Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Is a clutch most likely to slip at peak torque in lower gears list 1st and 2nd? Or in higher gears like 3rd and 4th? I always would have said the higher gears as there is far greater load, however my car feels VERY much like the clutch is slipping in 1st and 2nd, car takes off but it feels too smooth, as if the acceleration is trailing the revs. There is no smoke, tyre noise or black marks I can see but the tyres are fairly worn and don't always make noise.

It won't do it in 3rd and it will still slide 2nd very easily and make lots of noise then, the diff is starting to open up a lot so would you guys say this is more likely just a combination of single pegging wheelspin or a slipping clutch?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/375189-slipping-clutch-or-wheelspin/
Share on other sites

Best way to check ur clutch is to drive up a hill at around 60 in 4th or 5th and plant your foot, or take of from a stand still in 3rd or 4th with a little clutch dump, sounds a little harsh but it works, dont dump it at like 7k just at around 3k, you'll no straight away if your clutch is rooted.

It could be singling, my hr31 did that, when planting it in second i could single in a straight line with little smoke.

It only seems to be on peak torque, when reving to redline it doesn't do it. Might try dropping it in 3rd at 40 to get it on boost and see what happens.

I'm starting to think it is the diff opening up really badly as when it does start to kick it always kicks left now. Oh well was due for a replacement 1.5 way, the stocker sucks compared to what I've had in the past.

I just went through all this thinking the same. Mine open wheels some time as well. It was the clutch after all, and after the exedy button put in it's fine. The old clutch had meat still on the pucks but couldn't hold the power.

yeah clutch will always slip in higher gears under high load first. so as you said load it up from low rpm in 4th/5th and you'll quickly find out. even better if you can do it up an incline...

dunno what happened but today the tyres are noisy as f**k now, definitely wheelspin, must have looked like a dickhead driving to work Lol

wooooo new tyres o clock, still got 60% tread and are federal 595SS evos so not exactly bad tyres either, were great when new, oh well.

Edited by Rolls

dunno what happened but today the tyres are noisy as f**k now, definitely wheelspin, must have looked like a dickhead driving to work Lol

wooooo new tyres o clock, still got 60% tread and are federal 595SS evos so not exactly bad tyres either, were great when new, oh well.

I glad i found this been thinking my clutch is f*ked or diff is f*ked as something feels like its slipping but get no smoke.. i also have the same tyres with maybe 80% tread...

dropping 2nd grabs and it will also compression lock both wheels so i was a little confused that it could be the clutch..

might try shimming the dift first before changing tyres.

Is a clutch most likely to slip at peak torque in lower gears list 1st and 2nd? Or in higher gears like 3rd and 4th? I always would have said the higher gears as there is far greater load, however my car feels VERY much like the clutch is slipping in 1st and 2nd, car takes off but it feels too smooth, as if the acceleration is trailing the revs. There is no smoke, tyre noise or black marks I can see but the tyres are fairly worn and don't always make noise.

It won't do it in 3rd and it will still slide 2nd very easily and make lots of noise then, the diff is starting to open up a lot so would you guys say this is more likely just a combination of single pegging wheelspin or a slipping clutch?

yeah mine does same Rolls and i know its not clutch cause clutch isnt too old..

I know exactly what you mean too cause with a lot of older cars you can feel it when they break traction, but the skyline just sort of seamlessly goes from grip to slip to grip, its quite impressive actually..

how old are your 595's?? ive noticed on other peoples cars that they do stop gripping as well with time. regardless of how much tread is on them, they just seem to break down eventually. its the silica in them I've been told

mine are only as few months old. and very good atm :) but i drive my car every day, my tires never get a change to get old and slippery.

hey what tyres you going to upgrade to.. i know theres alot of threads on it, just wondering what you think is best value/grip..

The same ones, federals win hands down for value, kumho ku36s would be the next Id go to but they are a bit more pricey.

Running federal rsrs on the front which are incredible, when new the 595 evos were fantastic as well but they are about 12 months old and have taking a lot of abuse. Is also a daily car but it was off the road for about 5 months recently, probably the main issue.

Edited by Rolls
  • 4 weeks later...

I glad i found this been thinking my clutch is f*ked or diff is f*ked as something feels like its slipping but get no smoke.. i also have the same tyres with maybe 80% tread...

dropping 2nd grabs and it will also compression lock both wheels so i was a little confused that it could be the clutch..

might try shimming the dift first before changing tyres.

it was my clutch slipping pinch.gif

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The other problem was one of those "oh shit we are going to die moments". Basically the high spec Q50s have a full electric steering rack, and the povo ones had a regular hydraulic rack with an electric pump.  So couple of laps into session 5 as I came into turn 2 (big run off now, happily), the dash turned into a christmas tree and the steering became super heavy and I went well off. I assumed it was a tyre failure so limped to the pits, but everything was OK. But....the master warning light was still on so I checked the DTCs and saw – C13E6 “Heat Protection”. Yes, that bloody steering rack computer sitting where the oil cooler should be has its own sensors and error logic, and decided I was using the steering wheel too much. I really appreciated the helpful information in the manual (my bold) POSSIBLE CAUSE • Continuing the overloading steering (Sports driving in the circuit etc,) “DATA MONITOR” >> “C/M TEMPERATURE”. The rise of steering force motor internal temperature caused the protection function to operate. This is not a system malfunction. INSPECTION END So, basically the electric motor in the steering rack got to 150c, and it decided to shut down without warning for my safety. Didn't feel safe. Short term I'll see if I can duct some air to that motor (the engine bay is sealed pretty tight). Long term, depending on how often this happens, I'll look into swapping the povo spec electric/hydraulic rack in. While the rack should be fine the power supply to the pump will be a pain and might be best to deal with it when I add a PDM.
    • And finally, 2 problems I really need to sort.  Firstly as Matt said the auto trans is not happy as it gets hot - I couldn't log the temps but the gauge showed 90o. On the first day I took it out back in Feb, because the coolant was getting hot I never got to any auto trans issues; but on this day by late session 3 and then really clearly in 4 and 5 as it got hotter it just would not shift up. You can hear the issue really clearly at 12:55 and 16:20 on the vid. So the good news is, literally this week Ecutek finally released tuning for the jatco 7 speed. I'll have a chat to Racebox and see what they can do electrically to keep it cooler and to get the gears, if anything. That will likely take some R&D and can only really happen on track as it never gets even warm with road use. I've also picked up some eye wateringly expensive Redline D6 ATF to try, it had the highest viscosity I could find at 100o so we will see if that helps (just waiting for some oil pan gaskets so I can change it properly). If neither of those work I need to remove the coolant/trans interwarmer and the radiator cooler and go to an external cooler....somewhere.....(goodbye washer reservoir?), and if that fails give up on this mad idea and wait for Nissan to release the manual 400R
    • So, what else.... Power. I don't know what it is making because I haven't done a post tune dyno run yet; I will when I get a chance. It was 240rwkw dead stock. Conclusion from the day....it does not need a single kw more until I sort some other stuff. It comes on so hard that I could hear the twin N1 turbos on the R32 crying, and I just can't use what it has around a tight track with the current setup. Brakes. They are perfect. Hit them hard all day and they never felt like having an issue; you can see in the video we were making ground on much lighter cars on better tyres under brakes. They are standard (red sport) calipers, standard size discs in DBA5000 2 piece, Winmax pads and Motul RBF600 fluid, all from Matty at Racebrakes Sydney. Keeping in mind the car is more powerful than my R32 and weighs 1680, he clearly knows his shit. Suspension. This is one of the first areas I need to change. It has electronically controlled dampers from factory, but everything is just way too soft for track work even on the hardest setting (it is nice when hustling on country roads though). In particular it rolls into oversteer mid corner and pitches too much under hard braking so it becomes unstable eg in the turn 1 kink I need to brake early, turn through the kink then brake again so I don't pirouette like an AE86. I need to get some decent shocks with matched springs and sway bars ASAP, even if it is just a v1 setup until I work out a proper race/rally setup later. Tyres. I am running Yoko A052 in 235/45/18 all round, because that was what I could get in approximately the right height on wheels I had in the shed (Rays/Nismo 18x8 off the old Leaf actually!). As track tyres they are pretty poor; I note GTSBoy recently posted a porker comparo video including them where they were about the same as AD09.....that is nothing like a top line track tyre. I'll start getting that sorted but realistically I should get proper sized wheels first (likely 9.5 +38 front and 11 +55 at the rear, so a custom order, and I can't rotate them like the R32), then work out what the best tyre option is. BTW on that, Targa Tas had gone to road tyres instead of semi slicks now so that is a whole other world of choices to sort. Diff. This is the other thing that urgently needs to be addressed. It left massive 1s out of the fish hook all day, even when I was trying not too (you can also hear it reving on the video, and see the RPM rising too fast compared to speed in the data). It has an open diff that Infiniti optimistically called a B-LSD for "Brake Limited Slip Diff". It does good straight line standing start 11s but it is woeful on the track. Nismo seem to make a 2 way for it.
    • Also, I logged some data from the ECU for each session (mostly oil pressures and various temps, but also speed, revs etc, can't believe I forgot accelerator position). The Ecutek data loads nicely to datazap, I got good data from sessions 2, 3 and 4: https://datazap.me/u/duncanhandleyhgeconsultingcomau/250813-wakefield-session-2?log=0&data=7 https://datazap.me/u/duncanhandleyhgeconsultingcomau/250813-wakefield-session-3?log=0&data=6 https://datazap.me/u/duncanhandleyhgeconsultingcomau/250813-wakefield-session-4?log=0&data=6 Each session is cut into 3 files but loaded together, you can change between them in the top left. As the test sessions are mostly about the car, not me, I basically start by checking the oil pressure (good, or at least consistent all day). These have an electrically controlled oil pump which targets 25psi(!) at low load and 50 at high. I'm running a much thicker oil than recommended by nissan (they said 0w20, I'm running 10w40) so its a little higher. The main thing is that it doesn't drop too far, eg in the long left hand fish hook, or under brakes so I know I'm not getting oil surge. Good start. Then Oil and Coolant temp, plus intercooler and intake temps, like this: Keeping in mind ambient was about 5o at session 2, I'd say the oil temp is good. The coolant temp as OK but a big worry for hot days (it was getting to 110 back in Feb when it was 35o) so I need to keep addressing that. The water to air intercooler is working totally backwards where we get 5o air in the intake, squish/warm it in the turbos (unknown temp) then run it through the intercoolers which are say 65o max in this case, then the result is 20o air into the engine......the day was too atypical to draw a conclusion on that I think, in the united states of freedom they do a lot of upsizing the intercooler and heat exchanger cores to get those temps down but they were OK this time. The other interesting (but not concerning) part for me was the turbo speed vs boost graph: I circled an example from the main straight. With the tune boost peaks at around 18psi but it deliberately drops to about 14psi at redline because the turbos are tiny - they choke at high revs and just create more heat than power if you run them hard all the way. But you can also see the turbo speed at the same time; it raises from about 180,000rpm to 210,000rpm which the boost falls....imagine the turbine speed if they held 18psi to redline. The wastegates are electrically controlled so there is a heap of logic about boost target, actual boost, delta etc etc but it all seems to work well
    • hahah when youtube subscribers are faster than my updates here. Yes some vid from the day is up, here:  Note that as with all track day videos it is boring watching after the bloopers at the start.  The off was a genuine surprise to me, I've literally done a thousand laps around the place and I've never had instability there; basically it rolled into oversteer, slipped, gripped and spat me out. On the way off I mowed down one of the instructor's cones and it sat there all day looking at me with accusing cone eyes as I drove past. 1:13:20 was my fastest lap, and it was in the second session, 3rd lap.  It (or me!) got slower throughout the day as it got hotter.      
×
×
  • Create New...