Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I Blew My Head Gasket and in need of replacemt. Just wanting to know what the standard thickness is for and r33 skyline?? Im pretty keen to get a cometic kit off ebay and just wanting to know if i should get a thinner or thicker one and will i have to get my tuned again if i do.. Its standard internals runnin 10psi on stock setup currently 220rwhp an a SAFC 2 tune any info would be appreciated. i had a look and there is very little information around thanks

Buy a standard head gasket. You don't need anything different

You also need to find out why you blew the headgasket.....it's not very common in these engines unless there are tune problems or overheating issues. Both of which, will not be corrected by choosing MLS for a head gasket

You blew your headgasket with 220rwhp and you want to upgrade the headgasket?? There are people making 500rwhp+ on the standard head gasket. As Elite said, focus your efforts and $$ on the reason why it blew.

use the genuine Nissan head gasket like it was said above head gaskets don't fail on there own accord. if you over heated and your head is wrapped it will leak no matter what. and i was running 17psi for 3 years on my rb25 and never had an issue with the stock head gasket.

Edited by Greekos

You blew your headgasket with 220rwhp and you want to upgrade the headgasket?? There are people making 500rwhp+ on the standard head gasket. As Elite said, focus your efforts and $$ on the reason why it blew.

We've seen more like 1000hp on the standard ones with no problems. The issue this guy is going to have is he will put on a commetic and, as stated above, if the surface grind is not perfect, the gasket will not seal properly and it will end up blowing out. Then there will be another person bagging out commetic gaskets as a result.

When i pulled out 6th cylinender spark plug it was wet (the only one so im guessing its from this location).... The previous owner screwd the thread up on cyliner 6(Cross threaded) and the plug goes in on a slight angle and not sure if all the way down as it should but still it goes in secure and i think most of the way. Could mayb the position from where it fires mite have any affect on the gasket.... And is cometic an upgrade i would have just thoughtit just better quaity so just longer lasting.

Its a metal gasket so yes its anupgrade to handle more boost it does not mean quality is better. Nissan gasket is high quality it just isnt metsl but as proven by many its up to the task of high poeer and boost also has advantage of being ALOT more Forgiving in the surface flatness.

also has advantage of being ALOT more Forgiving in the surface flatness.

This is HUGE for a standard engine. Different thing if you are rebuilding an engine and have everything apart and can take your time getting all the surfaces perfectly flat.

Standard Nissan Headgasket vote from me!

If the spark plug is cross threaded then while the head is off get it fixed. This should not even be something to think about. Just do it. Think of a motor as being a mathmatical equation, if just one calculation is wrong then the end result is wrong. Your motor blew a head gasket, hmmmmm, what could have caused that ?

Thanks for the replies so is this option a safe one:

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Nissan-OEM-Gasket-Kit-RB25-RB25DET-ECR33-R33-Skyline-/200230253955?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2e9ea73583

Yeah not sure why it blew it has never overheated and is always run on tuber timer... It had been running rough on cold starts and idel (as if if it was missing) for a couple of weeks before it blew (when it heats up its fine) I though it mite by the water in the chamber. they day it did properly blow huge amounts of smoke one day it was sitting in a driveway on idel for about 15 min .

Does anyone no the thread tap size and pitch for the spark plugs

Thanks for the replies so is this option a safe one:

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Nissan-OEM-Gasket-Kit-RB25-RB25DET-ECR33-R33-Skyline-/200230253955?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2e9ea73583

Yeah not sure why it blew it has never overheated and is always run on tuber timer... It had been running rough on cold starts and idel (as if if it was missing) for a couple of weeks before it blew (when it heats up its fine) I though it mite by the water in the chamber. they day it did properly blow huge amounts of smoke one day it was sitting in a driveway on idel for about 15 min .

Does anyone no the thread tap size and pitch for the spark plugs

Turbo timer has nothing to do with it.

Detonation usually as a result of too much ignition timing or overheating. Considering you ruled out overheating, that is probably not going to be the cause. the running rough for a couple of weeks would have been due to water getting into the cylinder and causing a wet spark until the heat evaporated it or it blew out the exhaust.

The spark plug thread you should let your engineer fix it when he does the cylinder head service.

and buy the gasket from Nissan, stop frigging around with Ebay and cheap shortcut options. Get the proper gear and do it right otherwise you'll end up doing it twice

Also:

RB25DET engine gasket kit comes with everything you need to overhaul your engine. Kit includes new seals, o-rings, valve seals, stock headgasket, intake manifold gasket, exhaust manifold gasket, throttle body gasket, chain tensioner gasket, AIV gasket, turbo outlet gaskets, valve cover gaskets, spark well gaskets, and many more!

The above listing for the link you provided - WTF is a spark well gasket?

The picture shows a gasket set for an RB26 but the listing says RB25. It also says EVERYTHING you need to overhaul your engine.

I don't see rings and bearings? And if I'm being a picky cunt, it's also missing the half moon seals

just order the gasket from Nissan they really arnt that expensive!!! and it will blow agian if you dont work out whats going on, i mean who is to say that when the plugs been threaded metal shavings have gone into the cylinder and stuffed up the bore, gasket and pistons!

You said you have a SAFC 2 tuned on there and making 220hp mabe the tune on that is shit and detonating its head off? what fuel are you putting in it 98? what is the SAFC tuned for?

seems odd seing i made 256hp with stock computer, stock side mount just a pod and 3" exhaust on 9psi?

Go get a vrs gasket kit from just jap or kudosmotorsports comes with everything you need for head rebuild all genuine nissan parts and probably costs less then just buying a HG alone from nissan.

you posted asking for advice. listen to it! it's sound. you don't need a fancy MLS gasket. you need to do a few simple things.

step 1, find out why it blew a headgasket. they do not just fail due to misalignment of the planets. there has to be something wrong for a headgasket to blow out.

step 2, buy VRS kit from nissan or some retailer. justjap have the RB25 kit for $280. http://www.justjap.com/store/product.php?productid=19740&cat=&page=1 that kit includes the headgasket plus all the other little head bits you should be replacing.

step 3, remove head and send it off for head service, that includes getting the cross threaded plug hole fixed and anything else it needs.

step 4, get block checked and if needed get it machined too (probably get away without it but check it to be sure)

step 5, refit the head using the GENUINE NISSAN VRS kit.

step 6, ?????

step 7, profit

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I hadn't thought about the variable power steering assist. Presumably, it will always be the same level of assist as you get in an S14. The R32/3/4 are either helliishly heavy (at low speeds) if the solenoid is not powered at all, or hellishly too light (at high speed) if it is powered all the time. I presume that it is PWM controlled on those cars. I hadn't thought about the S cars not having variable assist. ugh. What crappy plebby cars they must be!  
    • Hmm yeah that is a good point. It looks like it'll just bolt in with no real issue besides maybe the bushings being different. My other concern was that 2 pin plug that I assume is used in some way to control the rack solenoid depending on the speed signal from the ecu. The DMAX rack doesn't even have that plug though so, don't think it'll matter. Might just order the rack and see how it goes. Will update this when I figure something out
    • I'd say it's a fair bet that the feed and return fluid lines will be in different enough spots that you would need to come up with a way to cut the originals short and adapt with new hard line adaption or braided teflon hoses or somesuch. But really, you have the car, you have the photos of the DMAX rack - you should be able to go out there and see for yourself whether they're in the same or different spots.
    • I've been doing some looking around and honestly was just considering throwing a new rack at it. I saw that the dmax silvia rack bolts up into the 33 with the silvia bushings but not sure if the high pressure lines will sit in the correct spot. I believe other version of the 33 rack are the same/similar to the racks that can be opened up without as much fuss so I assume the dmax rack would fit but any ideas?
    • I've never played with one, but I would expect that you are correct. That slot looks like it is intended to be used to unscrew the end, and the flats on the body would be better than grabbing it around the round bit with a pipe wrench. So, yeah, probably unscrews. You'll probably have to make a tool to drive in that slot.
×
×
  • Create New...