Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all,

Just noticed a problem my r33 gtst, running 12psi, front mount, exhaust, turbosmart bov, is blowing a shit load of white smoke when im into it.

It looks really bright white like tyre smoke and it keeps coming out for a bit after you give it a bit..

Any ideas guys, i have searched but cant find a straight answer.

Thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/378001-billowing-white-smoke/
Share on other sites

Check your cam cover breathers/catch can breather to make sure they aren't kinked. Check the turbo oil drain to make sure it is not kinked.

If these are all ok and not blocked, then yeah....turbo is likely to be stuffed

Check your cam cover breathers/catch can breather to make sure they aren't kinked. Check the turbo oil drain to make sure it is not kinked.

If these are all ok and not blocked, then yeah....turbo is likely to be stuffed

Ok ill check them out this arvo, i cant understand how the turbo could be stuffed, it still feels as if it is running fine, just blowing smoke.

is it sounding lumpy or off beat at low rpm like idle?

do a compresion check :/

mine was blowing white smoke thought it was a turbo but really it was loss of comp in 6.Turbos are fine..................

new bottom end for me!

  • 2 years later...

Hey guys I'm having the same sort of problem, I just recently swapped my commodore for a r33 and it will only blow smoke when it starts to come on boost, I had a quick look over the engine to see any problems and there was a kinked hose coming out the top which seemed to be a breather line of some sort? I fixed that and noticed there's oil all over my engine, turbo etc so I'll be degreasing that tomorrow and cleaning out the intercooler and pipes as there's oil in them. Hopefully this will tell me wether it's just the turbo or something major :/. Any other idea's? Also it's running rough as thought it has a lumpy cam, I've read a fair few posts on here about pcv valves and stem seals etc but how can I check these? I've got a mechanic coming to check it out tomorrow, compression test etc but his never worked on an rb before and just a bit nervous he won't know what his doing. Any opinions will be much appreciated thanks guys.

  • 1 month later...

Hey guys finally got enough time to do my compression test, done cold test first, WOT, all plugs removed , 8 reps of the engine each time each got tested twice,

Results from intercooler to cab

91

91

94

15

0

95

Gunna do a hot test then a wet test but at the current moment it's pretty obvious my engines gone to limiter heaven, any suggestions on simple ways to get back in the road? It's jump a simple daily drifter so don't want to fork out thousands just yet..

I assume your head would be totally rooted and possibly piston ring lands broken which won't necessarily be visible until you pull them out.

The fact you just asked if the cam gears can be salvaged means you should just get another cheap engine and throw it in. Don't bother pulling things apart and confusing yourself.

those parts can be salvaged. you might even find the engine can be fixed....its not all doom and gloom...but pull the head and check for what is stuffed.....no use worrying about it until you pull it down and find out what you need to fix/replace/machine.

if you have a mate that has an inspection camera you could poke it down the spark plug hole and have a look also...if you are lazy :)

i've seen some major damage in stock car motors that has been fixed.

Edited by Badgaz

Just swap it out for a cheap wrecker motor, get one that has a comp test and leak down test etc done so you know its in good nick then drop it in and off you go

Then pull yours down and rebuild forged or even 3ltr :D at your own leisure when you have decided its now to slow and you want more power

It happens to all of us at some point :P

considering the demand for these motors....finding a cheap wrecker motor even a cheap one is going to set you back near $1500-$2000. if he has only damaged the ring lands and not the bore he could just be up for a piston and rings....this is unlikely...but still possible...have a look....take some pics and report back...interesting that it wasn't cyl 1 or 6 that let go.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yes that’s what im trying to decide. Should I do stock gtt box or enclosed or open pod. 
    • Also, I note OP is in Melbourne, which begs the question... are you aware of how illegal your car will be with a turbo, and intercooler and any sort of filter change? I don't know how you can get past the "2 intake mods" "rule" that seems to exist in Vic. Fully engineered might or might not get you there.
    • If you have a turbo... then the ducting holes I used to feed the pod are not available because your intercooler likely uses them. If you have an intercooler, your IAT's are going to be goverened by how good your intercooler setup is. I'm yet to really see anyone check IAT with a snorkel/boxed pod/proper CAI versus and unshielded pod. It would be interesting! But I suspect that the differences would not be so noticeable as if you were N/A as the intercooler is where the air is being cooled.. and out in front where the FMIC would be is a pretty good spot for it.. When I was turbo I pushed the stock GTT box as far as I could and made some pretty good power out of it, and noticed on the street I never made the same power/boost. Then I did a before and after run with a pod filter versus the box and picked up about 9PSI from the same boost duty cycle and about 50KW instantly. I never ran the stock box again, and recently removed it for my N/A setup. The box is restrictive to a degree - Even with the V8 setup I noticed I picked up power by removing the box completely, so punching holes from the bottom of it to get air from the passenger guard *helps* but the most effective one in my case was simply having the ducts, a pod, and no box around it. In my experience, *more* air was better than cold air. The air (with ducts) will be cooled off as you start moving, and especially if you start moving fast (a race track). It actually moves around quite a bit as you can see.  
    • Well you could certainly buy or build an enclosure for a pod in that corner of the bay. It is absolutely vital that there is a nice big opening to let cold air in to it from the front or underside, otherwise it will just pull air in around the edges from the bay, and if that air is hot, you gain nothing from enclosing the pod. There is lots of good evidence around (including on here, see posts by @Kinkstaah for example) showing that pods pulling hot air from the bay is only a problem when you're static or slow in traffic, and that as soon as you get the car up and moving the air being grabbed by the pod cools down. Although that will obviously vary from car to car, whether there is a flow of cold air to the pod or if it all has to come through the radiator area, etc etc. Obviously, the whole exercise requires as much thought as anything else does. Doing the lazy thing will often end up being the dumb thing. The stock GTT airbox has a cold air snorkel to feed it from over the radiator. Shows that Nissan were thinking. The GT airbox is upside down compared to the turbo one, yeah? Inlet at the bottom, AFM/exit on the lid? That might make it harder to route the turbo inlet pipe using the GT airbox than a turbo one. That would probably be the main reason I'd consider not using it, not that it is too small and restrictive. I'm looking at a photo of one now and the inlet opening seems nice and large. Also seems to have the same type of snorkel that the turbo one has. Maybe all that's required is to make a less restrictive snorkel/cold air inlet, perhaps by punching down through the guard like I did.
    • Also seen this as an option 
×
×
  • Create New...