Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Alright cool, I was planning on doing it that way but wasn't sure if it'd be the correct reading as I tried to test the VCT with the hand controller but when I unplugged the plug for the VCT, hand controller still told me it was activating and deactivating haha

Would using a multimeter be a more accurate measure?

  • Replies 55
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

I'm pretty sure my car has been a manual all along though. Dash cluster is a manual one, the stock ECU that came out was a manual one and there was only one other owner of the car before me. Weird.

.....don't forget the half a dozen owners in japan before that guy too...

Ahhh I see. No dramas then, on my lunch break I'm gonna go sit in my car and start mashing the throttle without starting it haha

On one hand, I kinda hope the TPS is the problem as I'm starting to get over the fact my car barely makes more power than a midly-fettled GTS-t pinch.gif

Just a bit of an update.

Car overheated today as the rubber hose connecting the turbo water line to the block split and caused coolant to spray everywhere. Car had to get towed.

Which raises the question, if there was an issue with the cooling system, how much would this affect timing and if it does, what hardware will it affect to cause the timing issue (eg. the turbo becomes heatsoaked and in turn superheats the air)

Also worth noting the car has run hotter than normal since the timing issue surfaced, so not sure if timng issue and overheating issues are 2 isolated problems or are connected somehow.

Ideas and thoughts would be great :)

  • 5 months later...

Oh forgot to mention, knock usually occurs in the upper RPM range. At first we thought it was a VCT issue as that's when the knock starts becoming very unstable but we've ruled out the VCT by running it both plugged and unplugged.

Also worth mentioning that the fuel rail around cylinder 4,5 anıd 6 has gone from the factory greeny-metallic colour to a heated titanium sort or bluey-rainbow colour.

if the car is getting hot, and is underpowered, then there is a very good chance that your timing is retarded.

Your CAS might be stuffed.

I'd be checking the timing with a timing light, and then if you do adjust the cas, I wouldn't be driving it around hard until a retune is done.

Ok thie relates to my last post ... Tried to copy info and add using the phone ... Didnt work ...

Anyhow, just thought, if there was no change between having vct connecyed or not, could that not indicate that the vct is not working?

Also, excess fuel flow is iften used the keep the fuel rail cool. The fuel rail gettinh hot to tye point if discolouraton my indicated that you hage reduced flow out of the rail and hence cooling flow to the rear injectors or you have something making it hot. This would heat the fuel and change the fuel flow out of them. If up, the ecu would lean out the others if flow goes down, well theres your knock.

Just my thoughts.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
    • Can I suggest you try EBC directly again and link them to as many competitor catalogues as you can to show their listing is incorrect, eg https://dba.com.au/product/front-4000-series-hd-brake-rotor-dba42304/ If you have access to an R33 GTST VIN and your VIN, you could also use a Nissan Parts lookup like Amayama to show them the part number is different between 33 GTST and 34 GTT which may get their attention
    • So i got reply from EBC and they just this site where you can clearly see those 296mm fronts on R34 GTT. I send them photos and "quotes" that 296mm are not for 34 GTT and they are too small. But it will be very hard to return them cuz nobody here knows 100% and they just copy those EBC catalogue :-D https://ebcbrakesdirect.com/automotive/nissan/skyline-r34
×
×
  • Create New...