Jump to content
SAU Community

Registering A Non-Complied Car, Anyone Done This?


Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

I've just bought myself a 32 GTR which i was led to beleive had previously been registered in aus and was complied ready to go, turns out this isn't true :(

So basically i need to put the car through transport and get an Australian VIN number stamped onto the chassis before i can proceed to register it, has anyone done this before? i'm really concerned about whats going to happen when it reaches transport as its had a little work done to it and is also a bit rough around the edges atm, the main concern i have though is it has an RB30 bottom end in it.

I'm also worried about the costs involved if they need to put side-intrusion bars in and change seatbelts, etc..

Any info will be appreciated,

Cheers,

Daniel.

Yeah i have a few times , does it have all the paperwork? (i.e import approval , engineers certificate if necessary , ais inspection ) , if it was a pre 89 , it will need aus spec seatbelts , babyseat bolts , r/h mirror in memory and usually the ais station puts the vin on the car with number/letter punch thingys

It's not a blue gtr with a odd looking front bar?

It did have an odd bar so yeah its it, its a 12/1990 model, i have the import document with the approval number, and its been to an AIS and had an inspection done, failed for tint, "unapproved suspension mods" (coilovers) and no australian compliance plate, tint has been removed, and the coilovers will be removed if it fails for it again where i'm going... just concerned about getting the compliance plate/vin number.

It did have an odd bar so yeah its it, its a 12/1990 model, i have the import document with the approval number, and its been to an AIS and had an inspection done, failed for tint, "unapproved suspension mods" (coilovers) and no australian compliance plate, tint has been removed, and the coilovers will be removed if it fails for it again where i'm going... just concerned about getting the compliance plate/vin number.

is this the one tha was up prospect mechanic behind the iga???

  • 2 weeks later...

Sure is :thumbsup:

ahh so its not registered haha i was so angry when i saw that thing i also have a blue r32 gtr that has a 26/30 going in it atm couldnt belive when i saw urs then they said it has a 26/30 in it to hahahaha

haha so we gonna start a blue r32gtr 26/30 club or what?

mine is not worthy of pics atm as it is still in peices and half primer getting painted soon voodoo blue ;)

Mine is soon to be under the gun also :thumbsup:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Waaay ahead of ya....(evil laugh!!) Will show the fitment and spec details later when it isnt as rainy !
    • Thanks Dose.....    I appreciate it!!
    • I'll probably be putting the shit box back on the dyno again soon, I want to dial in the closed loop boost control properly. I'll have a camera facing the car/motor for fun too. Just note, there are essentially 3x 10AN inlets going into the catch can and 1x going back to the intake pipe. Most of the time the catch can "return" to the sump actually is the crank case breather, pushing air out.
    • I have the R3C with a Nismo slave and by no means does it behave like a stocker, it ain’t THAT bad. On take off just give a bit more throttle than you would say a coppermix and it’s fine. It will not slip though.   
    • Okay. Final round of testing done. Got a friend to hook up a fancy scanner to the car and we also ran some compression and leakdown tests, she is healthy.  The MAF was definitely the culprit. So for future reference anyone with similar issues that find this thread. I suggest the following steps, in order of affordability:   Check your spark plugs for any fouling, replace plugs if they are bad or re adjust the gaps making it narrower (0.8mm would be good). Check every coil's resistance with a multimeter. It can be done by probing the IB and G pins on the coil pack. Resistance should be around 1.4 (+/- 0.1) Ohms Check the MAF. If you have Nissan connect or a good scanner with the 14 adapter it should allow you to see the voltage on the MAF reading should be around 1.1 - 1.2V when car is idling. But if you don't, buy a new MAF from Amazon and test, then return it. (For instance, I got a Chinese one for $40 that was reporting 1.3v on idle). If you still have scanner, you can run tests on the injectors to see if they are working, just remember to unplug the fuel pump fuse/relay and have no pressure on the line. Then listen for the noises that the injectors make. Clean/replace injectors as needed. Once you find the issue and fix, order thousands of dollars worth of OEM parts to refresh unrelated things (Optional)   PS: Thanks to the absolute legends of this forum for the responses and help to someone that went a bit over their head. (me)
×
×
  • Create New...