Jump to content
SAU Community

R33 Gts-T Clutch Pedal Bracket

Trozzle
 Share

Recommended Posts

Trozzle Grand Master

Trozzle

Posted
Posted

Yeah yeah, searched various sections. I'm sick of starting threads too...so just want concise answers please :)

my pedal bracket snapped, as they do. Now it's easily fixed up by frankenstein-style welding that shit - but I need to remove it. I'm not at all interested in dismantling my dash (at least not too much) so I want to know - has anyone removed it on a GTS-T without taking their dash out? Is it doable? I've heard speculation that the bracket itself is actually spot-welded onto the firewall as well as bolted in, true?

If anyone has pics of the standard pedal bracket out of the car, it would be much appreciated so I can see where the mounting points are :D

post-60560-0-40915300-1315026344_thumb.jpg

that's what's up with mine. Easy fix, if I can get it out.

cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/376086-r33-gts-t-clutch-pedal-bracket/
Share on other sites
R31 POWER Mentor

R31 POWER

Posted
Posted

Easy as.

- Undo the 2 nuts on the master cylinder in the engine bay.

- Get a torch and pull the pin on the clutch cylinder rod.

- Unplug the clutch pedal switch

- Undo bolt pointing straight up hold pedal box.

Wiggle it out. Should take about about 30mins first time.

  • Like 1
turboedsloth Grand Master

turboedsloth

Posted
Posted

Its not a bitch, just a tight space. As the other guys have said its that easy. Once you've welded it back up, paint it silver then you can say it's a nismo unit. Cos thats all they do

Trozzle Grand Master

Trozzle

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I've found the final mounting point of the bracket. There is NO WAY you can undo it. It's up the very top of the bracket.

Unless there's something different about my pedal bracket, I call bullshit that anyone has ever done this with the dash in place.

Trozzle Grand Master

Trozzle

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I have, a few times. I use a 3/8 drive swivel socket, 12mm from memory. Got a kid nearby with skinny hands??

swivel socket = effectively a U-joint?

looking at pics of the "Nismo" replacement, I'll be using a long extension for the socket and going straight up IN FRONT of the pedal itself?

turboedsloth Grand Master

turboedsloth

Posted
Posted

http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item.asp?P65=&tool=all&item_ID=86651&group_ID=325&store=&dir=catalog

Something like that sucker, 3/8 drive rachet, 120mm extension and socket. Dunno why yours is being so difficult

Trozzle Grand Master

Trozzle

Posted
  • Author
Posted

ok all good mate, got it done.

Mine was so difficult because it took me forever to find that last bolt, and then because of how I discovered it I concluded it wasn't possible to get to.

Ended up just using the larger ratchet drive (since I don't have any small drive 12mm sockets) and a really long extension.

Trozzle Grand Master

Trozzle

Posted
  • Author
Posted

And it's back in. I must say, putting it back in was MILLIONS times more difficult than pulling it out. That bolt I was having trouble finding was a PRICK to get back in :(

Either way, she's welded up nicely (read: horribly. We used an arc welder - blew a few holes through the bracket rofl) and back in. Only downside is my battery went flat from having the door open all the time :(

Thanks for the help guys!

  • 3 years later...
shizz Apprentice

shizz

Posted
Posted

WOW I have never pulled out a clutch peddle befor and got it out in about 20 minutes, welded it up and back it took no longer than 1 hour. only 2 nuts, 1 bolt and a pin. super easy !! but I am a bike mechanic so it would be easier than if you have never really done this be for but very good to learn how to fix these small things rather than paying someone probably about $400 to fix it for you

jiffo Mentor

jiffo

Posted
Posted

Yes not that difficult, but I found breaking other items was the worst part, boot release for example.

So whenever I'm working on/under/around the dash, out come the front seats first thing.

Then unbolt the boot release as the handle is flimsy plastic and if you accidentally sit on it, she'll break.

Toss in a few bags of rags to lie on and I'm ready to go.

  • 2 years later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • CF.Panda
      R34 25GT Engine Light 21

      By CF.Panda · Posted

      I wasn’t able to replicate the sound anymore. It was a one time sound so maybe it was just coincidence but it was like small pebbles being dropped in a coke can.   should I try cleaning the MAF? It could be it’s functioning but dirty? I don’t know.
    • sunsetR33
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By sunsetR33 · Posted

      Update 4: Hi all. The car drives again! Haven't driven for long, only to store it in the garage again, but the test drive was successful. The coolant and oil leaks seem to be fixed for now. Temps on the engine were also very good, while moving I never even saw 80C water during the approx. 30 minute drive. Ate up all the coolant in the reservoir though so will have to fill that even more when I go to the car next time. One thing that pisses me off is that the RPM gauge is still f**ked, I even resoldered the board twice and used copper paste on the silly screws that are used as connections. Next time I take it out I'll take apart the board and fit new components, I'll see if I can get a replacement IC for it.  I have an appointment set for 22nd of September for the engine tune to 370hp. Alignment also still needs to be done. My hope is that I can get all the legal stuff over with by the end of this season. Anyone of you have advice regarding intercoolers? Currently there is an APEXI core fitted, one of those weird hybrid ones, 600x270x76. I don't think it's bad but it's not new and now I still have the chance to change it now to legally include it in the paperwork. Only issue is that the only options that would arrive in time are a HKS Type R intercooler or generic Ebay spec intercoolers comparable to a JustJap one. Ideally I'd order a Plazmaman but it takes over a month to receive which would mean making the car legal has to wait until next season. Would love to hear some input on this. Same story for my injectors, the previous owner was a nunce and put ID 1050x on the engine. They work but are obviously not ideal at "normal" power levels. But I don't see a reason to change them unless the tuner says it's necessary. I read online before buying a different exhaust that the top secret style rear diffusers won't fit due to the size of the rear resonators. My buddy and I made it work by slightly "adjusting the shape" of the mounting bracket and making some spacers out of 3d print for the mounting bolts. Fits like a charm. Just putting this here in case someone has this problem. Even the hefty HKS Silent Hi Power rear can fits without hitting anything.
    • Butters
      UniClutch

      By Butters · Posted

      Well they got my money but they are not getting my gearbox ! 
    • GTSBoy
      ECU sees many times the speed than speedo does (R34 swap)

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      It's needed for rolling idle up, and I think it is a decider on VCT also.
    • Kinkstaah
      ECU sees many times the speed than speedo does (R34 swap)

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      I mean, not really. Link ECU's can absolutely still have errors from the ECU thinking it's getting a sensor it's not expecting. I would imagine the speed at the ECU level in Nistune does absolutely nothing anyway? I assume the ECU does not do any fancy TC stuff with regards to front+rear wheel speed or anything of that like anyway. Someone who uses Nistune may be more fluent in it. 
×
×
  • Create New...