Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys

I got a NA 33, and think it *might* be able to get some sideways action...but i have 'nanang' tyres on the back (or somehting like that) and bridgestones on the front...

someone told me nanang tyres are fairly soft rubber and will grip the road weel (possibly too much :()

what you guys think?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/37440-best-tyres-for-drift/
Share on other sites

the harder the tyre the less it grips and as a result the more it'll slide... don't go for directionals or anything, go for cheap indonesian rubber... and wear em out till they're balding...

  • 2 weeks later...

I got the australian Simex one... nothing fancy, just a normal non directional tyre.

Seems pretty ok, can have traction if I want and not too much if wanna go sideways a bit.

Problem is tyre size on the car is 225/50 so it's a bit wider than stock (205/55) so it's grippier.. Maybe if you can get some cheap Simex 205/55 that'll do the sideways job well..

for low speed and beginner then use a second hand tyre with less then 50% tread depth and one with out blocks on the tread pattern.

For high speed drift then use good quality tyres with a nice soft compound as you will need to control the drift and it is hard to do at high speed with crap rubber.

As for high speed keep the same wheels as you have on the front as using the stock wheels will make it also harder to control.

Try stretching the rubber a bit to make the side walls have less flex.

Hope this has helped.

  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • roof rail delete used to be a thing, they were made locally for a while too
    • I can get more photos of it here soon and I plan to make a thread detailing the process. I received the car this way and it sorely needs refinishing. That is probably the most appealing photo of it. Up close it is fading, cracked, and needs to be re-glued. Depending on their condition I'm on the fence between refinishing or making a new set.  Another angle hiding the pimples and razor pumps  
    • According to this thread the RS4V with build plate RC40 comes with the R200 diff @ 4.083 ratio as well (mine has said RC40 denotation). We may need to check if the axle stubs are the same pattern as well. The auto subframes have longer axles. However I think yours being a later Series 2 as well, we should have the same bolt pattern for the diff stubs. Unless your upgraded rear also has upgraded axles. Either way, I would not be opposed to pulling the covers to check so I can inspect that  fancy rear core  Also I don't have HICAS. I don't believe that should change things but I hope the people here with heaps more experience than me can correct me if I'm wrong   Let me know if you want to attempt to make this work and I can get some pictures of mine from under the car. 
    • It's not that straightforward. For example I have had this code because my ignitor/power transistor wires were unplugged. It knows something is wrong but has no idea what it means. If you want to actually diagnose this I recommend following the service manual flowchart for code 21. Ohm out the harness, coilpacks, inspect the ECU, etc. And again, it's entirely possible for there to be no problem at all but if you're running a different coilpack it'll trigger the code because it doesn't like what it sees.
    • If it (the code) wasn't still current, it should have gone away by itself by now. No, nothing it 10/10. But it is quite likely. Everything else to do with the ignition could still be responsible (which is wires and connectors). The car is an old piece of shit now, so all the wires and connectors are also old pieces of shit.
×
×
  • Create New...