Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys,

Only new to the forum. I need a little bit of help. I know absoloutley nothing about the RB engines but i was told their a good engine to extract power from. What im chasing is and engine i can put into my ford escort for the car show coming up early next year. Im chasing 750HP and was wondering if you could give me some advice on what engine id be better of going with. Of course im going to stroke it and strengthin it but im wondering what else as well as what turbo set up (twin turbo).

Thanks, I hope you guys can help me out

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/376246-help-engine-build/
Share on other sites

that much, really?

I was gonna go one of these engines cause i was told there cheaper then a v8. I didnt realise this

Yep, it's an expensive trip.

I could tell from your first post that you perhaps had not looked into it, as if you really wanted to be running 750hp from a 2.6ltr, you wouldn't be asking on the internet first :)

You'd be better off with a 2JZ IMO. Plenty of bolt-on cheap from the US.

V8 is WAY cheaper to build than an RB26.

And V8 would fit in tiny Escort engine bay easily I'd imagine.

Plus not sure if 750hp in very light car is necessary but each to their own.

You'd be better off with a 2JZ IMO. Plenty of bolt-on cheap from the US.

This.

The RB's are good at getting respectable numbers, yet 750hp is a little far and beyond from the term 'respectable' - more so phenominal.

The 2JZ is a better platform for that kind of power out of the box, as the others have said its more or less a developement thing.. You will need to sink a LOT of money into a motor for that sort of power and YES a V8 will do it a lot cheaper.

A 1JZ with a GT4092R will do it 'unopened', a quick run down on prices as a benchmark:

5k on turbo, manifold, gates, lines, gaskets, bits n bobs JUST to fit the working turbo to the motor

5k on management, ecu, injectors, sensors, 2 fuel pumps, lines, tuning

5k on engine perpherials, cams, belts, intake manifold, balancer, pulleys, etc

4k on an intercooler and exhaust

2k on a clutch that can hold that power

The 2JZ and V160 gearbox will set you back over 5 grand on its own.

As a rule of thumb, the respectable threshhold of all setups probably stops around the 500HP mark. After that you will need a 3.5" exhaust, 2k intercooler, two fuel pumps, excellent management and a VERY strong motor.

Maybe rethink the power your chasing and go from there. A well sorted 500HP Escort will piss out 10s ;)

FYI 500hp is also pushing it for the RB, again think JZ or V8.

GL

either way 750hp power is goin to cost a SH*T load of money,

cheapest way i could think to get somewhere in the ball park of 750hp would be to get an LS2 (6L V8 out of a commodore, suprisingly cheap). get it built to handle boost

and slap on a turbo or Roots type blower. There are places that will do a full stroker kit rebuild for under 10g and the turbo/super charger kit is goin to be around the 10g mark

So even then ur lookin at 20g plus the extras. You could probs get close to 600hp with a stroked 6L with some head and cam work

thats if it fits in ur engine bay of course heh heh

Jump on the LS1 forums if ur keen to go that way, those guys are pretty helful

Edited by GTR_JOEY

This.

The RB's are good at getting respectable numbers, yet 750hp is a little far and beyond from the term 'respectable' - more so phenominal.

The 2JZ is a better platform for that kind of power out of the box, as the others have said its more or less a developement thing.. You will need to sink a LOT of money into a motor for that sort of power and YES a V8 will do it a lot cheaper.

A 1JZ with a GT4092R will do it 'unopened', a quick run down on prices as a benchmark:

5k on turbo, manifold, gates, lines, gaskets, bits n bobs JUST to fit the working turbo to the motor

5k on management, ecu, injectors, sensors, 2 fuel pumps, lines, tuning

5k on engine perpherials, cams, belts, intake manifold, balancer, pulleys, etc

4k on an intercooler and exhaust

2k on a clutch that can hold that power

The 2JZ and V160 gearbox will set you back over 5 grand on its own.

As a rule of thumb, the respectable threshhold of all setups probably stops around the 500HP mark. After that you will need a 3.5" exhaust, 2k intercooler, two fuel pumps, excellent management and a VERY strong motor.

Maybe rethink the power your chasing and go from there. A well sorted 500HP Escort will piss out 10s ;)

FYI 500hp is also pushing it for the RB, again think JZ or V8.

GL

some would say a Neo Rb25 would do it un opened too.. (well maybe arp studs and MLS gasket) mercury motorsport proved this not long ago with 700 rwhp from a stock bottom end.. still going too.

either way 750hp power is goin to cost a SH*T load of money,

cheapest way i could think to get somewhere in the ball park of 750hp would be to get an LS2 (6L V8 out of a commodore, suprisingly cheap). get it built to handle boost

and slap on a turbo or Roots type blower. There are places that will do a full stroker kit rebuild for under 10g and the turbo/super charger kit is goin to be around the 10g mark

So even then ur lookin at 20g plus the extras. You could probs get close to 600hp with a stroked 6L with some head and cam work

thats if it fits in ur engine bay of course heh heh

Jump on the LS1 forums if ur keen to go that way, those guys are pretty helful

can get brand new ls3 crate motors complete with manifolds and sensors etc (just no wiring loom or ecu) for around 5-6k. wouldnt take too much work to get 750hp, hell my brothers makes just over 500bhp straight out of the crate (came with a bigger cam)

can get brand new ls3 crate motors complete with manifolds and sensors etc (just no wiring loom or ecu) for around 5-6k. wouldnt take too much work to get 750hp, hell my brothers makes just over 500bhp straight out of the crate (came with a bigger cam)

At the wheels mate?

I would believe it. My mates ls2 made 460hp at wheels with cam + extractors etc

Even with a stroked/camed/ higher compression LS3 your not goin to get 750hp.. if u even got close it would be shit to drive due to the massive cam

LIke i said before i reckon u could get close to 750hp for a bit over 20 grand.

Does it really need to be 750hp lol?

At the wheels mate?

I would believe it. My mates ls2 made 460hp at wheels with cam + extractors etc

no way at the wheels, my brother just did $10k+ on his new malloo with LS3, all new race heads, big cams, cool air induc, extractors, exhaust, tuned and tuned and got 460rwhp, when you already have 6Litres I don't think the extra 0.2litres makes much difference..

should have gone under bonnet supercharger, for $10k could get close to 750bhp, or maybe closer to $20k

I think this guy needs to drive a few different cars with varying engines and weights etc.

For example on the weekend at our motokhana we had a 180sx with a 4.5L (i believe) V8 in it, makes 200rwkw. The thing was a fkn animal - no way does a car of that weight need anymore power to be fun.

no way at the wheels, my brother just did $10k+ on his new malloo with LS3, all new race heads, big cams, cool air induc, extractors, exhaust, tuned and tuned and got 460rwhp, when you already have 6Litres I don't think the extra 0.2litres makes much difference..

should have gone under bonnet supercharger, for $10k could get close to 750bhp, or maybe closer to $20k

Devo. The one im talking about made 256kw with stock cam and then 353kw with only the cam and tune changed

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Good luck on the weekend mate
    • Must have been an absolute nightmare to drive when the power steer was out, the rack ratio/wheel size/caster is all set up for power assistance
    • Welcome to SAU, what are you looking at buying?
    • I checked the injectors again (1 and 2, since they’re easiest to access) to make sure they weren’t clogged. Even though the entire fuel system had been cleaned, I wanted to be certain. Everything looked clean, so I reinstalled and connected everything. When I started the car to confirm everything was okay, it immediately revved up high, so I shut it off straight away. I checked to see if I’d missed a vacuum hose or something, but everything was connected. On the second attempt, the car ran without the high idle, but I noticed a distinct “compressed air” sound coming from the engine bay. Tracing the sound, I pushed injector #6 forward slightly and the noise stopped — it turned out it wasn’t seated properly, despite the fuel rail being bolted down. While holding it in place, the car idled steadily without stalling and ran for over 5 minutes. At this point, I pulled all six injectors out just in case I hadn’t seated them correctly or dirt had gotten onto the O-rings. Unfortunately, I discovered that I had damaged 3 out of 6 injectors (the OEM 270cc ones) during installation. So yes, this was my fault. Since only the pintle caps were damaged, I’ve ordered a Fuel Injector Service Kit from NZEFI to refurbish them. In the meantime, I reinstalled my new injectors – the car now idles fine for over 15 minutes without stalling. I have not attempted to drive it so far. It’s not perfect yet, as it hesitates when the throttle is pressed, but it’s a big improvement. Unplugging the IACV with the new injectors idles at around 800rpm, even with the IACV screw tightened fully. But this is probably due to tune.
    • I wanted to try and preserve the front bumper as long as possible, they're not cheap and are made to order in Japan. Taking inspiration from my previous K11 Micra build where I made an undertray for the Impul bumper, I did the same for this BN Sports bumper but a little slimmed down.  This time round I only made a 'skid plate' (if that's the correct wording/term) for just the bumper surface area, the Micra version covered the gap like an undertray. Starting off with a sheet of mild steel approx. 0.9mm thick 4ft x 2ft in size. I traced around the bumper, cut it out and cleaned the edges. Luckily I was able to get two halves from one piece of metal In the video I installed it as is, but I've since then I've removed it to spray and add a rubber edging trim. The rubber trim is suitable for 1-2mm and it's a really nice tight fit. The bolts had to be loosened due to the plates being too tight against the bumper, the trim wouldn't push on I used some stainless M6 flat headed bolts for a flusher finish (rather than hex heads poking down), I believe this style fastener is used for furniture too incase you struggle to source some. The corner's are a little wider, but this may be an advantage incase I get close to bumping it  The front grill got some attention, finally getting round to repairing it. Upon removal one fixing pulled itself out of the plastic frame, one side is M8 that fixes inside of the frame, where as the other side is M5. Not knowing I could get replacements, I cut down an M8 bolt, threaded it inside the frame along with a decent amount of JB Weld.  The mesh was replaced to match the bumper. One hole on the bonnet/hood had to be drilled out to 8mm to accommodate the new stud, once the glue had set it could be refitted. I think the reason the grill was double meshed was to hide the horn/bonnet latch (which makes sense) but I much prefer it matching the bumper Bumper refitted and it's looking much better IMO The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bVZP35io9MA
×
×
  • Create New...