Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey people..

Just wondering if any of you have heard about or use 'FOCAL' gear in your cars.

I'm looking at the poly glass 165vb for the fronts.

165cvx for the rears.

33v2 sub

With focal 4 channel and a mono amps.

Any feedback is greatly appreciated.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/375703-brand-focal/
Share on other sites

One of the best speaker manufacturers in the world (home audio and car audio).

I have a set of Polyglass splits and coaxials running through an amp and love them to death.

If you think of it as cars, Focal are like a Ferrari.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/375703-brand-focal/#findComment-5992033
Share on other sites

also - buy them from a dealer and NOT off the net. there are copies floating around on ebay that will pass as originals until you listen to them.

I agree with chris, dont by off the net, they make some really good made in china copies.

Focals overrated IMO so many better choices for the money.

Focal amps, hmmmm NO not even on my radar for SQ or SPL, unless your brand loyal sooo many better choices. IMO

Focal subs, fine for SQ, but once again many better and cheaper choices, unless your brand loyal in a generic box they will sound horrible

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/375703-brand-focal/#findComment-5994407
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

:thanks: for all the feed back people.

think im going to go for an alpine type r system instead :yes:

As long as you're going the splits then this is a great choice... I'm yet to hear something that I rate higher than the Type-R splits. But the coaxial and 6x9's are fkn terrible.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/375703-brand-focal/#findComment-6030858
Share on other sites

man I wish I knew how Alpine brainwashes so many people, Type R are mid range speakers at best LOL

Bang for buck they are quality. Sure there's better stuff available for 10x the price, but I'm not after competition level stuff. I've tried plenty of speaker combinations for around that price bracket, nothing I've heard compares.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/375703-brand-focal/#findComment-6031735
Share on other sites

man I wish I knew how Alpine brainwashes so many people, Type R are mid range speakers at best LOL

And they appear to be priced accordingly?

What would you recommend then? I've noticed my factory ones seem to have given up the ghost on the weekend, so I'm on the lookout for some.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/375703-brand-focal/#findComment-6032131
Share on other sites

And they appear to be priced accordingly?

What would you recommend then? I've noticed my factory ones seem to have given up the ghost on the weekend, so I'm on the lookout for some.

I'd give any of these a listen, in the lowish to mid range price around 250-400 bucks , some as low as 100 bucks a pair, not flash looking or fancy but sound fine.

there are other brands but they have to be imported to OZ.

Morel got the best splits award for under 300 bucks

vifa

bostons

dynaudio.

kenwood some models

pioneer some models

DLS

Seas

Infinity some models

MB Quarts

Audax

kicker

soundstream

rockford fosgate

PPI

orion

clarion

JL audio

Polk

Blaupunkt

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/375703-brand-focal/#findComment-6032343
Share on other sites

I'd give any of these a listen, in the lowish to mid range price around 250-400 bucks , some as low as 100 bucks a pair, not flash looking or fancy but sound fine.

there are other brands but they have to be imported to OZ.

Morel got the best splits award for under 300 bucks

vifa

bostons

dynaudio.

kenwood some models

pioneer some models

DLS

Seas

Infinity some models

MB Quarts

Audax

kicker

soundstream

rockford fosgate

PPI

orion

clarion

JL audio

Polk

Blaupunkt

Do the Morels need to be amped to get the best out of them (sorry if that sounds like a noob question)

Mike.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/375703-brand-focal/#findComment-6034607
Share on other sites

all speakers sound better with more power then the deck can provide, as long as the power is clean, not a 20 dollar amp sound

most decks can only push 20 watts per channel REAL WORLD power even if they say 50 watts, that can be a very distorted power level.

and you can use the xover on the amp (most cases these days ) to protect the mids/tweets from low bass if your using a sub ?

Morels can be touchy if you dont baffle the mids right or mount tight and flat. its easy to over extend the coils and fry them if you dont even with 50 watts they can flap like a bird . they like some resistance behind them otherwise its like running them in free air without a box ? its because the suspension is designed way different then most brands to move fast and clear. without a bafffel you wont like the sound. a bafffe can be as simple as a peice of thin grill cloth stretched on the hole behind them. and some pillow stuffing , not touching the speaker or it will buzz. 10 bucks to do it nothing serious but use care to do it !!

Alpine Tupe X

Lanzar Opti 6

DLS

and a few others are the same as morels and like some baffle . I know I have some..lol but they run a 3" Voice coil and handle 600watts each , like a sub does. most 6 inch mids run a 1 or 1.5 inch coil and handle 80-200 watts

any mid can sound smoother/punchier with a baffle but the above need it without a doubt

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/375703-brand-focal/#findComment-6035175
Share on other sites

Rather than start a new thread, thought I'd just ask here.

I did a fair bit of research, and ended up dealing with a mob that were recommended on CAA. They recommended the following for my Stag:

Front components: Focal 165KR

Rear co-axials: Focal 165CVX

Amplifier: Hertz HDP4

Another option was to leave the standard rears and go with Focal 165KRX2 (200W vs 160W).

Has anyone used any of those and got any suggestions/feedback? 165KRs seem to get rave reviews, and the amp seems to have the power to run everything.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/375703-brand-focal/#findComment-6038243
Share on other sites

One of the best speaker manufacturers in the world (home audio and car audio).

I have a set of Polyglass splits and coaxials running through an amp and love them to death.

If you think of it as cars, Focal are like a Ferrari.

Not to sound rude, but this is fairly incorrect. Focal make very nice speaker systems there is no doubt, but of the best is debatable.

I say there is something better on offer for every focal model released, money wise.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/375703-brand-focal/#findComment-6041721
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • If as it's stalling, the fuel pressure rises, it's saying there's less vacuum in the intake manifold. This is pretty typical of an engine that is slowing down.   While typically is agree it sounds fuel related, it really sounds fuel/air mixture related. Since the whole system has been refurbished, including injectors, pump, etc, it's likely we've altered how well the system is delivering fuel. If someone before you has messed with the IACV because it needed fiddling with as the fuel system was dieing out, we need to readjust it back. Getting things back to factory spec everywhere, is what's going to help the entire system. So if it idles at 400rpm with no IACV, that needs raising. Getting factory air flow back to normal will help us get everything back in spec, and likely help chase down any other issues. Back on IACV, if the base idle (no IACV plugged in) is too far out, it's a lot harder for the ECU to control idle. The IACV duty cycle causes non linear variations in reality. When I've tuned the idle valves in the past, you need to keep it in a relatively narrow window on aftermarket ecus to stop them doing wild dances. It also means if your base idle is too low, the valve needs to open too much, and then the smallest % change ends up being a huge variation.
    • I guess one thing that might be wrong is the manifold pressure.  It is a constant -5.9 and never moves even under 100% throttle and load.  I would expect it to atleast go to 0 correct?  It's doing this with the OEM MAP as well as the ECU vacuum sensor. When trying to tune the base map under load the crosshairs only climb vertically with RPM, but always in the -5.9 column.
    • AHHHH gotchaa, I'll do that once I am home again. I tried doing the harness with the multimeter but it seems the car needed a jump, there was no power when it was in the "ON" position. Not sure if I should use car battery jump starter or if its because the stuff that has been disconnect the car just does send power.
    • As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
    • It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
×
×
  • Create New...