Thicker oil is a fragile bandaid. You need a much bigger oil cooler and probably the bigger pump being discussed.
×
×
  • Create New...