Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi Brendan,

Their ROTA-Force - copies of the advan RS wheels haha

and thank you :)

Get off my thread both of you !!! spam.gif

HAHHAHAAAA.........Jonno your forgiven because I still need to pick up the cleaning stuff from you BEFORE you go overseas...Brendo - until we have another catch up session and talk for 4 hours about cars again your not forgiven !!

Christmas is the busiest time of the year for me as I work in hospitality....have been trying to get motivated to do car stuff but the 11 hour shifts 6 days a week are not making life any easier....

I have lots of tasks and little projects lined up.....but have to find the time to get started on them...and by the looks of it....not much is going to happen before new years.

This morning had other plans for me though....I woke up three hours earlier than I usually do and I had some spare time so decided to get my wiper blades changed - noticed the back one had become frayed and was "hanging" behind when the wiper was in use. This should explain what I mean

DSCN0686.jpg

Anyways..I changed them this morning and now have a new set of wiper blades :) Purposely left them a little longer than the last ones....so hopefully more of my windscreen will get cleaned..I remember having cut the front left extra short by accident last time round.

Also might quickly jot down some of the tasks that I have in mind...will tick them off slowly over the next few weeks

1. Paint calipers black and NISSAN writing in a nice red.....(should set off the gold and silver rims nicely and look a lot "healthier" than the grey old look they presently display)

2. Finish the window trims....(have left them sanded halfway....really need to get to this asap)

3. Build a ramp....and get the front of my car up...so that I can work on getting black mesh in front of the intercooler....(to make the front of the car look clean and stealthy)

4. Wrap a few hoses and fabricate a turbo shield.....(before I start melting stuff)

5. Get my rear bar heat proofed (just around the exhaust tip - flames look cool....but fire is HOT yes.gif)

6. Paint bits in the engine bay

7. Look into the sourcing of my new rims tongue.gif

Took the car up to the hills for a mid morning run....besides being bloody hot....it was awesome fun...some beautiful roads and views worship.gif

DSCN0746.jpg

DSCN0781.jpg

DSCN0726.jpg

Drive by video........................

Exhaust on idle video......................

Edited by jez NF

Just a heads up..............

Seems like a few people are having this problem (judging by the number or "reposts")

So if anyone tries to post in this thread...there is an error message that pops up when you click post....and it appears that your post has failed......dont worry..it usually comes through on the first go..........its strange (and annoying) and it happens to me all the time as well....just click forums or another of the tabs on top like I do after you click post and see the error message and then re-navigate to this page and you should see your post here yes.gif

and thanks.gif Lachlan

Edited by jez NF
  • 2 weeks later...

Today was another productive day.....

Went to Brendan's place for the day.....spent heaps of time chatting about car stuff as usual...had an awesome steak sandwich at the pub nearby...and trial fitted some wheels nyaanyaa.gif

Now part of the decision to change my rims was because of the fact that my current ones are 17 inches...I personally reckon they look too small and feel 18 inch rims are the sweet spot for skylines. Also mine have a decent offset but I have always wanted to run spacers just to get a more aggressive look. Brendo happens to have a very similar style to mine...but in 18s. They are shadow chrome (silver shade) or something like that...cant remember what he told me now...

SO....my options are...

1. Buy the rims from him and paint the middles gold like my current ones....

Advantages: Bigger dish on his ones....actual dish on the fronts as well....broader rims = wider tyres = I love the look from the back...no gutter rash on left hand side rims like mine.

Disadvantages: The offset on his are actually weaker..so will definitely have to run bolt on spacers

2. Buy the Te37s in Matte or Satin black

Advantages: I will finally have my much awaited black on black look...I can choose my offset and rim size etc

Disadvantages: Money honey

Opinions and suggestions welcome thanks.gif

Few pics to help people make a decision

Old versus "potential" new

DSCN0803.jpg

What his look like on my car (note: I will be changing the tyre profile...I like the meaty nascar look...so need more "tyre" on the rears)

DSCN0804.jpg

Driveway of win...rear view

DSCN0791.jpg

Driveway of win...front view

DSCN0796.jpg

Close up

DSCN0806.jpg

They have a much deeper dish look

DSCN0801.jpg

i think the silver rims look awesome. imho i really dont like the gold/silver ones you have at all. te37's are amazeballs, but if the silver ones you mate has can be bought at a sweet price, i say do it!! and PLEASE dont paint any part of them gold.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I guess one thing that might be wrong is the manifold pressure.  It is a constant -5.9 and never moves even under 100% throttle and load.  I would expect it to atleast go to 0 correct?  It's doing this with the OEM MAP as well as the ECU vacuum sensor. When trying to tune the base map under load the crosshairs only climb vertically with RPM, but always in the -5.9 column.
    • AHHHH gotchaa, I'll do that once I am home again. I tried doing the harness with the multimeter but it seems the car needed a jump, there was no power when it was in the "ON" position. Not sure if I should use car battery jump starter or if its because the stuff that has been disconnect the car just does send power.
    • As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
    • It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
    • Probably not. A workshop grade scantool is my go to for proper Consult interrogation. Any workshop grade tool should do it. Just go to a workshop.
×
×
  • Create New...