Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I have done a search but cant find a definate answer....Engine is rb26dett.

If using twin 044's, with twin entry rail etc, will 800cc injectors be ok if i just bump up the rail pressure, and If so to what power level?

My 800s are pretty much brand new sards so If I could keep them instead of having to buy new ones that would obviously be the go.

Any help is much appreciated. Cheers

  • Replies 74
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Given he asked what power level - estimated you'd say 400rwkw would be the limit. Maybe a tad more, maybe a tad less.

With bumped rail pressure my 700cc Sards are @ 65% max duty with 360rwkw on PULP (20psi).

So 400rwkw on 700cc/E85 (allowing for 35% extra fuel) would be 100% duty with the bumped rail pressure.

So you could say the 800cc on a 2.6ltr might just scrape in. But you won't know till you get there.

We have seen a couple now max 1200's at 600hp on the nose at the wheels. That is tuned logging individual cylinder EGT's.

The others that we have done seem to come in at around the same ratio so I would say 400hp at the wheels would be a fair guess as to what you could make safely on 800cc injectors but as N1 said, every setup is different and it will all come down to fuel flow and the rest of your setup.

The car we just had tuned on 1600's made 610 on 22psi and uses just over 9L/min of fuel at peak power. Not sure on the duty cycle yet but I can report back if anyone is interested (could calculate also but not sure on the exact L/min rate right now).

We are also about to wind 2 bar into it and crack 700 at the wheels. I can report findings on fuel flow and injector duty if it will help you guys out?

Yeah cause as we've seen, some tuners love 10:1 AFR's lol.

That is certainly going to damage the duty cycle.

And rightly so. If you can't run 10:1 in places of your tune then your fuel system is inadequate.

Every car we have tuned runs 10:1/10.5:1 at some point. Usually at peak torque or there abouts. But then again, none of the stuff we have tuned anymore ever blows up....ever and it's only since using this tuner

Ok well I wasn't really after a smart arse answer, I realise every setup is different but anyway the car is running dash 5-s, vipec, cams, etc.

At the moment it only has single 044 intank at 320rwkw

I have a fuel system for it consisting of 2x 044 twin entry rail and at the moment only the 800cc injectors fitted.

We have seen a couple now max 1200's at 600hp on the nose at the wheels. That is tuned logging individual cylinder EGT's.

The others that we have done seem to come in at around the same ratio so I would say 400hp at the wheels would be a fair guess as to what you could make safely on 800cc injectors but as N1 said, every setup is different and it will all come down to fuel flow and the rest of your setup.

The car we just had tuned on 1600's made 610 on 22psi and uses just over 9L/min of fuel at peak power. Not sure on the duty cycle yet but I can report back if anyone is interested (could calculate also but not sure on the exact L/min rate right now).

We are also about to wind 2 bar into it and crack 700 at the wheels. I can report findings on fuel flow and injector duty if it will help you guys out?

Wow have you got a flow gauge that does 9l/min - where do I get one of those?

Wow have you got a flow gauge that does 9l/min - where do I get one of those?

You trolling me or are you just clueless?

Calculated fuel flow based on the EXACT ms open time of the injector at peak power. The injectors are being told to deliver that exact amount of fuel. So where to get one? windows has a calculator or you can buy one from any newsagent

I'm now seeing 620 rwhp on E85 with CDI ignition allowing/accepting much more fuel. This is despite my modererate 2860-5 low mount turbo setup. My HKS 1000 CC injectors are at full duty cycle at max torque.

In hindsight, I would have gone to ID2000 (2000cc) injectors as the HKS units weren't "plug and play" in any case.

I'll take the opportunity again to express how impressed I am with the billet.net.au CDI kit (M&W CDI + bracket + harness etc). The spark strength allows bullsh*t amounts of E85 fueling midrange and just wakes up the turbo response. Forget your Splitfire/Twinpower combo.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Waaay ahead of ya....(evil laugh!!) Will show the fitment and spec details later when it isnt as rainy !
    • Thanks Dose.....    I appreciate it!!
    • I'll probably be putting the shit box back on the dyno again soon, I want to dial in the closed loop boost control properly. I'll have a camera facing the car/motor for fun too. Just note, there are essentially 3x 10AN inlets going into the catch can and 1x going back to the intake pipe. Most of the time the catch can "return" to the sump actually is the crank case breather, pushing air out.
    • I have the R3C with a Nismo slave and by no means does it behave like a stocker, it ain’t THAT bad. On take off just give a bit more throttle than you would say a coppermix and it’s fine. It will not slip though.   
    • Okay. Final round of testing done. Got a friend to hook up a fancy scanner to the car and we also ran some compression and leakdown tests, she is healthy.  The MAF was definitely the culprit. So for future reference anyone with similar issues that find this thread. I suggest the following steps, in order of affordability:   Check your spark plugs for any fouling, replace plugs if they are bad or re adjust the gaps making it narrower (0.8mm would be good). Check every coil's resistance with a multimeter. It can be done by probing the IB and G pins on the coil pack. Resistance should be around 1.4 (+/- 0.1) Ohms Check the MAF. If you have Nissan connect or a good scanner with the 14 adapter it should allow you to see the voltage on the MAF reading should be around 1.1 - 1.2V when car is idling. But if you don't, buy a new MAF from Amazon and test, then return it. (For instance, I got a Chinese one for $40 that was reporting 1.3v on idle). If you still have scanner, you can run tests on the injectors to see if they are working, just remember to unplug the fuel pump fuse/relay and have no pressure on the line. Then listen for the noises that the injectors make. Clean/replace injectors as needed. Once you find the issue and fix, order thousands of dollars worth of OEM parts to refresh unrelated things (Optional)   PS: Thanks to the absolute legends of this forum for the responses and help to someone that went a bit over their head. (me)
×
×
  • Create New...