Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Well I finally had my GReddy Ex Cam Gear (bought from www.nengun.com) installed (-4) at www.uniqueautosports.com.au yesterday and immediately noticed a difference. I noticed at the drags recently that my top end seemed to be flat and well the dyno graphs showed that.

Kudo's to John, Adam and Ben at UAS. Just need to get my Clutch bits'n'pieces sorted out now and i'll be back at the drags aiming for that mid-high 13sec.

Mods:

RB25DET - 88,000km

Standard ECU

Standard Turbo

Sports Organic Clutch (Daiken Exedy)

FMIC (Micks Metal Craft)

TurboXS Dual-Stage boost controller (not holding boost)

3" Front/Dump pipe (custom)

3" Cat (custom)

3" Cat-back (Nismo)

Panel Filter (K&N)

Bosch 040 Intank Fuel Pump

GReddy Ex Cam Gear (-4)

= 186rwkw

Before/After

post-1296-1163913949.jpg

Edited by benm
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/37541-ex-cam-gear-beforeafter/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 54
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

That's a really good result you've got there. I didn't get anywhere near that improvement with mine. In fact I'd say that my cam gear install has just shifted the power band up the rev range a bit and put a dip in my torque curve. I wonder how they minimised the dip at the bottom of the torque curve that I've noticed most people get on yours. I'd be happy with that result Ben.

Looks like you've got yourself a factory ECU that likes to play the game! Very lucky!

My factory ECU headed for sub 10's A/FR territory as soon as any additional AFM voltage was recorded (i.e more boost, cam adjustments and so on...)

Hay it's funy cause with the cam gear install you got rid of the flatspot up high.

Sure did, fixed the problem that I wanted fixed most... I need better TS at the drags :D

Why, I have no idea, but I love it  :DJ

Have you got a '95 ECU like me ?

Nope, I've got a 93 ECU...

I'll find a link to my dyno sheet, my flatspot was worse than yours and seems to have gone. Sometimes I can feel that it's back (but no where as bad) but then it goes again..

Damn ECU crap..

J

Edit: Here it is.... http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...ead.php?t=33043

  • 4 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah well per the video it took 15s for the stock unit to start up....even if I give it a few seconds discount for starting that is at least 12 sec before you get a reverse camera if you are trying to leave a park.  The android unit is way faster, but 2016 for the stock unit is a long time ago in consumer electronics
    • Yea that’s why I said ima test them with multimeter and see the reads.
    • Only at idle. Isn’t a problem when rev it seems.
    • @Haggerty This seems silly to ask, but are you confident in your ability to tune the Haltech?  
    • Next on the to-do list was an oil and filter change. Nothing exciting to add here except the oil filter is in a really stupid place (facing the engine mount/subframe/steering rack). GReddy do a relocation kit which puts it towards the gearbox, I would have preferred towards the front but there's obviously a lot more stuff there. Something I'll have to look at for the next service perhaps. First time using Valvoline oil, although I can't see it being any different to most other brands Nice... The oil filter location... At least the subframe wont rust any time soon I picked up a genuine fuel filter, this is part of the fuel pump assembly inside the fuel tank. Access can be found underneath the rear seat, you'll see this triangular cover Remove the 3x plastic 10mm nuts and lift the cover up, pushing the rubber grommet through The yellow fuel line clips push out in opposite directions, remove these completely. The two moulded fuel lines can now pull upwards to disconnect, along with the wire electrical plug. There's 8x 8mm bolts that secure the black retaining ring. The fuel pump assembly is now ready to lift out. Be mindful of the fuel hose on the side, the hose clamp on mine was catching the hose preventing it from lifting up The fuel pump/filter has an upper and lower section held on by 4 pressure clips. These did take a little bit of force, it sounded like the plastic tabs were going to break but they didn't (don't worry!) The lower section helps mount the fuel pump, there's a circular rubber gasket/grommet/seal thing on the bottom where the sock is. Undo the hose clip on the short fuel hose on the side to disconnect it from the 3 way distribution pipe to be able to lift the upper half away. Don't forget to unplug the fuel pump too! There's a few rubber O rings that will need transferring to the new filter housing, I show these in the video at the bottom of this write up. Reassembly is the reverse Here's a photo of the new filter installed, you'll be able to see where the tabs are more clearing against the yellow OEM plastic Once the assembly is re-installed, I turned the engine over a few times to help build up fuel pressure. I did panic when the car stopped turning over but I could hear the fuel pump making a noise. It eventually started and has been fine since. Found my 'lucky' coin underneath the rear seat too The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uLJ65pmQt44&t=6s
×
×
  • Create New...