Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Rather than start a new thread, thought I'd just ask here.

I did a fair bit of research, and ended up dealing with a mob that were recommended on CAA. They recommended the following for my Stag:

Front components: Focal 165KR

Rear co-axials: Focal 165CVX

Amplifier: Hertz HDP4

Another option was to leave the standard rears and go with Focal 165KRX2 (200W vs 160W).

Has anyone used any of those and got any suggestions/feedback? 165KRs seem to get rave reviews, and the amp seems to have the power to run everything.

What is your budget mate? For a 165KR I'm guessing you're looking at spending $700 on speakers? Have you considered something from brands such as Rainbow, Morel, Audison? They all offer very nice speakers in your price range, you may find they offer a much more dynamic tweeter, and more midbass from both Rainbow and Audison.

But if you were set on the gear you have chosen (and don't get me wrong, it is lovely gear) I would abobroad minded personely ditch the rears and spend your whole budget on the fronts. Sound quality competition cars do not run rear speakers, for the best sound quality you want all the sound coming from in front of you. This is best for your soundstage. I would not even consider rears in a coupe, if your car is a coupe.

Rather than start a new thread, thought I'd just ask here.

I did a fair bit of research, and ended up dealing with a mob that were recommended on CAA. They recommended the following for my Stag:

Front components: Focal 165KR

Rear co-axials: Focal 165CVX

Amplifier: Hertz HDP4

Another option was to leave the standard rears and go with Focal 165KRX2 (200W vs 160W).

Has anyone used any of those and got any suggestions/feedback? 165KRs seem to get rave reviews, and the amp seems to have the power to run everything.

yeah Im sure that sounds pretty good, but wasn't cheap , but using factory rear with high end fronts on a amp is like having 500hp and drum brakes on 4 wheels. you can do it but you shouldn't ..lol

the factory rear option is only for some systems .

and dont be fooled not all SQ cars run just front stage, most real live music has reverberation and reflections with delays(unless its outdoors on the grass) if you listen to it live.!!!! it gives it texture . Im not talking a pair of deck mounted 6x9's being fed from a 300 watt 50 dollar amp . but actual quality speakers setup with RTA and decent amp. turned to perfection , not driven to excess. its like closing your eyes and thinking your not in a small car but in a concert stage ??

why do you think car radio companies strive to put Dolby/THX or similar surround in a car. ? not just for DVD's for kids in back seats

Edited by Carbon 34

yeah Im sure that sounds pretty good, but wasn't cheap , but using factory rear with high end fronts on a amp is like having 500hp and drum brakes on 4 wheels. you can do it but you shouldn't ..lol

the factory rear option is only for some systems .

and dont be fooled not all SQ cars run just front stage, most real live music has reverberation and reflections with delays(unless its outdoors on the grass) if you listen to it live.!!!! it gives it texture . Im not talking a pair of deck mounted 6x9's being fed from a 300 watt 50 dollar amp . but actual quality speakers setup with RTA and decent amp. turned to perfection , not driven to excess. its like closing your eyes and thinking your not in a small car but in a concert stage ??

why do you think car radio companies strive to put Dolby/THX or similar surround in a car. ? not just for DVD's for kids in back seats

The tuning required to run a proper rear stage is quite large, most people would not have the possibility of tuning it properly. And even so, what would you really gain from running a rear stage? If anything the depth would be worse.

I am a novice when it comes to sound quality, I have only been competing for two years. Though I have learnt a fair bit in the two years competing, and the years before that with car stereo.

I have yet to see a car do well with a rear stage in MEA sanctioned SQ Competitions, nor have I seen any of the current Australian number 1 competitors use a rear stage

I disagree with most surround sound in cars, even the like of Bose/Dolby as you mentioned, they are often poorly setup in my opinion, I've listened to $7000 optioned Bose stereo's in brand new Alfa Romeos only to have it sound poor.

For people here, with a limited budget, in a 2 door coupe, rear speakers would be a waste of money and and would only on occasion benefit the passengers.

If the whole speaker budget was spent on the fronts only and a decent amp to run them, the person driving would be much happier.

I'd understand running stockies in the back in a coupe perhaps, but this is a Stagea, and I was planning on replacing the rears because I have passengers from time to time and I also have some buzzing from the rear speakers (hence replacing the lot).

I don't really thing I have anywhere in Adelaide I can try Rainbow, Morel or Audison. I'm not sure how much I should spend for something that sounds nice. Doesn't have to be huge dollars usually.

Initially I was looking at JL Audio C3650 for front and rear, but by the time I bought a suitable amp it seemed like similar money, not including the install and deadening.

The tuning required to run a proper rear stage is quite large, most people would not have the possibility of tuning it properly. And even so, what would you really gain from running a rear stage? If anything the depth would be worse.

I am a novice when it comes to sound quality, I have only been competing for two years. Gee 2 years, my first install is most likely older then you are ??? My first big 3 way system was in 1986 in USA a much bigger market !! Though I have learnt a fair bit in the two years competing, and the years before that with car stereo.

I have yet to see a car do well with a rear stage in MEA sanctioned SQ Competitions, nor have I seen any of the current Australian number 1 competitors use a rear stage

I disagree with most surround sound in cars, even the like of Bose BLOSE IS RUBBISH every factrory setup is and all can be improved upon !!! /Dolby as you mentioned, they are often poorly setup in my opinion,(I doubt a local installer knows how to setup a Dolby System, and RTA software is now fairly cheap fo laptops so you dont need AudioControl RTA that cost big bucks) I've listened to $7000 optioned Bose stereo's in brand new Alfa Romeos only to have it sound poor.I've had systems that cost less then a grand sound better then a poorly/designed installed 5k + one ?

For people here, with a limited budget, in a 2 door coupe, rear speakers would be a waste of money and and would only on occasion benefit the passengers. I do agree with that but if your only running a Budget minded deck then 4 speakers would be a better sound then just expensive fronts

If the whole speaker budget was spent on the fronts only and a decent amp to run them, the person driving would be much happier.

A real installer and sales team will sit with a customer to find out the budget and end goals, not every system is a cookie cutter case!!!

I think this thread should be closed its off track , this place needs a chat room,, haha

Not to sound rude, but this is fairly incorrect. Focal make very nice speaker systems there is no doubt, but of the best is debatable.

I say there is something better on offer for every focal model released, money wise.

If you read what I wrote I clearly said one of the best manufacturers. Therefore as a whole. Never said every model they make is better than anything else.

Hence my comment about Ferrari. Sure Pagani or Bugatti may make one or two cars that are much better than a Ferrari, but as a whole you would still say Ferrari are one of the best manufacturers.

And in home cinema speakers their Grand Utopias are considered one of the best speakers in the world and have won numerous awards. With a price tag of close to a quarter or a million dollars I can easily see why.

those are nice sounding, I heard them at CES in vegas and my friends shop in denver with boulder amps running them . but overpriced ,

price doesnt always equal qualiity.... it equals company profit and bragging rights

they would match this cheap car amp from a while back, retail on introduction was 300,000 bucks for a car amp ???Phoenix Gold made some crazy amps back in the day we used to sell them , run a whole car on a 20watt per channel amp(rated power) but actually puts out over a thousand watts total , load them down to 1/4 ohm damn near a dead short !!!!

http://webfaq.phoenixphorum.com/MPH6300.htm

now a meager 99,0000

PPI ART series ,Orion HCCA, Rockford "POWER", US AMP, Zapco had some too. most of those are still top of the line even 20 years old and sell for a mint on ebay

Keep in mind quality of materials and technology used in their equipment should be a factor in deciding which brand is better. You will realise that for 'better' equipment you will need to pay a bit more but yes the relationship between price and quality of sound is not linear. And you will never escape one or two people saying that this product or that product is overpriced in an attempt to change your mind.

I looked at jl for my sub. Heard the 12w6 when it came out and in a friends 34 gtr and loved the SQ. Didn't wanna pay that much so got a 12w3 eventually based on the sound quality and also the quality of materials used to make the 12w6. Granted I know the 12w3 won't have the same materials to save on production cost but the technology should be the same. Oh and I have to say it but I think the 12w7 was a bit overpriced :turned:.

Oh and yeh I agree with the point on there being plenty of 'better' (very loosely used term here btw - up to personal preference of course) options than Apline. Btw I think we lost the guy who started this topic.

In summary: Buy a sony....:ban:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I thought that might be the case, thats what I'll start saving for. Thanks for the info 
    • Ps i found the below forum and it seems to be the same scenario Im dealing with. Going to check my ECU coolant temp wire tomorrow    From NICOclub forum: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Thu Apr 11, 2013 7:23 am I am completely lost on this. Car ran perfectly fine when I parked it at the end of the year. I took the engine out and painted the engine bay, and put a fuel cell with an inline walbro 255 instead of the in tank unit I had last year. After reinstalling everything, the engine floods when the fuel pump primes. if i pull the fuel pump fuse it'll start, and as soon as I put the fuse back in it starts running ridiculously rich. I checked the tps voltage, and its fine. Cleaned the maf as it had some dust from sitting on a shelf all winter, fuel pressure is correct while running, but wont fire until there is less than 5psi in the lines. The fuel lines are run correctly. I have found a few threads with the same problem but no actual explanation of what fixed it, the threads just ended. Any help would be appreciated. Rb25det s1 walbro255 fuel pump nismo fpr holset hx35 turbo fmic 3" exhaust freddy intake manifold q45tb q45 maf   Re: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Fri Apr 12, 2013 5:07 am No, I didn't. I found the problem though. There was a break in one of the ecu coolant temp sensor wires. Once it was repaired it fired right up with no problems. I would have never thought a non working coolant temp sensor would have caused such an issue.
    • Hi sorry late reply I didnt get a chance to take any pics (my mechanics on the other side of the city) but the plugs were fouled from being too rich. I noticed the MAF wasn't genuine, so I replaced it with a genuine green label unit. I also swapped in a different ignitor, but the issue remains. I've narrowed it down a bit now: - If I unplug and reconnect the fuel lines and install fresh spark plugs, the car starts right up and runs perfectly. Took it around the block with no issues - As soon as I shut it off and try to restart, it won't start again - Fuel pressure while cranking is steady around 40 psi, injectors have good spray, return line is clear, and the FPR vacuum is working. It just seems like it's getting flooded after the first start I unplugged coolant sensors to see if its related to ECU flooding but that didnt make a difference. Im thinking its related to this because this issue only started happening after fixing coolant leaks and replacing the bottom part of the stock manifolds coolant pipe. My mechanic took off the inlet to get to get to do these repairs. My mechanics actually just an old mate who's retired now so ill be taking it to a different mechanic who i know has exp with RBs to see if they find anything. If you have any ideas please send em lll give it a try. Ive tried other things like swapping the injectors, fuel rail, different fuel pressure regs, different ignitor, spark plugs, comp test and MAF but the same issue persists.
    • My return flow is custom and puts the return behind the reo, instead of at the bottom. All my core is in the air flow, rather than losing some of it up behind the reo. I realise that the core really acts more as a spiky heatsink than as a constant rate heat exchanger, and that therefore size is important.... but mine fits everything I needed and wanted without having to cut anything, and that's worth something too. And there won't be a hot patch of core up behind the reo after every hit, releasing heat back into the intake air.
    • There is a really fun solution to this problem, buy a Haltech (or ECU of your choice) and put the MAF in the bin.  I'm assuming your going to want more power in future, so you'll need to get the ECU at some stage. I'd put the new MAF money towards the new ECU. 
×
×
  • Create New...