Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi I'm about to buy a new car and I'm having trouble deciding. I have a few questions about specific models that hopefully someone can answer. The car is mainly to be used as a everyday car that can tow 1-2 motorbikes and can survive the odd track day. i plan on eventually buying a good bike so i probably wouldnt do track days in the car after I get the bike.

So the cars I'm considering are the ford ba mk2 xr6t, r32 gtr and r34 25gtt. I was hoping to only spend about 15k on the car (before mods) and wanted about 250-300 kw atw in the skylines and 300-350 in the xr6t, my question about the skylines is how reliable is the r32 GTR? I've heard they are very expensive to run and that they brake down a'lot being old cars. the other questions I have is how much would it cost to obtain this kind of power from either of the skylines, and what kind of fuel efficiency do they run ( this doesn't matter to much just out of curiosity). I know the xr6t should be able to get 300 rwk for less than 5k so I was wondering how the others compared.

there is one other option I'm not sure if anybody will be able to help me out with but I could buy a bike and use my current car to tow it. I don't have my bike license so I was wondering if anyone who has a bike can tell me if they get more enjoyment out of the occasional track day than having a nice car everyday

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/373424-what-vehicle-should-i-buy/
Share on other sites

skylines don't "break down a lot", but like all cars they will have the occasional issue, and once pushed harder they will have more issues if not down right. the ford is no exception to this rule either. if you up the power one and don't do the appropriate mods to go with it then you will end up with some issues as well.

as for the r32 GTR, they are generally reliable but they are getting a bit long in the tooth these days and if you go for a cheaper example then you are more likely to end up having issues with it.

i'd be more inclined to go the falcon or the r34 GT-t over the GTR for the simple fact that a r32 GTR for 15k isn't going to be in the best condition, so you could expect to have issues. for your budget you could get a r34 GT-t and then rather easily get it up to 250kw with a new turbo, ecu, AFM and injectors.

if your looking to use it as a tow car.. the r32 gtr and r34 gtt doesnt have a tow ball. and to get 300awkw is gonna cost more then 5k probally 10-15k if you want it to last and 15k on a r32 gtr isnt going to get you anything special..

the xr6t will be the best for what your looking for.

Thanks for the quick reply! I was planning to get an after market tow bar for the skylines (if that even exists).

skylines don't "break down a lot", but like all cars they will have the occasional issue, and once pushed harder they will have more issues if not down right. the ford is no exception to this rule either. if you up the power one and don't do the appropriate mods to go with it then you will end up with some issues as well.

as for the r32 GTR, they are generally reliable but they are getting a bit long in the tooth these days and if you go for a cheaper example then you are more likely to end up having issues with it.

i'd be more inclined to go the falcon or the r34 GT-t over the GTR for the simple fact that a r32 GTR for 15k isn't going to be in the best condition, so you could expect to have issues. for your budget you could get a r34 GT-t and then rather easily get it up to 250kw with a new turbo, ecu, AFM and injectors.

how much would i roughly be looking at to get 250kw in the r34 gT-t?

Go the moped! 49Cc of goodness, lol. So you haven't got a bike license - best to not bite more than you can chew, ie you'll need a few years to upgrade from learner-type motorcycles to a balls out 1litre superbike. A huge learning curve in front of you.

A 10-15k gtr would be looking for new suspension, turbos, rebuilt engine, fuel supply, cooling, etc. There's 15grand right there. R34 should be ok in terms of engine lifespan so you'd only need say an 8g budget for suspension, injectors, front brakes, nistune ecu, garret turbo & associated intake/exhaust for your 250kw goal.

For your towing aim the ford would be first choice, r34 close second, with gtr last. If you go for the r32 gtr after doing it up I feel you'd get almost as much enjoyment driving it as you would riding... Is that what you want though? To choose your car over your bike? That's what you'd get with a built gtr. Whereas you'd appreciate a fast bike over a run of the mill ford...

Decide what it is you're after.....

Go the moped! 49Cc of goodness, lol. So you haven't got a bike license - best to not bite more than you can chew, ie you'll need a few years to upgrade from learner-type motorcycles to a balls out 1litre superbike. A huge learning curve in front of you.

A 10-15k gtr would be looking for new suspension, turbos, rebuilt engine, fuel supply, cooling, etc. There's 15grand right there. R34 should be ok in terms of engine lifespan so you'd only need say an 8g budget for suspension, injectors, front brakes, nistune ecu, garret turbo & associated intake/exhaust for your 250kw goal.

For your towing aim the ford would be first choice, r34 close second, with gtr last. If you go for the r32 gtr after doing it up I feel you'd get almost as much enjoyment driving it as you would riding... Is that what you want though? To choose your car over your bike? That's what you'd get with a built gtr. Whereas you'd appreciate a fast bike over a run of the mill ford...

Decide what it is you're after.....

Thanks for the advice, when I said I havnt got my licence I meant full licence I still have 1 year to go in my green p's, ill definitely be buying a good bike once I've got my full license, but I will eventually want a decent car as well it sounds like if I wanted to go with a car the ford is the cheapest option.

Get the XR6T.

But, don't expect to be able to thrash it too hard at the track and expect to drive it home evry time. You cannot expect that of any car.

You may need a brake upgrade, or if you find one with premium brakes, at least a pad upgrade.

though i am not a ford person, nor much of a bike person, in my honest opinion, the cheaper option here is simple, either buy a really nice bike for track days and enjoy yourself, or buy a really good track car, then from there, get a good towing vehicle, say a Triton, hilux or navara.

i personally wouldn't get a car like either a skyline or XR6T pure money into doing it up, and then use it to tow a bike around, it just doesn't seem practical to me, but hey, this is my opinion only.

so if you are going this way, i to would suggest the XR6T, as they are a car that is more designed for towing then what a skyline is (plus would be a hell of a lot cheaper to fit a tow bar if it didn't have one already).

my two cents worth

I wouldnt go for a skyline if your gonna get a bike for track and fun dry day thrashes as you will just get the mod bug and keep going and going until you spend $XXXXX.

Id be keen on the xr6t from a dealer as they will give you a warranty, extended if you wish. Big car too so very practical.

lol ask skyline fourm about getting a skyline, overwhelmingly people tell you not to get a skyline, rofl

anyway, my experience in driving is R33 gt25t, holden barina, and some late model falcons, and i can tell you for sure that the 4L straight 6 is much much more daily drive friendly, don't need to rev it and torque is early. For a road car that you spend 95% putting around in you cannot beat an xr6t for functionality with some decent sporty grunt.

+1 xr6t, every mechanic knows it, lots of local parts, easy to get more power out of it. isn't super targeted by cops, 4door with room, suspension suited to aus roads that come stock.

isn't as sporty as a skyline or as fun to drive but you'll get over it.

karma im thinking of getting a larger car that will be a bit of fun on track days and stuff, budget will be about 2-3k for the intial purchase of the car. dont need to get the most power out of it, but cheap parts and good results for the money i put in would be nice, as well as a generally reliable car which wont cause me alot of troubles.

(this car will be replacing my 91 Excel as the daily driver - i wanted something bigger and automatic since i spend alot of time on the roads)

R31 Skyline - will do a RB30ET conversion (some good learning to be had there!)

or whatever model XR6T Falcon I can afford (probably gonna be something old)

i should probs have started a new thread but since you were talking about the positives of the xr6t and its related to what im after ...

karma im thinking of getting a larger car that will be a bit of fun on track days and stuff, budget will be about 2-3k for the intial purchase of the car. dont need to get the most power out of it, but cheap parts and good results for the money i put in would be nice, as well as a generally reliable car which wont cause me alot of troubles.

(this car will be replacing my 91 Excel as the daily driver - i wanted something bigger and automatic since i spend alot of time on the roads)

or whatever model XR6T Falcon I can afford (probably gonna be something old)

i should probs have started a new thread but since you were talking about the positives of the xr6t and its related to what im after ...

Pretty sure they didn't make XR6T falcons until the BA series, so you won't get one for anywhere near 3k.

The XR6 or else perhaps a Stagea?

I've just bought a Stag (after r33 ownership) and friggin' love it. Doesn't punch quite as hard (yet) as the r33, but it still hauls and I LOVE having all that room! Now I just gotta get a towball so i too can tow bikes around.

The XR6 or else perhaps a Stagea?

I've just bought a Stag (after r33 ownership) and friggin' love it. Doesn't punch quite as hard (yet) as the r33, but it still hauls and I LOVE having all that room! Now I just gotta get a towball so i too can tow bikes around.

The XR6 or else perhaps a Stagea?

I've just bought a Stag (after r33 ownership) and friggin' love it. Doesn't punch quite as hard (yet) as the r33, but it still hauls and I LOVE having all that room! Now I just gotta get a towball so i too can tow bikes around.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Harness is for a s1 Rb25det, and it is engine and lower harness.  the old harness had broken off plugs and was in very rough condition/exposed wires and splices etc. it is not able to be put back on the car, I could visually inspect to see if they had rewired any pins on the ecu plug. The fuel pump definitly isn’t turning off it’s an external pump and very loud you can hear it. Will look at the other harness tonight, am also going to pull the fuel rail and watch the injectors spray, will update here with what I find. Pretty sure at this point it has to be something to do with injectors because car will fire up on starting fluid and cas is clicking the Injectors. Fuel pressure is steady 43psi 
    • Check the injectors flow evenly, and are actually flowing what you and the ECU think they should be flowing. If it's starting up on starter fluid, you have a fuel issue. Is it possible under cranking your fuel pump is turning off?   The harness you replaced, is that the whole engine harness? Do yourself a test, and drop the old harness on and plug it into the Z32 ECU. It's possible they've wired things different. From memory S1 to S2 is different in RB25 and you may have a wrong loom
    • I haven’t pulled the injectors to watch them spray yet but they are clicking from the cas and all of the spark plugs are wet with fuel. I’ve thought the cylinders were being flooded from the beginning and was hoping fuel pressure would fix it. Tonight I am going to pull the rail and watch the injectors spray. Don’t know how to test/diagnose if the plugs are firing in correct sequence but that should be a timing thing and as far as timing goes my car still has the half moon for the cas can only install it 1 way. And my mechanical timing is 100% correct I posted photos above. Confirmed with the balancer on and off. 
    • I checked spark on all cylinders and they all visually have spark with the plug pulled and grounded, but plug 1 is the only one that fouled. This was a running swap that blew up and was rebuilt by a machine shop, put a new wiring specialties harness and did all gaskets, studs, and bolts while it was out.  compression is 135-150 across all cylinders. Aside from that from my understanding with the z32 ecu and maf the car should start regardless. The wiring for TPS and the dual 02 sensor/ dual knock sensor stuff shouldn’t actually stop the car from starting or even running well, (just slightly rich)  they just give fault codes. Car supposedly is supposed to start as long as you have z32 afm and ecu with the nistune base map and that’s info coming from a well known and trusted tuner who does a lot with SR/RB (Rsenthalpy). After more trouble shooting today where I’m at right now is that the cas is sending signal to the injectors they click while spinning the rotor, Fuel pressure is now set at 43psi, all cylinders have good compression and all of the plugs looked great (just wet with fuel) except for cylinder 1 which was very black (cylinder 1 has 150psi compression). all of the coils generate spark if pulled out and grounded out on the head. On the fuel pump car just pops into the exhaust. On starting fluid car will fire off. Hard to tell if all cylinders are firing off but definitley a couple. sounds like all of them but it’s only for 3-5 seconds hard to tell. 
×
×
  • Create New...