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I'm currently looking for an R33 GT-R.

I've found some nice examples that have hit 120,000kms plus.

In general, how long do these engines last for? Do they reach 200,000kms without issues?

I worry as I have never heard of any RB26's reaching 200,000kms before :mellow:

I've only heard about the problems etc.

Should i be staying away from cars over 100,000kms?

I'm experienced with 4G's and 1J/2J's but i'm very new to RB26's.

Any help or advice would be greatly appreciated guys.

Cheers.

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As long they're looked after well, have solid oil pressure and not hugely trashed, they should be fine.

There is one 33 GTR on carsales that has done 347,000km.

Also don't ever take gospel on the odometer reading, for all we know it could have travelled more or less than indicated.

If seller claim it's genuine, ask for proof - i.e. Log books, de-reg/inspection certificate both here and Japan.

They can last million ks if its never been thrashed , perfect maintanace , kept standard etc etc. So the point is it comes down to the life its had and the current state which will determine its life.

Thanks fellas appreciate the information.

So a well looked after RB26 with 125,000km on it should be okay right?

And when getting a compression test done, what would ideal results be? (Just so i have a decent idea).

Thanks fellas appreciate the information.

So a well looked after RB26 with 125,000km on it should be okay right?

And when getting a compression test done, what would ideal results be? (Just so i have a decent idea).

Im no expert but i'd expect somewhere between 160 - 170 across all 6.

Just make sure they are all around the same reading and for example one is not sitting at 110 and the others are 170.

yep just like any car bring it to a specialist in the car and get them to do a thorough check.. racepace did mine and chris (the owner) looks over it with a fine tooth comb. they know absolutely everything about gtr's

Standard specs are 172psi, though i doubt u will find an engine with compression that goodanything over 150psi is good in my opinion, high 140's is probs stil okNissan workshop manual recommends a rebuild at around 125 from memory so anyting near there is not goodmake sure all cylinders are within 5% of each other

Standard specs are 172psi, though i doubt u will find an engine with compression that goodanything over 150psi is good in my opinion, high 140's is probs stil okNissan workshop manual recommends a rebuild at around 125 from memory so anyting near there is not goodmake sure all cylinders are within 5% of each other

dont know how correct you are there.. my gtr was all around 175 and i was there. and dont know if youd question racepace

dont know how correct you are there.. my gtr was all around 175 and i was there. and dont know if youd question racepace

You have an R34 and he has an R32. Yours will be much newer etc.

As everyone else in this thread has said, the condition of the car and getting a full inspection / compression test will tell you what you need to know... I would not pay much attention to the odometer.

As everyone else has mentioned ignore the KMS on the dash, look at the other tell tale signs of age such as:

- Right hand door wear

- Steering wheel wear

- Drivers side seat wear

etc..

If it says it's got 50,000km on the dash but the rest of the car doesn't reflect it then it's obviously not right.

Make sure you get a compression test done before you buy as well.

Also, when you start modifying don't go above 18psi or you will risk reliability.

As everyone else has mentioned ignore the KMS on the dash, look at the other tell tale signs of age such as:

- Right hand door wear

- Steering wheel wear

- Drivers side seat wear

etc..

If it says it's got 50,000km on the dash but the rest of the car doesn't reflect it then it's obviously not right.

Make sure you get a compression test done before you buy as well.

Also, when you start modifying don't go above 18psi or you will risk reliability.

not always. if it was owned by a larger person then all of those things will have more wear than a car owned by a skinny person. it also comes down to whether the car did short trips or long trips as a car that does shorter trips will have more wear from the driver getting in and out more often.

not always. if it was owned by a larger person then all of those things will have more wear than a car owned by a skinny person. it also comes down to whether the car did short trips or long trips as a car that does shorter trips will have more wear from the driver getting in and out more often.

Good point, all true. And also if the previous owner(s) wore rings there may be a bit more wear and tear on the steering wheel / gear knob, so not the best indication 4 u.

If you can, ask the seller if the 100k major service has been done (and have receipts). If I was buying a car with for example 70k on it, i'd probably be doing the 100k early as you cant really verify the km anyway (And like my mates r32 with 90,000 on it u might find a sticker saying next change due @ 200,000 under the cover.....)

If seller has no confirmation or receipts, maybe another negotiation point 4 u.

too many variables will affect how good a high k (or low k) 26 will be, like any used vehicle you may get lucky or you may have to open your wallet as soon as you get the car into your driveway

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