Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 54
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Then R35 hands down.

Unless there is something about the R34 that you really must have????

I guess the performance of R35 is in a different league to the 34,

however............... i would still love to own a R34 as well! :)

Its just the raw sexyness and reputation and that keeps bringing me back to the R34.

Yes, Ive also heard you have to dump tens of thousands in to A R34 to bring it up to match the R35 performance.

But I want a R34 as close to standard as possible and I'll hold on to it. Already getting hard to find one which hasnt been 2 worked.

Stock for stock, the 34 is nowhere near the level of a 35.

The 35 is also the only car that has put a smile on my face without a clutch pedal, going from 35 back to an rb model you really feel the age of the 'old' gtr's.

For reference a stock 35 gtr does tsukuba in same time as z tune 34, which is regarded as the best goin street 34.

34 wins on price an maintenance though, unless u do it up you will not have maintenance costs like u see from r35.

For everything else, but pointless back seats, the 35 wins imo. So easy to drive, so fast, no lag, torque in any gear ( an amount you can only dream of from a rb ) great handling etc.

If money is not a problem I'd pick a r35 if I was you, the hype on them is well justified!!!

What cars are you coming from?

Hello, R33 GTR, R33 S2 GTST, 5x R34 GT-T, V35, Evo VII, Mercedes W211 E500, 350Z convertible, 350Z coupe. Thats all i can think of at the moment.

What i observed is the older nissan cars I've owned seemed 2 be better build quality than my newer nissans that ive had.

With my V35 and both of my 350z's I was getting sick of the power window faults, central locking faults, weak gearbox synchros, tears in the roof of the convertible - etc. All from design faults and sh*t parts. And u replace them with genuine spares which are also sh*t parts and its only a matter of time before it happens again.

With R34 u know the design faults already (stuff like rust around boot brake light). Im hoping that these similar issues i mentioned above dont pop up in the R35 over the next few years.

But R35 is such a sexy car aswell, they look fantastic every time i see them.

1318288390[/url]' post='6054986']

as a hobbiest detailer i couldnt fathom having my cars washed by low paid indian students, but then again everyone has diff priorities in life and some have other things to do instead of busting out the karcher etc on a weekend

nor would i simply high pressure the panels and then wipe all the dirt into the super soft nissan clear coat with a shamwow

op if you want someone to look after your car, shoot me a pm, i can recommend you a mobile detailer in your state who will do an at home wash

Would it be okay if they were low paid white-skinned students dominoz?

Its just the raw sexyness and reputation and that keeps bringing me back to the R34.

Yes, Ive also heard you have to dump tens of thousands in to A R34 to bring it up to match the R35 performance.

But I want a R34 as close to standard as possible and I'll hold on to it. Already getting hard to find one which hasnt been 2 worked.

much respect to the R34 but you need a ride in the R35 - its godlike in every way

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi all, Restoring r33 series 1 rb25det. All the heater hoses were on their way out, have replaced them and put it all back together. After testing I noticed a small leak from behind the head on the actual metal water line to the turbo when cars warm. I tried running a longer hose over it but it kept leaking...   I am about to take the (stock) manifold off again😔 to change the water line does any one have any lines they recommend? I was looking at Aeroflow Turbo Oil & Water Line Set but not sure what everyone else recommends. Car is completely stock but want to upgrade turbo eventually. it looks like ill have to disconnect a lot just to replace these lines so if there's anything else recommended to do please let me know. Thank you in advance!
    • From memory, on the R33 GTSt at least, while everyone says "It's not adjustable", I found when I changed clutches in mine, it just needed a small adjustment on the rod length. But be very wary here, as you could end up trying to push the pushrod in the master too far, or blowing out the slave.   Most likely though, if the master/slave isn't bypassing internally or leaking out, then the throw out is the wrong height compared to the fingers on the clutch, so when it moves to disengage the clutch, it isn't 100% disengaged. You can check part of this out too by jacking the car up, having the engine running, put your foot on the clutch and try to engage 1st gear. If it goes in pretty easy (Compared to the ground) and/or the wheels start turning a fair bit and it takes a bit too much brake pedal to bring them back to a stop, this is likely the issue.  I'm not sure if you can adjust the height of the forks etc in these though, it's been that long since I've touched any RB gearbox.
    • That's all good, I thought I was missing some interesting feature! Maybe @PranK can double check if that is something that is meant to be operating or not.
    • I hope that is not something that bad. From what i remember he said that only first gear is "hard" to get in and that he has couple of ideas what to try next but idk 😕  hope it is not gearbox out. I will let you know.
    • If it's not the hydraulics, it is probably gearbox back out. Usually as per @Duncan's post, or otherwise associated with not getting the throwout fork positioned correctly. All the way up to catastrophically bolting shit back together without it being aligned properly and wrecking the clutch/input shaft/flywheel/something else.
×
×
  • Create New...