Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all

I know this topic has been covered but after much searching and reading I still have a question for those in the know:

Are the good quality silicon intake pipes (UAS, JJR, Samco) any good in high boost/horsepower applcations (i.e. do they suck shut)?

I'm looking at these because getting a custom intake made seems expensive, sleeving the stock one is only half a fix and the only alloy ones around (Performance-Wise) don't seem to be a very good fit (I have an alloy CAI and need the pod to sit exactly where it does now).

Failing this does anyone know where I can get a decent, factory-fit, alloy induction pipe?

Thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/372995-rb25det-induction-pipe/
Share on other sites

I had an alloy one custom made by ScottyNM35 (he's done a few for other members also). I'm not sure if I'd trust the silicone ones for high power applications. Cost more than the other options getting about, but well worth it in my opinion. Bolts up to factory airbox no dramas

There are a couple of DIY's on sau where some steel piping is inserted inside the stock [rubber] intake. A decent cheap and quick fix for 'x' power.

sleeving the stock one is only half a fix

...

My advice would be to splash out on a custom stainless one. I did and I believe it to be money well spent. Custom will always fit your car perfectly. And the sound it makes... Oh the sound :wub:

@star33 - As you say "cheap quick fix" but not good enough from what I've read (see Hypergear thread) as they still restrict airflow at high power levels and I am looking for 250+rwkw

@Hekt1k - Thanks mate I have pinged ScottyNM35

@Honaldo - This may end up being the only viable option... How much did it cost you and where did you get it done?

I've had a fair bit of metal custom fabrication work done by Scott (Scottynm35) and I have to agree with Hekt1k, it's an excellent way to go.

I've been very happy with the work Scott has done for me and I'd definetly reccommend going the metal intake pipe with Scott :thumbsup:

If you are in Sydney, Fairfield exhaust shop will do custom intake pipes for $80 - $120 a piece. Really good price but I ended up making my own piece of shit. I wouldn't mind getting something proper made. I designed my metal pipe around the pod filter, and z32 and enclosure. I should have made a pipe bigger, all metal and then remade a box to suit. Silly me.

Thanks for the feedback guys - I am going to go down the fabrication path

The general concensus seems to be that the silicon pipes are not the ideal solution.

I'm getting some work done at Sabbadin soon and I was in there yesterday looking at there fabrication work which is superb!

I may as well get it all done at once...

Thanks for the feedback guys - I am going to go down the fabrication path

The general concensus seems to be that the silicon pipes are not the ideal solution.

I'm getting some work done at Sabbadin soon and I was in there yesterday looking at there fabrication work which is superb!

I may as well get it all done at once...

Good choice, you won't regret it :thumbsup:

Looks hot, sounds awesome, and most importantly you know it is going to do the job you want it to do. Just make sure you get at least 3"! lol.

Thanks for the feedback guys - I am going to go down the fabrication path

The general concensus seems to be that the silicon pipes are not the ideal solution.

I'm getting some work done at Sabbadin soon and I was in there yesterday looking at there fabrication work which is superb!

I may as well get it all done at once...

Good work, I've actually asked Rob as well on a quote to do that stuff, I'll be popping around Sabbadin today maybe he can do a group discount lol

Hey could you PM me some contact details for this guy? I have some custom pipework needs in a couple of months time. Does he do custom stainless exhaust parts too?

Mine was $250, was made by Kermit. Dunno if you've heard of him over there, but in the west he's the man you speak to when you need any fabrication work done :D

You can do it with a 3" 45deg bend, a straight length of 3" pipe (couple of hundred mm long), 2x 3" straight silicon joiners & 1x 2.5"-3" silicon reducer.

Mine is welded but you could just use a silicon joiner to join the bend and straight bit. It is currently off getting a 2" bov return welded to it but when it comes back I'll take some pics :thumbsup:

There definately seems to be a big gap in market here for someone to exploit (I am unfortunately not that talented!)

Someone could make a killing if they could fabricate these in numbers for a decent price!

Good work, I've actually asked Rob as well on a quote to do that stuff, I'll be popping around Sabbadin today maybe he can do a group discount lol

I have made a few for local guys that can drop in with their car, but every one of them was different. (pod, bov return, turbo intake size/position.) Makes it very hard to mass produce and make on the cheap unfortunately.

Its the fiddly bits like bov return, breather etc that take the time to get right, the steel bov piping also needs to be modified to align with the intake fitting.

I have made a few for local guys that can drop in with their car, but every one of them was different. (pod, bov return, turbo intake size/position.) Makes it very hard to mass produce and make on the cheap unfortunately.

Its the fiddly bits like bov return, breather etc that take the time to get right, the steel bov piping also needs to be modified to align with the intake fitting.

To compensate for this, I am using some fat heater hose suitable for about 45psi, to return the BOV output. It seemed way too fiddly to get metal to metal fittings to line up. I would pay though to have a proper all metal intake pipe made.

As luck would have it I've managed to score myself an Apexi super suction intake pipe

A very nice piece of kit in cast alloy... nobody could fabricate anything of this much beauty out of exhaust pipe :P

Can't wait to hear the GT-RS sucking through this puppy!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
    • No those pads are DBA too  but they have colors too. I look at the and imo the green "street" are the best.
    • I’m not sure what happened I told them about sonic tunes free OTS tune and the next the I know .. I was booted..   To funny 
    • Yea - I mean I've seen my fuel pump which is decades old and uh, while I'm not saying this with real knowledge... but I sure get the ick at using anything in the fuel system that produced the state of that pump. Many years ago I went through multiple pumps (and strainers) before I dropped the tank to clean it out with extreme violence. I'm talking the car would do maybe 50km before coming to a halt, which resulted in me cleaning out the filter with some brake cleaner and going on my way. None of my stuff ever looked like what came out of your fuel tank. I don't think I'd be happy with it unless every single component was replaced (or at least checked/cleaned/confirmed to be clean here).
×
×
  • Create New...