Jump to content
SAU Community

Piston/rod Combo On A Budget?

stiddy

By stiddy,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

stiddy Contributor

stiddy

Posted
Posted

Hey all,

RB25DET motor...

If you had $2000-$2500 to spend on Pistons and Rods.. What would you get?

Ive had a look around and asked alot of performance shops.. Ive got an idea of what I want. Ive heard everything from CP, Spool, JE/Nitto, Eagle, Manley, Mahle to ACL..

In your opinion what would be the best combo for the money.

Set up I currently have, is tomei forged rods/pistons, tomei cams/cam gears.. and i've melted/cracked a piston on 1.7bar at 8200rpm. Want to buy rods and pistons.

Thanks,

Matt

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/374381-pistonrod-combo-on-a-budget/
Share on other sites
R31Nismoid Grand Master

R31Nismoid

Posted
Posted

2.5k will get you plenty of decent stuff outta the US at the moment.

There are plenty of Rod/Piston Combo's to be had from ebay retailers.

Just make sure they have an actual website/business as well, not just the 'backyarder' style ebay seller.

Although if you cracked/melted a piston mate, that wasn't a fault of the mechanicals...

stiddy Contributor

stiddy

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Although if you cracked/melted a piston mate, that wasn't a fault of the mechanicals...

Yep, understand this. Perfectly. But, it needs to be fixed. Thought about going a 2.8 stroker... but for now just want to get new rods and pistons in the thing, get it running and keep the mrs happy lol.

Can you recommend any parts? people in the states? links maybe?

Because of so many different choices its made it harder to choose.. if that makes sence? is anything brand/part better than the other?

Car did make 510rwhp. before deciding to empty the sump though the catch can breather and blow smoke like ive never seen lol.

Thanks for the quick reply.

Matt

The Dan Grand Master

The Dan

Posted
Posted

I'd work out why a forged piston melted before deciding which one you want to melt next

510hp is nothing, 1.7 bar is nothing and 8200rpm is nothing

The answer to your question is not which one is going to be best, it's which one you can get the easiest and cheapest. They are all equal and no matter what anyone tells you, they are all going to be perfectly fine in your application. It's not until you start making over 1000 hp that piston choice really matters

Beer Baron Grand Master

Beer Baron

Posted
Posted

for my money given current forex rates i would go with:

tomei rods (had between $1000-$1200 at the moment and very nice)

as the guys said there is lots of good piston options out there. so piston choice is a bit more open.

CP pistons are a fine choice.

or maybe some mahle short skirt pistons if you are that way inclined.

there's other good options too for reasonable money, just do a bit of research on what people are currently using in RBs.

89CAL Grand Master

89CAL

Posted
Posted

Full rebuild kit for $2090.

http://www.spoolimports.com/spool-engine-rebuild-kits/nissan/rb20det-rebuild-kit

spool rods

cp pistons

cometic gasket

bearings

bla bla bla

RB20DET rebuild kit?

I posted a link to the 25 kit about 4 posts ago............

stiddy Contributor

stiddy

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Thanks everyone for your input.. its been helpful :)

Ive ordered a set of Manley H-beam rods with ARP2000 rod bolts, .020 over CP pistons (almost got Weisco pistons but figured CP would be the way to go after more reseaching).

Also ordered ARP headstuds.

Now looking into barings. Probably use ACL Race series or maybe Tomei.. havent really decided yet

As for the headgasket im looking at either a Tomei or a Cometic.

Anymore opinions on barings and gaskets??

Will rip the motor out and start stripping it down this weekend, will send the block off to be acid dipped, bored, honed and get all the machine work done.

Hopefully get it back next weekend and start bolting it all back together.

Heres hoping the crank is ok, or i'll get a new crank rather than have it machined and fit oversized barings, i dont like that idea.

Figure while its out i'll fit a Ross Harmonic metal jacket balancer.

Thats about all I can think of for now..

Cheers,

Matt

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • sunsetR33
      Blue/grey smoke after idle

      By sunsetR33 · Posted

      Can't you put the pistons to TDC and then do the valve seals? Or will the drop down too far to pull them back up?
    • sunsetR33
      Replacing turbo water line - any recommendations or advice?

      By sunsetR33 · Posted

      One thing I can tell you is, do it properly the first time. If you encounter unexpected problems just let the car sit for a week or two if you have to get some other parts or figure stuff out.  I'd have said go and use as many OEM parts as possible but since you want to change the turbo later on a custom kit is probably the better choice. Since I have no experience with RB25 just compare parts diagrams and images before buying a line kit and it should be easy to see if it has everything you need. Amayama has very good parts diagrams and part number lists, that is what I used a bunch to figure out what I might need. And don't forget to plan ahead and possibly renew other stuff that's easy to get to while you're in there doing the turbo lines. Happy wrenching
    • sunsetR33
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By sunsetR33 · Posted

      Update 4:   Hi all, good news. Engine is running and all the gaskets and seals seem to be working as intended. No leaks so far, even the JB Weld seems to hold. I flushed out the old coolant a few times and put in fresh coolant, not Nissan stuff, I decided to try the Ravenol Protect FL22, they claim it works for a wide variety of JDM cars and the opinions on it by some people were pretty good. And it has the nice poison green color! And man am I glad I bought a coolant system tester earlier this year, vacuum filling works wonders on this engine. I can definitely recommend this to anyone still doing it the old school way. All you need is compressed air supply. Will have to do a small test drive as soon as I can, I removed the gauge cluster again as the tacho needle was still bouncing around a bit but it was much better than before already.  I also found some cracks on all 4 tires inner and outer sidewalls. Apparently these tires should 't be parked on for extended periods or be kept under 0 degrees during storage, which I did not know. Clearly the previous owner didn't look into those details either, he probably bought them just cause they are cool semi-slicks. I'm just wondering how tf I am supposed to reach 30-80 degree tire temperatures on the public road consistenly, these tires were never going to work for my use case. I'll probably order Continental SportContact7 ones as these are the best allround summer tire available right now and I don't think I'll need anything crazier for now. Do let me know if you have experience with various tires and which ones you recommend.
    • sunsetR33
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By sunsetR33 · Posted

      You have no idea how many goddamn boxes I received these past three months haha Most have been put to use by now though, luckily
    • sunsetR33
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By sunsetR33 · Posted

      Not going to pretend I didn't do a bit of junky work this time around, but mostly due to the fact that some things I am not willing to spend days fixing right now, like wiring. I try to do most things properly the first time around.
×
×
  • Create New...