Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I currently have a R33 GTR with a Autronic SMC ECU and Autronic CDI.

I have purchased a new engine loom as the one in the car is a total mess!!!

I know that I need to hack into the new loom to install the Autronic ECU and CDI but was wanting to know peoples opinions on a Power FC over what I currently have?

I am only looking at the Power FC as i wont have to hack into the new loom as it is a plug in.

If I was to keep the Autronic, is there any other option to modify the loom rather than destroying the new one?

Cheers in advance

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/372623-best-ecu-option-for-r33-gtr/
Share on other sites

Rewire the whole thing, all problems will be solved, including the fact that the factory wiring is crap by now

I will be rewiring either way, I have already purchased a brand new genuine loom

Just need to work out what ecu I should go for as per my first post

It depends on what you are using the car for, what mods you have and your budget.

Waste of time if you only bought a new engine harness as it's usually the power harness on the left hand side that is the worst

The car is already modified enough for what I am wanting to achieve out of it.

347awkw

Car will see more track days than street driving, it is not a daily.

Reason why i purchased a whole new engine harness is because it has been hacked into in a lot of places, have been told the easiest and cleanest way is to replace with new. Which is what I am doing

Both ECU's will do the job but I imagine the SMC would have a few more input/ouput options for things you might want to add later

Is there any other option of how to install the SMC? I prefer not to hack into the new loom if I dont have too . . .

I have a few spare female GTR ecu connectors you could have $20 + postage or pickup just wire it into the autronic and plug it in.... its how i do all my wire ins..... allows the cars loom to remain intact so it can be returned to std in minutes.

Dont want this to look like im hocking parts, just a suggestion.

Keep the SMC its a great ecu, different but great.

Both ECU's will do the job but I imagine the SMC would have a few more input/ouput options for things you might want to add later

Ye as Dan said, depends on what you want ultimately.

If you want to log a few extra things. Keep the Autronic.

If you don't then the PFC will also be fine.

Most circuit GTR's in Vic that are still street driven on occasion all use a PFC.

When you go out & out racecar, extra logging can indeed be handy etc.

You'll need to decide/talk to your tuner & what not.

I have a few spare female GTR ecu connectors you could have $20 + postage or pickup just wire it into the autronic and plug it in.... its how i do all my wire ins..... allows the cars loom to remain intact so it can be returned to std in minutes.

Dont want this to look like im hocking parts, just a suggestion.

Keep the SMC its a great ecu, different but great.

A little off topic Trent. I have the same ECU and I am interested in one of these ECU connectors for my car (33 GTR). Is there any chance I could grab one off you. I tried to send you a PM but It didnt have the little tab for to do so. pinch.gif

A little off topic Trent. I have the same ECU and I am interested in one of these ECU connectors for my car (33 GTR). Is there any chance I could grab one off you. I tried to send you a PM but It didnt have the little tab for to do so. pinch.gif

yeah i looked yesterday and have one left. drop me an email and i will pack it up.

yeah the autronic is a great ECU and the CDI is great too. there's also nothing wrong with a power FC. both of them if tuned well will run the car beautifully. you could swap to the power FC and sell your current autronic set-up and probably not lose any money in the process. power FC is great on a street car, they run very nicely.

really up to you. a patch look for the autronic is a fine idea though too.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So stock ECU does not like anything above 10 psi?  That Nistune one is just for "try" if it will be any different, I know it need to be tune for that. I know but YOU may know about these problem but i/we dont. They few little Skylines here let alone people who know anything about tham so that is why iam asking here  
    • So now we have a radiator with no attachments whatsoever. It lifts up with a particularly tight spot between the drivers side air box mount and the lower radiator outlet, but if you've got this far you will sort that too. This is the lower mounts with the rad out so you can see where the rubber bushes go, it is a straight shot upwards Done! Assembly is the reverse of disassembly, with blood less likely to be shed.
    • Right, onto the second last trick. The Air Con condenser is mounted to the front of the radiator and stays in the car when the radiator is removed. There are 2x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the condenser to the radiator, remove those The bottom of the condenser is attached to the radiator with clips. You need to lift the condenser out of those clips and clear (up, then forward). f**ked if  could work out how to do that last bit with the front bumper on. I hope you can, and you share the trick.  Bumper removal probably deserves its own thread one day once I've recovered the will to live, but basically you need to remove the wheels, front inner guard liners (clips and 10mm headed bolts), the self tapper between the guard and the bumper at the rearmost point of the bumper (same as an R32 that bit), any remaining clips at the top/front of the grill, an absolute bastard design with a plate that holds the top of the bumper above the headlight each side (only 1 bolt which is tricky to get to, but the plate catches 2 places on the bumper and must be removed....carefully!) and push clips between the bumper and guard under the headlight. If you've done all that you will be faced with wiring for the fog lights on both sides and in ADM Q50 RS at least, 4 nasty tight plugs on the driver's side for the ADAS stuff. So, the clips at the bottom look like this on drivers side (looking from the front) And on the passenger side (also from the front), you can see this one is already out Clearance on both of these are super tight; the condenser needs to move up but the upper rad support mount prevents that, and the radiator can't move down far because it is (rubber) mounted. Once you achieve the impossible and drop the condenser off those mounts so it does not stop the rad moving, you are good to go
    • OK, next the shroud needs to come off and there are a couple of tricks. Firstly, there is a loom from near the passenger side headlight to the fans, coolant temp sensor etc and there is no plug to undo.  In my case I was OK to leave the shroud on top of the engine so I just undid the passenger side fan plug and about 10 of the clips which gave enough free wire to put it aside. The fan plugs were super tight, the trick I used was a small falt screwdriver to push down on the release tab, then a larger flat screwdriver to lever the plug out of the fan unit....be careful with how much force you apply! If you need to remove the shroud altogether for some reason you will have to deal with all the plugs (tight) and clips (brittle)....good luck. I removed all of the clips and replaced them with cable ties that I will just cut next time. Also, in the Red Sport / 400R at least, the intake heat exchanger reservoir hose is bolted to the shroud in 2 places with 10mm headed bolts; so remove them (the hose stays in the car; no need to undo it at the t fittings down at the radiator lower mount. Once you've dealt with the HX hose and the wiring loom, there are 3x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the shroud to the radiator; remove those.   The shroud then lifts out of the bottom mounts where it sits on the radiator, up and onto the engine out of the way. Simples
    • Ok, disregard my “rate them” comment, sorry for my unrealistic input
×
×
  • Create New...