Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I Need help :

I have looked through the topics and cant find an answer specific to my needs and the info simply isnt available in the UK. :teehee:

I have a series one with a rb26 conversion through a late 33GTR box with dual syncros. It is running just over 500bhp at the hubs. Pretty much everything has been uprated to past gtr spec except the rear suspension which is still standard apart from bilsteins so I want to uprate the back end in one go .

I also have an RS Four S with stagea specific Nismo S tune supension .This is way better than my current Bilstein set up even though it is only 1500 miles old . Problem is that these have a fork fitting on the rears like all Ss and Rs 260s . I have previously tried swopping the diffs and hubs when attempting to use an RS four S LSD but they dont swop over so easily.

So rather than mess about the plan is to rebuild a back end using an RS four S subframe (already sourced)with the Nismo suspension (because I already have it) to the series one and use a HICAS locking bar

I already have a set of autech suspension top go back on the S

While I am building the new back end I can fit adjustable arms and poly bushes and change the lot in one go. I can then use my current diff which has had a GTR LSD fitted and keep the original Stagea ratios.

I dont want to do a complete GTR swop if it means having to change the front diff.

Unless of course any one has a better solution ?

Edited by RSVFOURUK

Yes there is an easier way but as you have purchased all the other parts anyway its too late. You will be redusing your rear track width so your current wheel offset may be an issue but you will be able to run more dish :) What hubs & half shafts are you going to use?

If there is an easier way please explain .

Dont worry about the parts Ive already got.

I also want to keep the wheels as have just had them redone with new toyos. Plus i think they suit the car

IMG_0435.jpg

I have the GTR diff (for the LSD) and 6 x 1 GTR axles (because they are thicker and stronger than the 5 x1 or 3 x 2 Stagea ones) but kept the stock hubs so I could keep my Bilsteins but you may as well change the lot since you want the fork type. I have a theory that the 4.083 Stagea front diff would be within tolerance of the GTR 4.111 diff as far as the Atessa is concerned ( although I have 2 GTR diffs myself because they were readily available). The difference according to my calulator is about 0.7% which is probably less than some tyre wear would produce. Joe Kyle who did the job also put the Stagea abs rings back on because they were different from the GTR ones.

So, can you use the stag gears in the gtr diff?

Can you use the gtr lsd in the stag diff?

They are both R200 right?

If your using the gtr diff for the 6bolt axles, do the gtr diffs bolt into the stag (rsfourv) rear cradle?

Kiwi you mentioned the abs ring being different, that would be to do with the different attesa systems (attesa ets vs attesa etspro), so why wouldnt you then use the gtr (r33?) attesa system if your looking to get the most out of your stag?

How hard is it to swap the gear sets in the front diff (ie: do you need to remove the engine first)?

Ok you can use the GTR center in the rs4 housing with the rs4 gearing. So altessa pump mount is kept etc, the larger gtr cover can be used with minor mods to fit (grinder)

Use the 6 bolt (non vspec) axles and a narrow cradle ie s14 non hicas.

No need to change the hubs as Kiwi has said so no need to change to fork suspension. But you may aswell as you have the suspension. Use R33-34 gtr hubs

If you want to keep the wider cradle you need to use z32tt axles as they have the wider track like the rs4, axles are 6 bolt on tt and 5 bolt on non turbo.

When you replace the cradle bushes use gtst not gtr bushes because the gtr's are longer.

IMO with the parts you have allready just run spacers on the rear if you need too.

Edited by rb30dett

So, can you use the stag gears in the gtr diff?

Can you use the gtr lsd in the stag diff?

They are both R200 right?

If your using the gtr diff for the 6bolt axles, do the gtr diffs bolt into the stag (rsfourv) rear cradle?

Kiwi you mentioned the abs ring being different, that would be to do with the different attesa systems (attesa ets vs attesa etspro), so why wouldnt you then use the gtr (r33?) attesa system if your looking to get the most out of your stag?

How hard is it to swap the gear sets in the front diff (ie: do you need to remove the engine first)?

  1. yes
  2. yes
  3. yes
  4. yes, but rs4 (auto) rear cradles are wider so gtr axles are too short to use on rs4 cradles.
  5. not worth the trouble, very little to gain.
  6. See question 1

Edited by rb30dett

Thanks rb30dett, its rare that someone actually answers so succinct and definatively, cheers!

So with regard to #4, your suggesting that z32 turbo axles can be used to resolve this issue?

and #5, although alittle tedious, it can be done & there is an advantage however small it maybe? I mean Nissan evolved this system for a reason & every GTR is quicker than the last, so why not take advantage of this? As going pro would give 4wheel semi-independant torque splitting & ABS, rather than just front/rear. That has to be of some advantage? If so, just changing the ABS rings, the G-sensor & Attesa control module be all thats required? Or do i need to change pumps aswell?

Edited by Zorro

Kiwi you mentioned the abs ring being different, that would be to do with the different attesa systems (attesa ets vs attesa etspro), so why wouldnt you then use the gtr (r33?) attesa system if your looking to get the most out of your stag?

For a start I don't have one and I would have to get the computer and a set of abs rings for the front different sensors etc. not to mention wiring .

Was just a small job to swap the rings at the back.

Thanks rb30dett, its rare that someone actually answers so succinct and definatively, cheers!

So with regard to #4, your suggesting that z32 turbo axles can be used to resolve this issue?

and #5, although alittle tedious, it can be done & there is an advantage however small it maybe? I mean Nissan evolved this system for a reason & every GTR is quicker than the last, so why not take advantage of this? As going pro would give 4wheel semi-independant torque splitting & ABS, rather than just front/rear. That has to be of some advantage? If so, just changing the ABS rings, the G-sensor & Attesa control module be all thats required? Or do i need to change pumps aswell?

#4: Yes I stumbled onto a complete z32 rear at an importers and realised they were the same width of the rs4 auto. The z32tt had a viscus lsd and axles were same size (thickness as GTR) & 6 bolt. They look like a rs4 rear with r32 control arms & hubs etc. Go to an importers and measure for yourself Don't just take my word. Again don't get active lsd axles either.

#5 everything will need changing. Not imposible but I just don't see the point? its your car mate so go for it if it works out let us know. IMO the time & money would be better spent in other areas and would provide more bang for your buck etc.

Cool cheers mate, given me some solid ideas of what to do with the rear of mine now! As for upgrading other areas, well im running out of 'other' areas to upgrade and i think it would be pretty cool so eventually i probably will do this mod (i let you know how it goes, possibly with lap time comparo if i can be arsed)! The RB30 is almost ready to go in, so driveline is next on the agenda!

Cool cheers mate, given me some solid ideas of what to do with the rear of mine now! As for upgrading other areas, well im running out of 'other' areas to upgrade and i think it would be pretty cool so eventually i probably will do this mod (i let you know how it goes, possibly with lap time comparo if i can be arsed)! The RB30 is almost ready to go in, so driveline is next on the agenda!

LOL I have done everything. But now it's too painfull to drive on street so I may go in a different direction.

Yes you are!

Just got my car on the road again pleased with the power from the RB30 but forgotten how the suspension is geared towards speed rather than comfort. Have been getting used to the Auto Camry that I bought to go to work in while my car was being built!

Its OK though I will do some racing - club stuff etc and go to the drags just to establish some times and keep the Camry to hack around town in. Then in a few years if I don't smash up my Stagea I will reconfigure it to make it more streetable while still reasonably rapid.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The fab work can be as simple as a couple of silicon hoses and clamps to the factory piping. 
    • Just sounds like either way you need to do some fab work to get everything to fit, so why limit yourself at that point? If the GCG high flow option is zero effort in and out swap though I'd probably do that. It's almost certainly lowest risk, lowest cost, etc. The HKS GTIII-RS option that Kapr mentioned is laughably expensive for what it is, they charge the exact same for two turbos on the RB26 so their margins are off the charts on that thing.
    • Intake manifold is not a part of the issue. The turbo bolts to the exhaust manifold. That is easy. But close your eyes and picture the physical situation. That is a T3 flange on the manifold and a T3 flange on the turbo. As long as any new turbo has a T3 flange on the exhaust housing, that exhaust housing will bolt to the exhaust manifold. This places the exhaust housing in the same place as the stock one. But now move your mental attention a little further forward. The location of the compressor housing is set by the length of the turbo's core. The stock turbo had a long core. Let's say that it is..... 100mm long. So that would place the compressor housing 100mm forward of the exhaust housing. But a highflow, might well have a centre core that is shorter. Let's say that it is only 70mm long. Now the compressor housing will be 30mm further back in the engine bay than the stock one. This DOES move the turbo's compressor outlet backwards. It also moves the compressor's inlet backwards. You will very likely have to do some work to both the inlet and outlet piping to make everything connect again. I am not say this to make it out to be a bigger deal than it is. I am just pointing out that "bolt on" is sometimes not quite bolt on. The highflow from GCG that Murray linked above (https://gcg.com.au/turbo-charger-upgrade-skyline-gtst-2iu-xtrgts-s1.html ) uses a core that is the same length as the stock core, and so does not require this extra work. It will look very much like the stock turbo. No-one uses GTR turbos of any flavour (stock, or aftermarket) in a single turbo application on RB20/25. It's not a thing. Yes, people have been putting on GT3076, GTX3076 (and bigger and smaller versions of those) and G30s (of various sizes) onto RB20/25 since forever. But these are not "bolt on". Everything except the 4 bolts to the exhaust manifold change with these. And genuine Garretts are expensive. Non-gen, like Pulsar, etc, are cheaper, variously as good or nearly as good. But still not bolt on. No-one in the right mind would pay for an HKS turbo. Not in this modern day and age. Well, yes, the GCG highflow. You could ask HG what he can do to make the compressor housing sit in the original location. There are surely others doing highflows around the world. And some of the eBay/Temu ones (as reported by Dose) work and don't die. Bit of a lottery though. I would send your turbo to GCG (here in Oz) to be highflowed if you want a trivial no-extra-work option. But seriously, the work required to change inlet and outlet piping is not that hard. That's a boost control problem, not a turbo problem.
    • Thank you all for the replys 🙂 I know that intake would be different but that is one pipe at it is not that hard to get(custom one). I meant mainly bolt to the stock manifold and the turbo elbow. I looked and many sites/forums but they are just "old" with some old HKS turbos from GT-R i guess? What about some Garrets?  Or any other turbo? Is there even a turbo which i can just bolt on? 😄 And yeah i know about that new HKS but that is like 2000k USD without taxes/shipping in here   Iam getting a touch up tune but my "problem" is that on the "not" hot day iam getting peaks around 0,9 bar...and when it was around 15 Celsious i saw peak around 1 bar which is just too much for stock turbo. And of course turbo is old and i like to get some new one for a piece of mind 🙂 
    • I'm working on the assumption that our friend Jasmine here is a Russian (or, possibly Ukrainian) spammer/spambot, based purely on the number of such that I have been having to neuter in the last few weeks. IP address for the OP above was in WA. But that could have been via VPN. Posting at quarter to 4 in the morning is a good sign of being from somewhere in Europe. The last Jasmine that I kicked in the cooch was IP addressed in Ukraine. Even that could have been via VPN, and the bitchbot could have been from Russia, Serbia, China or anywhere. Regardless, was a spambot, so I killed it with fire. The fact that our new friend Jasmine here did not respond in any way to my tart query strongly suggests to me that this OP was just the establishment phase of a user able to be activated for spamming in a week, or 3 or 10.
×
×
  • Create New...