Jump to content
SAU Community

Diff Shenanigans

dark.sky

By dark.sky,
in South Australia

 Share

Recommended Posts

dark.sky Grand Master

dark.sky

Posted
Posted

Hey guys, so those of you who attended Kadina Show'n'Shine would remember what happened to Krishy's car. If you weren't there or were too drunk to remember, he took off, changed gears, and then the car just free revved in gear. Upon further inspection, you could see the tailshaft was spinning into the diff, but no drive coming out.

The diff, a Tomei 2 way 4.11, had been in the car for roughly 3 weeks, after being swapped into the place of the factory A-LSD unit found on some R33 GTS-t's.

With the car jacked up, the LH rear wheel would free spin by hand, and the RH rear wheel had a bit more resistance on it, and would also turn the tailshaft.

We drained out the oil, and saw nothing too major apart from some metal filings. Once out, the first thing we did was remove the cover, and much to our amazement, everything looked quite good and clean. Both of us were expecting to see major mechanical carnage.

We pulled the half shafts out the diff, to find the teeth from the LH side were shaven clean off, but only on the very end, almost like the shaft didnt go in far enough. When we pulled out the other side, it became evident that the 2 shafts were different. Both had 29 splines, and both were the same overall length, but the length of the 'middle portion' is different. I'm assuming this is not meant to be? It looks like the shaft from the LHS wasn't going far enough into the diff centre, and has simply sheared off. The diff centre appears to be fine and in working order, apart from the metal filings from the shaft.

post-50135-0-90705500-1313832412_thumb.jpg

LHS:

post-50135-0-75414700-1313832950_thumb.jpg

post-50135-0-46932500-1313833019_thumb.jpg

RHS:

post-50135-0-57075800-1313833037_thumb.jpg

post-50135-0-72898900-1313832968_thumb.jpg

Can anyone shed some light on this? It would be much appreciated :)

PS. If anyone knows how we can clear the metal filings out of the diff, that would be a great help too :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/374658-diff-shenanigans/
Share on other sites
Krishy Grand Master

Krishy

Posted
Posted

Thanks for chucking this thread up Dion. Really appreciate your help with this mate.

Yeah so as Dion has stated its pretty much looks like the 2 half shafts are off 2 different types and one not being long enough to engage into the center properly, which has caused it to sheer the teeth off. Everything else looks good. The working half shaft fits into either side and both sides seem to operate quiet well with that half shaft. All I now need is another half shaft that looks like the one out of the right hand side.

The Dan Grand Master

The Dan

Posted
Posted

You said you pulled out an A-LSD.

Did you change the driveshafts as well? You know the A-LSD is about 25mm wider than a standard R200 diff. Is it possible the attached driveshaft actually pulled the half shaft out of the diff slightly?

Krishy Grand Master

Krishy

Posted
Posted

Daniel the diff if from a non ALSD R33. The only things changed where the diff center to a tomei 2 way and the half shafts that do inside the diff. Everything else is still the same from my ALSD Car.

The Dan Grand Master

The Dan

Posted
Posted

Daniel the diff if from a non ALSD R33. The only things changed where the diff center to a tomei 2 way and the half shafts that do inside the diff. Everything else is still the same from my ALSD Car.

Then refer to my original post. The driveshafts (CV's + shaft) will be shorter in the A-LSD car because the A-LSD diff is 25mm wider at least. Not 100% sure whether or not it will be a problem but you should check that the driveshafts aren't pulling back on the half shafts.

I could be wrong as I have never physically disassembled the A-LSD driveshafts and compared them to standard driveshafts. They may just slide further out of the tripod CV on the hub side, not sure.

You should also check the half shaft length vs the centre depth to see if maybe they didn't go all the way in or something. The tin shield should go almost all the way up against the seal. If it doesn't, then it may not be all the way home.

dark.sky Grand Master

dark.sky

Posted
  • Author
Posted

When you slot the LH half shaft into the diff when outside the car, pushed all the way in, it just free turns, and doesnt spin the diff. Whereas if you put the RH side half shaft onto the LH side of the diff it works fine.

Meaning, when just the half shafts are in play, the LH still doesnt go into the centre far enough.

Tommy Kaira RL Mentor

Tommy Kaira RL

Posted
Posted

It looks like the left shaft would never of gone all the way in. Where it steps out its further up the spline than the other one. And its longer. And it also has ground the last 5mm off the splines. The splines would of gone all the way to the end.

Have you put the right shaft into the left side to see if it goes in ok.

I would guess you need another shaft like the right one.

Hey Krishy were any of those shafts off my blown NA diff that I gave you? Maybe the installer used some of them

Krishy Grand Master

Krishy

Posted
Posted

It looks like the left shaft would never of gone all the way in. Where it steps out its further up the spline than the other one. And its longer. And it also has ground the last 5mm off the splines. The splines would of gone all the way to the end.

Have you put the right shaft into the left side to see if it goes in ok.

I would guess you need another shaft like the right one.

Hey Krishy were any of those shafts off my blown NA diff that I gave you? Maybe the installer used some of them

Now as for that I cannot actually remember which one was from your diff and which one was from the new one that I bought. As there were many parts around the place and everything got mixed up.

So now I just need another half shaft that looks like the one that came out of the RHS, as that half shaft goes in both sides and can spin the diff without any problems.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • sinn3r
      R34 Skyline climate control unit transistor

      By sinn3r · Posted

      Hi all,   long time listener, first time caller   i was wondering if anyone can help me identify a transistor on the climate control unit board that decided to fry itself   I've circled it in the attached photo   any help would be appreciated
    • Kinkstaah
      Blue slip

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      I mean, I got two VASS engineers to refuse to cert my own coilovers stating those very laws. Appendix B makes it pretty clear what it considers 'Variable Suspension' to be. In my lived experience they can't certify something that isn't actually in the list as something that requires certification. In the VASS engineering checklist they have to complete (LS3/NCOP11) and sign on there is nothing there. All the references inside NCOP11 state that if it's variable by the driver that height needs to maintain 100mm while the car is in motion. It states the car is lowered lowering blocks and other types of things are acceptable. Dialling out a shock is about as 'user adjustable' as changing any other suspension component lol. I wanted to have it signed off to dissuade HWP and RWC testers to state the suspension is legal to avoid having this discussion with them. The real problem is that Police and RWC/Pink/Blue slip people will say it needs engineering, and the engineers will state it doesn't need engineering. It is hugely irritating when aforementioned people get all "i know the rules mate feck off" when they don't, and the actual engineers are pleasant as all hell and do know the rules. Cars failing RWC for things that aren't listed in the RWC requirements is another thing here entirely!
    • GTSBoy
      Best place to order Authetic R32 Parts in Japan

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      I don't. I mean, mine's not a GTR, but it is a 32 with a lot of GTR stuff on it. But regardless, I typically buy from local suppliers. Getting stuff from Japan is seldom worth the pain. Buying from RHDJapan usually ends up in the final total of your basket being about double what you thought it would be, after all the bullshit fees and such are added on.
    • GTSBoy
      Ethanol Content Sensor - Always at 11%?

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      The hydrocarbon component of E10 can be shittier, and is in fact, shittier, than that used in normal 91RON fuel. That's because the octane boost provided by the ethanol allows them to use stuff that doesn't make the grade without the help. The 1c/L saving typically available on E10 is going to be massively overridden by the increased consumption caused by the ethanol and the crappier HC (ie the HCs will be less dense, meaning that there will definitely be less energy per unit volume than for more dense HCs). That is one of the reasons why P98 will return better fuel consumption than 91 does, even with the ignition timing completely fixed. There is more energy per unit volume because the HCs used in 98 are higher density than in the lawnmower fuel.
    • GTSBoy
      Blue slip

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      No, I'd suggest that that is the checklist for pneumatic/hydraulic adjustable systems. I would say, based on my years of reading and complying with Australian Standards and similar regulations, that the narrow interpretation of Clause 3.2 b would be the preferred/expected/intended one, by the author, and those using the standard. Wishful thinking need not apply.
×
×
  • Create New...