Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Yeah yeah, searched various sections. I'm sick of starting threads too...so just want concise answers please :)

my pedal bracket snapped, as they do. Now it's easily fixed up by frankenstein-style welding that shit - but I need to remove it. I'm not at all interested in dismantling my dash (at least not too much) so I want to know - has anyone removed it on a GTS-T without taking their dash out? Is it doable? I've heard speculation that the bracket itself is actually spot-welded onto the firewall as well as bolted in, true?

If anyone has pics of the standard pedal bracket out of the car, it would be much appreciated so I can see where the mounting points are :D

post-60560-0-40915300-1315026344_thumb.jpg

that's what's up with mine. Easy fix, if I can get it out.

cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/376086-r33-gts-t-clutch-pedal-bracket/
Share on other sites

Easy as.

- Undo the 2 nuts on the master cylinder in the engine bay.

- Get a torch and pull the pin on the clutch cylinder rod.

- Unplug the clutch pedal switch

- Undo bolt pointing straight up hold pedal box.

Wiggle it out. Should take about about 30mins first time.

  • Like 1

Its not a bitch, just a tight space. As the other guys have said its that easy. Once you've welded it back up, paint it silver then you can say it's a nismo unit. Cos thats all they do

I've found the final mounting point of the bracket. There is NO WAY you can undo it. It's up the very top of the bracket.

Unless there's something different about my pedal bracket, I call bullshit that anyone has ever done this with the dash in place.

I have, a few times. I use a 3/8 drive swivel socket, 12mm from memory. Got a kid nearby with skinny hands??

swivel socket = effectively a U-joint?

looking at pics of the "Nismo" replacement, I'll be using a long extension for the socket and going straight up IN FRONT of the pedal itself?

http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item.asp?P65=&tool=all&item_ID=86651&group_ID=325&store=&dir=catalog

Something like that sucker, 3/8 drive rachet, 120mm extension and socket. Dunno why yours is being so difficult

ok all good mate, got it done.

Mine was so difficult because it took me forever to find that last bolt, and then because of how I discovered it I concluded it wasn't possible to get to.

Ended up just using the larger ratchet drive (since I don't have any small drive 12mm sockets) and a really long extension.

And it's back in. I must say, putting it back in was MILLIONS times more difficult than pulling it out. That bolt I was having trouble finding was a PRICK to get back in :(

Either way, she's welded up nicely (read: horribly. We used an arc welder - blew a few holes through the bracket rofl) and back in. Only downside is my battery went flat from having the door open all the time :(

Thanks for the help guys!

  • 3 years later...

WOW I have never pulled out a clutch peddle befor and got it out in about 20 minutes, welded it up and back it took no longer than 1 hour. only 2 nuts, 1 bolt and a pin. super easy !! but I am a bike mechanic so it would be easier than if you have never really done this be for but very good to learn how to fix these small things rather than paying someone probably about $400 to fix it for you

Yes not that difficult, but I found breaking other items was the worst part, boot release for example.

So whenever I'm working on/under/around the dash, out come the front seats first thing.

Then unbolt the boot release as the handle is flimsy plastic and if you accidentally sit on it, she'll break.

Toss in a few bags of rags to lie on and I'm ready to go.

  • 2 years later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Lock me in mate, although I'm not sure if I'll be heading up from Goulburn or down from Sydney, either way, return will be back to Goulburn 
    • Sounds good, we will aim to be there! @The Bogan I'll give you a shout if you are heading up to campbelltown for the meet too.
    • Before I get to the test day, just to finish off the android head unit. This is a demo from car start up....the standard/host system takes a few seconds to boot (same as all v37) but Android comes up quickly. In this vid I'm using the delivered launcher but have set the default to Agami since which is easier to navigate when if use primarily 5 apps. You can see the host system still takes over when required eg putting it in reverse, and you can switch between Android and not by holding the back button 3 sec. It is pretty responsive (fast) but you can see I had to press harder than expected a couple of times.  I still have the phone connected to the stock system, and that also seamlessly takes over Android music playing. v37-android-demo.mp4 The bigger reason that I put this in though is so that I can use Ecutek directly on the head unit. That gives me a dash with logging (up to 20MB only), high and low value warnings on any parameter etc etc. I've run a USB cable from the Ecutek OBD dongle to a USB input on the unit, easy. v37-ecutek-demo.mp4   The unit did freeze on the launcher the other day, I think Agami was trying to verify the license when it didn't have a data connection...will monitor and report back if there are any other problems but so far I'm very happy with the upgrade.
    • Nah that is just crappy GPS mapping, I did have a small excursion (cold tyres, damp track, surprise!), will post up that when I get a chance.
    • So 10/10 times that code is coil packs? I mean if that's the case ill drop the $400USD or so to replace them. I didn't know these cars threw codes before the issue became an issue.
×
×
  • Create New...