Jump to content
SAU Community

Power Antenna Is Always Going Up

SargeRX8

By SargeRX8,
in Car Audio & Electrical

 Share

Recommended Posts

SargeRX8 Grand Master

SargeRX8

Posted
Posted

It was fine with my pioneer deck. Fitted a new philips deck properly but the power antenna always goes up. I did not confuse the amp wire with the antenna wire. Could this be a deck characteristic? Its the one on special at auto barn philips ced750.

Without pulling apart my dash how can I disable the antenna completely? I tried unplugging a wire near the rear quarter. It just disabled my fuel pump lol. its an r33.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/375840-power-antenna-is-always-going-up/
Share on other sites
Hadouken Grand Master

Hadouken

Posted
Posted

When I was installing my head unit. I checked to see if it switched on, but it wouldnt, but the antenna would go all the way up. After tinkering for ages and finding out my own silly mistake, i found the wire to the power antenna and then found a good earth tried it again and bam all sweet.

Did you install it yourself?

Dash takes 2 mins tops to pull out. And that is if youre using one hand haha.

If you didnt do it yourself I would take it back!

If you did do it yourself unplug the antenna wire going into the headunit. Youre problem definately lies with where the antenna has been plugged into the headunit, seeing as its giving it a constant voltage which is driving the antenna motor!

AAARGH 33 Community Regular

AAARGH 33

Posted
Posted

What you disconnected in the rear quarter was the fuel pump resistor,the antenna unit is right next to it,you just have to look behind it. There's two plugs going into it top and middle. Im guessing the top one is for signal and middle is for power,disconnect that.

I have this problem too, prior to removing the antenna unit for a rear quarter repair the aerial wasn't going up with stereo on and I noticed the middle plug was out,once repair was done I connected up the two plugs going into it the thing went up so previous owner did it.

SargeRX8 Grand Master

SargeRX8

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Its annoying and ugly. Looking in my rear view to see some f**king demented, warped antenna sticking out. Disconnecting it was the best move ever. I can just wire up an internal antenna if I need it but never use radio anyway.

  • 6 months later...
Booki Rising Star

Booki

Posted
Posted

Sorry to bump up such a old thread, But i just recently installed a Pioneer headunit, and it had no dedicated antenna wire. It has a blue/white wire which is "Connect to system control terminal of the power amp or auto antenna relay control terminal. 300mA 12v DC). So i plugged this i connected this wire to my antenna. Needless to say, it comes up every time i switch on the head unit.

I noticed i have a switch already down underneath the steering to lower and raise the antenna, is it possible to "modify" this switch to bring my antenna back all the way down? As it does indeed look absolutely pox.

Or wire up another switch for the antenna all together.

SargeRX8 Grand Master

SargeRX8

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Sorry to bump up such a old thread, But i just recently installed a Pioneer headunit, and it had no dedicated antenna wire. It has a blue/white wire which is "Connect to system control terminal of the power amp or auto antenna relay control terminal. 300mA 12v DC). So i plugged this i connected this wire to my antenna. Needless to say, it comes up every time i switch on the head unit.

I noticed i have a switch already down underneath the steering to lower and raise the antenna, is it possible to "modify" this switch to bring my antenna back all the way down? As it does indeed look absolutely pox.

Or wire up another switch for the antenna all together.

Ill reply to this since this is my thread. My car did this all the time, a few decks to it too(always on). Its shit, stupid, ugly and pointless. I now run the car without the antenna wired to go up and down(always down). Radio works perfect when I'm, well anywhere(under cover parking different story but meh). Honestly, disconnect the wire and see how it goes with it always down. That switch on your dash doesn't control a voltage or anything. It controls the motor for the antenna directly. The deck turns the antenna on, that switch tells the motor to either do a half way out antenna or whole way out. I think if you rewired the switch to turn it on and off, you will lose the half length full length antenna feature. Another option is a dedicated switch between the antenna power and the deck. On and off, this way you retain the standard skyline switch and don't f**k anything around.

Hadouken Grand Master

Hadouken

Posted
Posted

If you seriously want to control the power to the antenna, then get a missile switch (adds extra coolness) and wire the one side with the antenna wire and the other side to a power source of your choice. Maybe one that is constant when your driving. Acc would be my choice.

Then whenever you want the antenna flip that bad boy and boom antenna comes up.

Or leave it unplugged if you don't want to go through the hassle.

Booki Rising Star

Booki

Posted
Posted

Hmm...I will agree it does look major pox.

But half way up it doesn't look TOO bad.

So i think i will just leave it as it is for now, or until i can be bothered taking my dash off to cut the wire.

Random question though.

How did you guys run the remote wire back to the boot for your amps? Take it you did it seperately from your RCA's?

Looking at amping my speakers at some point (Still got the stockies, as i doubt replacing them while still powered from a headunit is going to make much difference?)

SargeRX8 Grand Master

SargeRX8

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

Hmm...I will agree it does look major pox.

But half way up it doesn't look TOO bad.

So i think i will just leave it as it is for now, or until i can be bothered taking my dash off to cut the wire.

Random question though.

How did you guys run the remote wire back to the boot for your amps? Take it you did it seperately from your RCA's?

Looking at amping my speakers at some point (Still got the stockies, as i doubt replacing them while still powered from a headunit is going to make much difference?)

As per usual with all this kind of stuff, power wires to one side of the car, RCA to the other side. I suggest you remove the driver/passenger seats and rear seats. Makes life easier.

Edited by SargeRX8
  • 6 months later...
Sinesweep Contributor

Sinesweep

Posted
Posted (edited)

Found this Post after a search for Blue wire.

My car is in bits trying to pull out my JVC and put in a Pioneer. (My First Install)

JVC has 2 blue wires - One "Remote" that is Spliced into the old Loom, and One Power Antenna that seems to have a new wire going off under the dash:,

Pioneer Has 1 for "Remote Control".

Pic here

I'm not sure what the blue wire does but I do Have an amp / sub, so I assume I use that connection for the Pioneer, and just leave the Antenna one off (meaning I have no auto antenna?

want to make sure I know what Im doing (sort of) before I cut that JVC Connector off.

cheers for any help

PS - sorry if noob - but why doesn't the indicator work with the dash off / Edit: works when I put the hazard switch back in.

Edited by Sinesweep

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MBS206
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • RP1421
      S15 Spec R

      By RP1421 · Posted

      As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • joshuaho96
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...