Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 54
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

Any particular reason (besides being blue)? ;)

wow, this is a blast from the past. sorry i didnt reply back then.

well there are a couple of reasons i like the greddy ones.

1. they look nicest of all the ones out there (to me).

2. they are a hardened duralumin outer gear (so wont wear like the old HKS ones did)

3. they have plenty of locking bolts to prevent the wheel slipping after adjustment

4. they have very clearly marked/etched increments on the wheel which i can read even through the clear cover (obviously the exhaust wheel is covered by CAS though...)

5. they match my greddy timing belt and clear cover. hehe

6. they bolted straight on with no dramas at all (important one).

if you haven't got cams or cam gears yet lucien i would say do it. it will be the best few hundred bucks you spend.

wow, this is a blast from the past. sorry i didnt reply back then.

well there are a couple of reasons i like the greddy ones.

1. they look nicest of all the ones out there (to me).

2. they are a hardened duralumin outer gear (so wont wear like the old HKS ones did)

3. they have plenty of locking bolts to prevent the wheel slipping after adjustment

4. they have very clearly marked/etched increments on the wheel which i can read even through the clear cover (obviously the exhaust wheel is covered by CAS though...)

5. they match my greddy timing belt and clear cover. hehe

6. they bolted straight on with no dramas at all (important one).

if you haven't got cams or cam gears yet lucien i would say do it. it will be the best few hundred bucks you spend.

Thanks Beer baron I believe you have a GTR though. Im wondering on the results for RB25, RB20 with standard turbos

cheers

wow, this is a blast from the past. sorry i didnt reply back then.

well there are a couple of reasons i like the greddy ones.

1. they look nicest of all the ones out there (to me).

2. they are a hardened duralumin outer gear (so wont wear like the old HKS ones did)

3. they have plenty of locking bolts to prevent the wheel slipping after adjustment

4. they have very clearly marked/etched increments on the wheel which i can read even through the clear cover (obviously the exhaust wheel is covered by CAS though...)

5. they match my greddy timing belt and clear cover. hehe

6. they bolted straight on with no dramas at all (important one).

if you haven't got cams or cam gears yet lucien i would say do it. it will be the best few hundred bucks you spend.

Ar, ta for that. Wonder why they stopped making them? I had a set of OS Giken wheels installed last week which I bought through Pete (he can probably get more if you need some). Still have some issues to sort though (Nath says timing is jumping around and he can only connect to the ECU when the enginr is off which is all very annoying).

Ar, ta for that. Wonder why they stopped making them? I had a set of OS Giken wheels installed last week which I bought through Pete (he can probably get more if you need some). Still have some issues to sort though (Nath says timing is jumping around and he can only connect to the ECU when the enginr is off which is all very annoying).

are you sure they dont make them? there were very much for sale when i was in japan this year? a lot of japanese companies have stopped making products though due to general down turn of the tuning scene in japan so i guess it's possible. but greddy seemed to be one of the few japanese tuners bucking the trend.

Ar, ta for that. Wonder why they stopped making them? I had a set of OS Giken wheels installed last week which I bought through Pete (he can probably get more if you need some). Still have some issues to sort though (Nath says timing is jumping around and he can only connect to the ECU when the enginr is off which is all very annoying).

hmm i wonder if it's directly related to the brand of cam gear, of if it's something else entirely. nathan did the greddy ones for me and they went in flawlessly. no drama with install, or running etc.

are you sure they dont make them? there were very much for sale when i was in japan this year? a lot of japanese companies have stopped making products though due to general down turn of the tuning scene in japan so i guess it's possible. but greddy seemed to be one of the few japanese tuners bucking the trend.

My bad, I was confusing them with Apexi

hmm i wonder if it's directly related to the brand of cam gear, of if it's something else entirely. nathan did the greddy ones for me and they went in flawlessly. no drama with install, or running etc.

Nope, the problem predates the cam install (I'm thinking perhaps the CAS is had it or the ECU has lost it). Nathan thought the cams I supplied might be copies because of the Otomoto logo on them, but AFAIK all their stuff has their logo silkscreened on and the cam gears themselves looked like really well made bits of kit.

ahh i didnt know you put cams in too, what cams are they?

sounds like it could be cas failure though. possibly that last removal/refit was the final nail.

LOL. I'm not doing well this afternoon. By "cam install" I meant cam wheel install. My point was that OS G wheels are very nice and people shouldn't shy away from them.

You could be right about the CAS, but its still weird that the ECU doesn't want to talk unless the engine is off. Anyway, this is probably offtopic :P

  • 11 months later...
Dunno about RB20 but R33 RB25's get good gains from cam gears but NEO's don't.

Im also interested in putting Poncam 260 deg with cam gears for intake & exhaust. And i know the intake cannot be adjusted due to the VTC. How much gain if just with the cam gear with stock cams compare to Poncam 260 deg with stock turbo.Im currently getting 284 whp from my recent dyno at 0.85 Boost (running really rich). Not sure which is the next mod i should do first , ECU (HKS Fcon Vpro) or Cams (Poncams) or change the turbo (have a HKS TO4E with HKS cast manifold with external gate waiting).

Wonder what will the gain & drivability for the next mod...?

I just want to clarify that just because there might not always be any gains in overall power output, that it's not a worthwhile modification. For example I'm using them to give me more power low down (advance timing) at the expense of top end, as this suits my style of driving.

Oh and you can show off your new cam gears with a clear cam cover for your RB20 or RB25 :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Apologies for the long post, but needed somewhere to lay out the entire timeline of events and actions taken:   I've got an 89 GTR with a R34 RB in it. It's been running great all year, driven probably 500KM in the last month. It's not my daily driver, just a weekend fun car.    Build info: R34 RB26 - HKS 2.7 stroker kit, HKS adjustable cam gears, HKS turbo upgrades, Trust intercooler, R34 factory DENSO 440cc injectors, JUN chipped/tuned R32 ECU. All of this work was performed in Japan back in 2019.    Thursday 10/2/25 - It's a nice day and decided I'll drive it to work, I start it up in the garage and I notice it took a few extra cranks and sounded a bit funny. I figure maybe it was just because it was a pretty chilly morning. I pull it out into the driveway to warm up a bit before leaving. As I leave the driveway, it feels very off and sounds like a misfire. I pull it back in the garage to deal with after work and take the daily to work. I was able to diagnose it as a cylinder 5 misfire with the old spark plug test (unplugging each plug until a sound change with the engine running). I take off the whole ignition system, ignitor, plugs, spark. *Important note, it is still on the R32 ignition system with the separate ignitor system. I test each system with a multi-meter and nothing presents as a smoking gun. I put it all back together and it starts up no issue. I go ahead and order the PRP R35 ignition conversion kit. It should arrive today (10/13/25)   Friday 10/3/25 - Another nice day, car starts up great and drives great all day. Very pleased that everything seems to be OK   Sunday 10/5/25 - Decided I'll take it to play some golf, load up and drive to the course about 25 minutes away. Drives wonderful the whole way there, I pull in the parking lot and the engine completely comes to a stop. I do not recall if it sputtered at all, but just remember all of the sudden the engine was off. I roll it into a parking spot, try to crank it back on and nothing.  It'll crank and crank and not even try to start. End up getting it towed back to my house and push it up into the garage.    Items I have checked: Fuel in the tank Fuel Pump relay Fuel pump fuse  Spark Plugs & gap Coil packs Ignitor    I know the cylinders are getting fuel as the plugs smell like fuel after a start attempt. I tried spraying starter fluid into the manifold and cranking and not even a sputter.    I decided to do the live CAS test (removing the the CAS, ignition on and spinning the CAS stalk to see if the injectors pulse and spark is active). All of the injectors were pulsing and I have spark at the plug. The half-moon end of the CAS did seem very loose, I'm not sure how much play is supposed to be there, but it was more than I expected. There was no in/out play of the shaft, just the tip end that is pinned on had quite a bit of play.    CAS Play video   When I put the CAS back in, I stupidly did not re-time the engine. I know I need to do that tonight, however, I do not think it will start given it seemingly was not the issue. My plan is to do the PRP R35 coil kit and retime the engine at the same time.    I plan on ordering the Haltech Nexus Plug-in ECU once they are available again, but ideally would like to get this sorted before firing the parts cannon at it and potentially adding more variables.    Anything glaring that I am missing here, I'm a bit at a loss?          
    • Get it on a dyno. Get something logging Consult. Run it up and find out what is causing it.
    • Looking for a plenum for rb25 de+t neo  Not looking to push much power maybe 300kw at the wheels, is there much difference in flow for Freddy “Greddy style” compared to original Greddy or options like Proflow or Otaku garage?    I won’t be porting the de Neo head for now as I think it’ll be fine 280-300rwkw but appreciate the help and any experiences anyone has between them and any advice. Thanks  Looking at this plenum for now below 
    • engine wise almost no mods: stock ecu Greddy front mount intercooler Greddy forward facing intake w R33 TB stock fuel system, stock injectors, rail etc. Kakimoto racing hyper 3 inch exhaust system Apexi intake filter New NGK –R BCPRES (.8 gap) plugs  
    • Nice one @Pac - looks like a fair few 1600's there! 
×
×
  • Create New...