Jump to content
SAU Community

Rsfour Front Shaft

adey88

By adey88,
in Four Door Family & Wagoneers

 Share

Recommended Posts

adey88 Collaborator

adey88

Posted
Posted

HiAll,

I have dropped the front drive shaft from my 1999 RSFour due to vibration whichhas seemed to fix the issue. Upon inspection of the shaft I can see that theend joints are notchy when turned which I’m guessing is causing the vibration.

As much fun as the car is in RWD does anybody know of a place that can servicethese joints (uni??) so they are smooth? Am I better off buying from Nissan -if so does anybody know the part number? Or maybe just a clean with somedegreaser and new grease??

Your help is appreciated....cheers,

Adrian

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/377608-rsfour-front-shaft/
Share on other sites
KiwiRS4T Grand Master

KiwiRS4T

Posted
Posted

No and Yes. They are designed to be not serviceable - i.e. there are no circlips to enable you to the joints apart - but in fact a driveshaft specialist can machine them open, replace the joints and balance them. You will have to ring around to find someone to do this or another member may be able to tell you where it can be done. All front drive shafts are the same - Stagea, GTS4 and GTR.

If you decide to buy a new one please post up the price although I suspect it will be considerable!

adey88 Collaborator

adey88

Posted
  • Author
Posted

No and Yes. They are designed to be not serviceable - i.e. there are no circlips to enable you to the joints apart - but in fact a driveshaft specialist can machine them open, replace the joints and balance them. You will have to ring around to find someone to do this or another member may be able to tell you where it can be done. All front drive shafts are the same - Stagea, GTS4 and GTR.

If you decide to buy a new one please post up the price although I suspect it will be considerable!

Thanks for that, I'll try and find a driveshaft specialist... Are you sure the shaft is the same as a GTR as they do look pretty small... I was under the assumption GTR had bigger shafts!

If somebody has the part number please let me know and I'll get some pricing from nissan....

cheers

wolverine Grand Master

wolverine

Posted
Posted

I just spoke to AJ @ Lincorp 02 8844 4400 (Parra Nissan) to buy some new front driveshaft nuts and bolts. He should be able to find the part number if you have your VIN handy.

If you need 4 new front driveshaft nuts and bolts let me know as I bought a bag of 10 or 12.

adey88 Collaborator

adey88

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I just spoke to AJ @ Lincorp 02 8844 4400 (Parra Nissan) to buy some new front driveshaft nuts and bolts. He should be able to find the part number if you have your VIN handy.

If you need 4 new front driveshaft nuts and bolts let me know as I bought a bag of 10 or 12.

Thanksfor that Wolverine - Had a chat to them and they need to order from japan asnobody has one in AU...

Nissan wanted ... wait for it.... $1231 for the front shaft (not sure if thatincluded postage as i didn’t bother asking).... Forget that - ill be eitherdriving RWD permanently or have my unit fixed

adey88 Collaborator

adey88

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Yeah, it is cheaper to remove your left kidney than buy some parts.

The vibration wouldn't happen to be coming from irregular rolling diameter of front to rear tyres by any chance?

Have you checked fluid levels on ATTESA as well?

Tell me about it, bloody expensive.... Its not the tyres as its been vibrating under load since I can remember plus the tyres are new... Most of my suspension has been replaced and just by turning the joints in the shaft by hand I can feel its very notchy and not smooth... I should check the attessa fluid though!

I have a spare unreconditioned driveshaft. Not really looking to sell it - was just going to get it recond at my leisure but if anyone is stuck for one you could have it for $150 posted.

Thanks Kiwi (bob) ill keep that in mind - ill see what it will cost to get mine recond' and get back to you....

Race__24 Experienced

Race__24

Posted
Posted

the trouble with the front shafts are that the angle never changes as the engine, transfer case and trans are all bolted together, so the load is always in the one spot. Realistically the could almost have gotten away with a solid shaft, but that wouldn't allow for any misalignment.

AAA34T Community Regular

AAA34T

Posted
Posted

yes the cv shafts are serviceable i got mine done 6 months ago at australian cv and power steering at granvile has done heaps of stageas cheap quick nice guys and their boots they put are stronger than any aftermarket one you can buy.They also do the cvs for a few dealers in parramatta.

call 96380022

Daleo Grand Master

Daleo

Posted
Posted

i have this problem also, mine is an rs4 series 1 stagea so will it be ok to take out the front shafts while i send them down to get fixed as i am located in n.t?

I could be wrong, but the CV shaft is what holds the wheel bearing & hub assembly together. You won't be able to drive with the CV shafts out; the wheels will fall off.

adey88 Collaborator

adey88

Posted
  • Author
Posted

yes the cv shafts are serviceable i got mine done 6 months ago at australian cv and power steering at granvile has done heaps of stageas cheap quick nice guys and their boots they put are stronger than any aftermarket one you can buy.They also do the cvs for a few dealers in parramatta.

call 96380022

Sorry guys I think we are talking about a different shaft - I am referring to the shaft that connects to the transfer case - see below pic:

post-65306-0-40114200-1316558970_thumb.jpg

BensDR30 Experienced

BensDR30

Posted
Posted

My Stag had a vibration under heavy acceleration - and a notchy shaft was the cause. My price for a new front shaft was a bit less than $1200, but not much. It had to get fixed somehow because I couldn't drive the car RWD only for any length of time - too much power & not enough grip.

Cost was around the $350 mark for new unis and balancing.

  • 10 years later...
stolen-gtr Proficient

stolen-gtr

Posted
Posted
On 9/22/2011 at 9:34 PM, BensDR30 said:

My Stag had a vibration under heavy acceleration - and a notchy shaft was the cause. My price for a new front shaft was a bit less than $1200, but not much. It had to get fixed somehow because I couldn't drive the car RWD only for any length of time - too much power & not enough grip.

Cost was around the $350 mark for new unis and balancing.

Hey Ben

Sorry to dig up an old thread!

This is exactly my problem too - i have PM'd you

Who did you get to fix up your front shaft??

Thanks man

  • 2 months later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • TurboTapin
      New fix for low tyre pressure from bmw

      By TurboTapin · Posted

      CTIS (Central Tire Inflation System) has existed since the 80's. I'm looking into buying a Hummer H1 and they generally included it. 
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      My idle is set at 950rpm though - Moving the timing around 20 degrees is not really what I'd call a calm idle. That said... neither is chop, by definition. The LS ECU likes to adjust timing to hold idle as opposed to air. It'd work, but generally speaking there'd be a discrepancy in the base idle and the IACV would want to move the timing around anyway to maintain said idle. I think I'm just going to keep the timing steady anyway. Preserve my engine mounts.  My aircon is now officially regassed. As the guy was reversing I noticed my reverse lights do not operate, along with my reverse cam. This is a bit distressing, because 100% of guides talk about which wire to connect to backup cams as "the goes with the [other color] wire". Often when doing conversions. Unfortunately the R34 colour wires aren't documented Unfortunately I had a T56 Magnum gearbox with it's reverse switch, which also isn't documented. Unfortunately there's definitely not documentation for people with both of these in the one car. Unfortunately I forgot. After many hours of this, I have a reverse cam and reverse lights again. The wire going through the trans tunnel to the reverse switch had broken. Upon inspection, it looks like this one wire had about 7 spade terminals and extensions in it.. for reasons I cannot possibly comprehend. I also spent the 750 hours required to clean up the wiring behind my head unit which now looks like this: This is a monumental improvement relative to what used to be there WRT triple gauges, head unit, traction control, wideband controller, and whatever the f**k OEM stuff still exists there in various states of connectivity/needed. Next step is to check in at the Exhaust shop to see/confirm how much clearance I have, to decide what mid mufflers or 'resonators' (which are just straight through, narrower mufflers) I can add and hopefully cut out a lot of exhaust leaks, pinhole, v-band or otherwise. But first step will be to 'take a look' before the next step.
    • Dose Pipe Sutututu
      Another little story of weird shit happening

      By Dose Pipe Sutututu · Posted

      Fark the AFM card and Nistune, Haltech Nexus S3, DBW, cruise control, flex fuel, dis dat.  
    • MBS206
      R34 gtt rb25det neo timing belt kit

      By MBS206 · Posted

      It's most likely the bolt/bush where the cover bolts back wore and allowed cover to move forward.
    • GTSBoy
      Another little story of weird shit happening

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Still haven't put the injectors and R35 AFM in so we can tune the bloody thing for the HG highflow it got mid last year! I think I can forecast the upgrade path to a bigger twin scroll, external gate, Haltech, flex setup, Samsonas, dis dat, etc will be .... a while away!
×
×
  • Create New...