Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi

Im no expert on boost but as far as i know if u have a turbo car, any turbo car, and u want to add boost ( which is fine within limits) shouldnt there be a few other things to do first?

My mate just bought a stock Ford XR6 Turbo... :( not my choice but all good) So the first mod he has done today is add boost......

Shouldnt he add an upgraded intercooler first ? as the turbo will now run harder with boost, he should replace the factory fitted cooler to a larger after market one? and shouldnt he add an upgraded exhaust to cope with extra backpressure, and mebbie even wastegate?

Im not sure how much boost he will run, but i can see a disaster heading his way without other mods to cope. I argued he should do the other mods FIRST to which he says nah all good, so i advised him to run under 10PSI if he isnt doing any other mods.

Any advice is appeciated, thanx u.

Edited by nathanau

Xr6 boost is controlled by the ecu. Im curious to see what happens.

Best to just get a tune.

Hmmms well im curious to see what happens too lolz i can just sense something melting or blowing up..... My mate has Zero knowledge about cars other than to change gears etc.... He wouldnt even know how to operate boost or what PSI is..... he said one of his mates is installing the boost .. some guy who just runs rats on the road...

My mate is into his xr6 turbo first thing first is get intercooler piping done. The stock plasticpiping is designed to burst at anything over stock then tell him to get a flash tune. Stock intercooler is fine for up to 400rwkw

a better cooler and exhaust would have given him more power on the stock boost than turning the boost up a few psi with nothing else done to the car.

Hi dude, yer that sounds like a plan. But he is just running after market boost now, and im guessing its going to be 10 ( knowing his mate) or over 10psi..., without any other mod... and no tune, nothing else.

Edited by nathanau

It will have a fit and the car with do stupid shit. The xr6t is unable to have things like this done because the ECU protects everything.

In other words, only way to raise boost is with an edit.

Looks like he's going to learn the hard way. Tell him to put a big vent to atmosphere bov on there too.

Do not boost using a boost controller will cause problems like leaning out which can cause his motor to blow

heya , yer thats kinda what i figured, i already told him to expect this, but i also wasnt 100% sure, but its gotta be logical, for every extra bit of output you add, there has to be an upgrade to cope. Ill find out tomoz how it all went, i know they did the work this afternoon.... I wonder how then they got around the ECU....

It will have a fit and the car with do stupid shit. The xr6t is unable to have things like this done because the ECU protects everything.

In other words, only way to raise boost is with an edit.

Looks like he's going to learn the hard way. Tell him to put a big vent to atmosphere bov on there too.

I told him to add that but he was like " nah i dont need that" lolzzz i was like Grrrrr! But im not an expert so i figured id ask more knowledgeable ppls here :)

You can't get around ecu tried it on mates xr6 tell him best bet is go see a tuner that deals with xr6t's my mate got a stage 1 kit done for 2k including tuning which was bigger injectors metal piping and flash tune gained him 80rwkw

My mate is into his xr6 turbo first thing first is get intercooler piping done. The stock plasticpiping is designed to burst at anything over stock then tell him to get a flash tune. Stock intercooler is fine for up to 400rwkw

Thanx dude, shall be passing all these comments onto him. I told him to at least join some forums first and as some questions and read. but nope I cant tell him .

anyone know where i can buy more boost so i can install some on my car? cant seam to find it on just jap....

Yawns.... more for his benefit than mine... but i did make a post re Turbo Timers not been safe for car theft... u can comment on that :)

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/376892-trubo-timers-not-safe-for-theft-of-car/

Edited by nathanau

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hello, sorry for being late to join the discussion, but my clock just died on me.   Ive tried to look at Michaels digital clock repair.docx and it doesnt work maybe the file has expired.   Please let me know if you can re upload it or take some youtube videos to show us how to get the clock installed? thanks
    • I thought that might be the case, thats what I'll start saving for. Thanks for the info 
    • Ps i found the below forum and it seems to be the same scenario Im dealing with. Going to check my ECU coolant temp wire tomorrow    From NICOclub forum: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Thu Apr 11, 2013 7:23 am I am completely lost on this. Car ran perfectly fine when I parked it at the end of the year. I took the engine out and painted the engine bay, and put a fuel cell with an inline walbro 255 instead of the in tank unit I had last year. After reinstalling everything, the engine floods when the fuel pump primes. if i pull the fuel pump fuse it'll start, and as soon as I put the fuse back in it starts running ridiculously rich. I checked the tps voltage, and its fine. Cleaned the maf as it had some dust from sitting on a shelf all winter, fuel pressure is correct while running, but wont fire until there is less than 5psi in the lines. The fuel lines are run correctly. I have found a few threads with the same problem but no actual explanation of what fixed it, the threads just ended. Any help would be appreciated. Rb25det s1 walbro255 fuel pump nismo fpr holset hx35 turbo fmic 3" exhaust freddy intake manifold q45tb q45 maf   Re: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Fri Apr 12, 2013 5:07 am No, I didn't. I found the problem though. There was a break in one of the ecu coolant temp sensor wires. Once it was repaired it fired right up with no problems. I would have never thought a non working coolant temp sensor would have caused such an issue.
    • Hi sorry late reply I didnt get a chance to take any pics (my mechanics on the other side of the city) but the plugs were fouled from being too rich. I noticed the MAF wasn't genuine, so I replaced it with a genuine green label unit. I also swapped in a different ignitor, but the issue remains. I've narrowed it down a bit now: - If I unplug and reconnect the fuel lines and install fresh spark plugs, the car starts right up and runs perfectly. Took it around the block with no issues - As soon as I shut it off and try to restart, it won't start again - Fuel pressure while cranking is steady around 40 psi, injectors have good spray, return line is clear, and the FPR vacuum is working. It just seems like it's getting flooded after the first start I unplugged coolant sensors to see if its related to ECU flooding but that didnt make a difference. Im thinking its related to this because this issue only started happening after fixing coolant leaks and replacing the bottom part of the stock manifolds coolant pipe. My mechanic took off the inlet to get to get to do these repairs. My mechanics actually just an old mate who's retired now so ill be taking it to a different mechanic who i know has exp with RBs to see if they find anything. If you have any ideas please send em lll give it a try. Ive tried other things like swapping the injectors, fuel rail, different fuel pressure regs, different ignitor, spark plugs, comp test and MAF but the same issue persists.
    • My return flow is custom and puts the return behind the reo, instead of at the bottom. All my core is in the air flow, rather than losing some of it up behind the reo. I realise that the core really acts more as a spiky heatsink than as a constant rate heat exchanger, and that therefore size is important.... but mine fits everything I needed and wanted without having to cut anything, and that's worth something too. And there won't be a hot patch of core up behind the reo after every hit, releasing heat back into the intake air.
×
×
  • Create New...