Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

I just picked up a shmick R33 which happens to have origin front guards and standard rears. So now I'm on the hunt for some nice wide rear guards to complete the look.

I know Viva garage make a set of 25mm GTR style guards but I'm after something in the 40-50mm region, I know some are running around but I can't find shit at the moment.

So anyone on here know where I could source a set of funky guards?

There's an abundance of front guards but stuff all rears, odd that.

Cheers.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/372679-widebody-guard-choices-for-r33/
Share on other sites

There's an abundance of front guards but stuff all rears, odd that.

Not really. once you go wider than GTR it seems to prove difficult to keep it looking like a 33 and not a big POS. 32 can have guards the size of horses and still look like a 32 but 33 doesn't really like widebody as Much as would be liked.

I think there was some sarcasm involved there :P

If you can find some bad ass wide rear guards let me know! I want to run 18x10 +22 with some 265 tyres and that's just not going to happen with stock guards.

You will need MUCH tougher sizing then 18x10 +22 if you are putting such large guards on there.

Your regular cheap chinese wheel (Drift-Tek, Speedy Cheetah, G.Max whatever etc.) come in 18x9.5 +~35 and fit in stock guards no wuckin' forries. 18x10 +22 is only ~19mm further out then those and you want 40-50mm wide fenders? You will want at LEAST 18x11 0P on the back to pull the look off properly.

Food for thought ;)

Edited by Hank Scorpio

f**k spacers!

Negative offset is where it's at!

Shame my drifteks will look like poo with wide guards .... Bummer.

Yeah still no luck other than the GT-R style and Cross factory. Might just settle for the GTR style so it's cheaper to replace when the car goes into a wall.

my original post still stands.

I don't know shit about fitment but im led to believe that you are pretty hard pressed to find any reasonable sized aftermarket rim that won't fit under GTR guards thus negating needing anything wider. of course there are some retarded dishies out there but you get what i mean.

This is pretty much the ONLY! Widebody R33 that I've ever seen that looked the goods and made me froth!

Thing thing struggles to have rims that look even close to normal.

Stupid questions for the day are ;

1. What are they made of?

2. Are they legal to put on your 33 in australia?

Thanks,

Fibreglass

I don't see why not, I know in NSW you must keep original guard if adding widebody (i.e can't just cut it to make wheel clearance, need to flare it out)

those are some wide f**king guards! not a fan of that, looks all wrong, out or proportion.

I think I'll settle for the topstage 30mm rear guards pending price. they don't look too bad, hopefully they are "cheapish".

Cheers Elvis for letting me know, completely forgot about Topstage.

Edited by Run-It-Hard
  • 1 month later...

I've got GTR style rear guards, running 18x10 +18's and there's still too much gap on them...so if you were looking cross factory I'd suggest 18x12 depending on offset cause mine could use 18x11's to fill it out better.

Needs the rear wing removed and some hardcore bolt on spacers and would look good.

I still stand (said the same thing over the years) that GTN1K was the best looking wide bodied R33.

Amen, also FYI, his is the WiseSport wide body kit, costs a small fortune but damn GTN1K looked amazing. I was fortunate enough back in the day to have my skyline next to it at many a show. Actually now i think about it, its unfortunate..... how the F&*K are you meant to do any good next to that car!! :-)

I've got GTR style rear guards, running 18x10 +18's and there's still too much gap on them...so if you were looking cross factory I'd suggest 18x12 depending on offset cause mine could use 18x11's to fill it out better.

Just cause your current wheels don't fit, doesn't mean a wider wheel will.

You can get a wheel in the same width, but a lower offset in order to fill the guard out.

Where did you get your guards from?

I've found some in the UK and NZ, just trying to sort out shipping at the moment.

Amen, also FYI, his is the WiseSport wide body kit, costs a small fortune but damn GTN1K looked amazing. I was fortunate enough back in the day to have my skyline next to it at many a show. Actually now i think about it, its unfortunate..... how the F&*K are you meant to do any good next to that car!! :-)

Yep absolutely gorgeous car. That Autosalon magazine with his car on the front was my favourite mag back in the day. Must have read his article 50 times.

That car still around or what happened to it?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • This. A 3d wheel alignment is like $120...just take it to the shop. Since theres probably multiple adjustments that need to be made after changing something. Mine has front/rear lower arms, traction rods, tension rods, camber arms, toe arms, front upper arms, hicas kit, sway bars and coilovers. I measure from the edge of the bolt holes on the originals and set the same length on all the adjustable stuff to dial it as close as I could to OEM. Took it straight for alignment; it didnt feel right at all...after alignment, it feels perfect. Similarly i've just changed the springs on another car; and I still needed multiple adjustments to bring it back in spec.
    • A full Veilside kitted JZA80 Supra in Meriken park in Kobe city a few weeks back
    • Its a well known brand in New Zealand; its a rebrand of the Rhino RAV3.  I don't know what the wiring difference *is* between the rev.1 (installed about 15 years ago) and rev.2; but as you say I would think its reasonable that it uses the same immobiliser relay circuits. I had a look but couldnt see a similar harness; but didnt move things around since I didnt want to mess with it   It was one of AVS well known Authorised Installers; I spoke to AVS themselves about it but theyre unsure hence seeking advice more so from the skyline community who are more familiar with the actual car and its wiring. Im in Auckland; but the installer is on the other side of the city so hes very reluctant to come back to even look at it to confirm something isnt connected into the wrong wire.  I dont want to drop the name since they *did* do a really good job for the most part. Everything is very tidy and he fully replaced all the alarm wiring, all the sensors, the wiring to the door motors, installed a switch which was never installed in the first place...really happy with the alarm install itself..just not this one issue. We all make mistakes, if it is the alarm, I just want my fuel pump getting proper switched, fused, power as it was; without having to shell out for an auto electrician to switch a wire and tell me it was the alarm. 
    • Even with the piston at TDC there was room for it to drop, but I don't think it can drop fully into the cylinder, the problem you have is that you need something pushing against the valve to hold it up so you have enough room to put the new stem seal on and the spring etc.  I used compressed air only because putting rope in the cylinder seemed a bit risky to me, I know people have done it countless times before like this. Overall it's a pain in the ass job. Honestly you'd probably be better off taking the head off because the risk of dropping something in the engine and the finicky-ness of it all is very stressful. If you are going to attempt it though i 10000% recommend a 36050 valve spring/keeper tool. I had both the traditional lever type and after doing 1 cylinder it was absolute pain to get those valve keepers in place, even with 2 people. That 36050 is amazing, you do have to push hard to get them in place but it works perfectly almost every time. Back to my actual issue I think my engine is just tired and old and the rings have gone bad. The comp numbers (cold, no oil) were: Cyl 1 -129psi Cyl 2 - 133psi Cyl 3 - 138psi Cyl 4 - 137psi Cyl 5 - 157psi Cyl 6 - 142psi   Cylinder 5 and 6 having the most carbon on them.
    • Who did you have do the installation? I actually know someone who is VERY familiar with the AVS gear. The main point of contact though would be your installer.   Where are you based in NZ?
×
×
  • Create New...