Will This Leak With Teflon Tape?

[boostn0199]

Putting in my jjr oil cooler atm and had a accident which resulted in this pictured below to the fitting. Now im wondering since these jjr kits leak anyway without teflon tape will this still work now with the use of teflon tape?

[karma_syke]

thats a really good picture, nice photography.

[Pal]

just smooth it off and get some loctite sealant on there and nip it as normal

[boostn0199]

just smooth it off and get some loctite sealant on there and nip it as normal

Would it be any different using teflon tape or liquid teflon instead of loctite?

[GTSBoy]

Use a fine file and remove the burr. Do not mark the remaining good part of the taper, because if you're decently lucky, the other fitting will still seal up quite nicely against the remaining bit. I reckon there's plenty of mating surface left. Do not put teflon tape on there. That would be bodgy.

If I got desperate with what you've got there, and wasn't willing to remove it and weld a new one on, I'd screw on a suitable mating fitting with another male on the back side of it, and then seal weld it to the original fitting. That would basically just move it out from where it is.

[boostn0199]

Yeah I get that part about there still being enough taper left but with these jjr kits and fittings there dodgy and everyone who hasnt used teflon on the thread has had them leak. Im not putting teflon on the taper just on the thread.

[Pal]

try it, if it leaks, try our idea!

[XRATED]

Dont ever- ever- ever- ever use thread tape on a jic/dash fittings. It will cause them to leak.

You might be lucky, cut off the protusion and smooth it back flat with fine wet and dry. Do not remove too much, the fitting needs to be flat.

If you have to, run a thin film of loctite on the mating surface.

[89CAL]

Dont ever- ever- ever- ever use thread tape on a jic/dash fittings. It will cause them to leak.

You might be lucky, cut off the protusion and smooth it back flat with fine wet and dry. Do not remove too much, the fitting needs to be flat.

If you have to, run a thin film of loctite on the mating surface.

+1

Are the fittings weld in or screw in? If they are screw in it would be worth getting a replacement. Only on iPhone so can't see the photo great, just looked like a screw in one

[Torques]

Teflon tape won't help you..

The surface is damaged, but you could try sanding this down with very fine sanding paper.

[Moodles2]

It's been said by others that teflon tape turns to jelly when it comes in contact with oil, and tends to get caught into the turb oil lines and blocking oil supply to the turbo.

[boostn0199]

Yeah but thats if you apply it to all the threads if you leave 1 or 2 threads it wont be able to break off. Im using some other liquid sealant i got from enzed its rated to work on oils oetrols gases etc. Ive used it on my oil sensors and its worked hopefully will work here aswell.

[89CAL]

Maybe pointing out the obvious. But if you know it's going to leak anyway (you said the JJR kits leak in your first post) then why not just buy a new oil cooler?

Oil is the life blood of your engine/turbo, something as simple as this ruining that would make you regret 'bandaid' fixing it now

[boostn0199]

Maybe pointing out the obvious. But if you know it's going to leak anyway (you said the JJR kits leak in your first post) then why not just buy a new oil cooler?

Oil is the life blood of your engine/turbo, something as simple as this ruining that would make you regret 'bandaid' fixing it now

Yeah theyll leak if used without and sealant but if you use sealant correctly and it doenst leak theres nothing wrong with the kit just abit more labour involved but if you get it all right in the end with no leaks it will do the job. Although if I was going to buy one again I will just fork out double and get a good one for ease of installation but thats not to be said I can't make this one work just got to be careful and make sure its all done right.

[89CAL]

ah ok fair enough

I thought they you meant they just leak no matter what

Seen as you have nothing to do, try filing/sanding back the burr so that its nice and flush and make sure its nice and clean.

You want to make sure theres nothing that the female end of the fitting can break off that might go into your oil, if you get what I mean

Nothing to lose so worth a shot

[boostn0199]

An update on my progress I got it all setup and all and just use the liquid thread sealant on all the threads had no leaks besides for that damaged one so took it off and smeared a light coat of the sealant over the damaged chaffer and let it cure over night and so far running no leaks anywhere. The length of hoses are redicolous im not very happy with how I had to mount them in order to fit them in but what can you do.

[_x_FiReStOrM_x_]

If you cleaned that off flat, you'll be fine. There's still plenty of taper left to seat on, and oil pressure isn't exactly huge pressure anyway. Not compared to CRDI anyway lol.

[XRATED]

An update on my progress I got it all setup and all and just use the liquid thread sealant on all the threads had no leaks besides for that damaged one so took it off and smeared a light coat of the sealant over the damaged chaffer and let it cure over night and so far running no leaks anywhere. The length of hoses are redicolous im not very happy with how I had to mount them in order to fit them in but what can you do.

[Marlin]

FWIW I'm not rough as guts like some, AND I use a JJR kit on my race car, AND I didn't resort to dodgy thread tape usage. I simply assembled it correctly and carefully, and it's fine.

I also found the line length ok, but I did mount my remote filter behind the driver side tower

I did however find a large piece of alloy swarf inside a dash fitting. Not so good.