Jump to content
SAU Community

R32 Gts4 Vs Gtr Wheel Offset/size Difference

89 GTS-4
 Share

Recommended Posts

89 GTS-4 Enthusiast

89 GTS-4

Posted
Posted

Hi everyone. I only bought my gts4 a couple of weeks back and have started playing around with it. Already had a fair idea prior to purchasing that the driveline is much the same apart from the obvious 26 vs 20. What i couldnt confirm in the wheel offset thread is if gts4 is *exactly* the same offset/size choice as gtr?

Cheers for any help

GTSBoy Grand Master

GTSBoy

Posted
Posted

The GTS4 does not have the same flared guards as the GTR. The GTS4 uses the same wheels as the GTSt doesn't it? In which case they would be 16x6.5 with I think a +35 offset. The GTR uses 16x8 with a +30 offset and they are a reasonable fit on GTSts. I say reasonable because they put the tyres right out to the edge of the guards.

89 GTS-4 Enthusiast

89 GTS-4

Posted
  • Author
Posted

The GTS4 does not have the same flared guards as the GTR. The GTS4 uses the same wheels as the GTSt doesn't it? In which case they would be 16x6.5 with I think a +35 offset. The GTR uses 16x8 with a +30 offset and they are a reasonable fit on GTSts. I say reasonable because they put the tyres right out to the edge of the guards

Would make sence. In this case i would look at +35 or even +30 when buying rims?

GTSBoy Grand Master

GTSBoy

Posted
Posted

Well, that depends on what size wheels you want to put on. You need to get an idea of how much extra space is available to each side of your existing tyres (both front and rear because it will be different). Then use an on-line offset calculator or build your own in Excel, then put in the widths and offsets of any given wheels that you're interested in and look to see how much further inwards and outwards the rim edges move. You want to keep these changes within the space you have available. You also don't want the track to increase by more than an inch (I think) to keep it legal. And depending on the state that you're registering the car in, there are limits to how much wider the wheel can be anyway.

For example. My R32 (stock size 6.5" with +35 offset, actually the stock offset might be +38, but that doesn't matter) now has 8" wide wheels with +35 all around. These fit with space to spare - you can easily enough fit 9" on the rear with a different ofset (probably +45) but the 9" would rub on the front. I know that there is only a couple of mm available on the inside edge my tyres at the front and you could maybe get an 8.5" wheel in there and not stick out too far if it had a low enough offset to not push the inside edge onto the suspension arm. That would be just about all that you could fit though.

I think that 8" wide wheels on a GTSt are outside the legal width here in SA because they're more than 1" wider than stock. I know people manage to get wheels that wide through inspections though, so it's not a rule that is aggressively policed here. Your mileage may vary.

I think the best option for a normally driven street car is to have the same size wheels front and rear so you can do front to rear tyre rotation, which for me meant not putting 9" on the back. 7.5" wide wheels are available, but there is much better choice at 8", so I just went with that.

Beer Baron Grand Master

Beer Baron

Posted
Posted

yeah 17X8 or 17X9 with +30 all round will be a good choice. as above it means you can easily rotate tyres and wheels as needed. same goes in 16s. 16X8 or 16X9 +30 is a good choice. a great wheel option for R32 GTST/GTS4 is to get some R33 GTR wheels. they are made by BBS, forged, strong, and are 17X9 +30. with a set of 235s all round you shoud be laughing. :) they look great too.

89 GTS-4 Enthusiast

89 GTS-4

Posted
  • Author
Posted

yeah 17X8 or 17X9 with +30 all round will be a good choice. as above it means you can easily rotate tyres and wheels as needed. same goes in 16s. 16X8 or 16X9 +30 is a good choice. a great wheel option for R32 GTST/GTS4 is to get some R33 GTR wheels. they are made by BBS, forged, strong, and are 17X9 +30. with a set of 235s all round you shoud be laughing. :) they look great too.

Cheers beerbaron

Ive currently got starcorp impuls 18x8 me thinks but i wanna change em to some 17's i reckon. Or a different 18 set. Looking to swap :-P so making sure i get the right stuff.

Cheers for your help mate

89 GTS-4 Enthusiast

89 GTS-4

Posted
  • Author
Posted

On my 32 GTS4 i'm running 33GTR 17x9 +30. Thats the kind of width and offset that easily fits under a stock 32 guard...

Good to kow mate cheers. Swap you some 18x8 impuls!

  • 2 months later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      See if you can thermal epoxy a heatsink or two onto it?
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      The other problem was one of those "oh shit we are going to die moments". Basically the high spec Q50s have a full electric steering rack, and the povo ones had a regular hydraulic rack with an electric pump.  So couple of laps into session 5 as I came into turn 2 (big run off now, happily), the dash turned into a christmas tree and the steering became super heavy and I went well off. I assumed it was a tyre failure so limped to the pits, but everything was OK. But....the master warning light was still on so I checked the DTCs and saw – C13E6 “Heat Protection”. Yes, that bloody steering rack computer sitting where the oil cooler should be has its own sensors and error logic, and decided I was using the steering wheel too much. I really appreciated the helpful information in the manual (my bold) POSSIBLE CAUSE • Continuing the overloading steering (Sports driving in the circuit etc,) “DATA MONITOR” >> “C/M TEMPERATURE”. The rise of steering force motor internal temperature caused the protection function to operate. This is not a system malfunction. INSPECTION END So, basically the electric motor in the steering rack got to 150c, and it decided to shut down without warning for my safety. Didn't feel safe. Short term I'll see if I can duct some air to that motor (the engine bay is sealed pretty tight). Long term, depending on how often this happens, I'll look into swapping the povo spec electric/hydraulic rack in. While the rack should be fine the power supply to the pump will be a pain and might be best to deal with it when I add a PDM.
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      And finally, 2 problems I really need to sort.  Firstly as Matt said the auto trans is not happy as it gets hot - I couldn't log the temps but the gauge showed 90o. On the first day I took it out back in Feb, because the coolant was getting hot I never got to any auto trans issues; but on this day by late session 3 and then really clearly in 4 and 5 as it got hotter it just would not shift up. You can hear the issue really clearly at 12:55 and 16:20 on the vid. So the good news is, literally this week Ecutek finally released tuning for the jatco 7 speed. I'll have a chat to Racebox and see what they can do electrically to keep it cooler and to get the gears, if anything. That will likely take some R&D and can only really happen on track as it never gets even warm with road use. I've also picked up some eye wateringly expensive Redline D6 ATF to try, it had the highest viscosity I could find at 100o so we will see if that helps (just waiting for some oil pan gaskets so I can change it properly). If neither of those work I need to remove the coolant/trans interwarmer and the radiator cooler and go to an external cooler....somewhere.....(goodbye washer reservoir?), and if that fails give up on this mad idea and wait for Nissan to release the manual 400R
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      So, what else.... Power. I don't know what it is making because I haven't done a post tune dyno run yet; I will when I get a chance. It was 240rwkw dead stock. Conclusion from the day....it does not need a single kw more until I sort some other stuff. It comes on so hard that I could hear the twin N1 turbos on the R32 crying, and I just can't use what it has around a tight track with the current setup. Brakes. They are perfect. Hit them hard all day and they never felt like having an issue; you can see in the video we were making ground on much lighter cars on better tyres under brakes. They are standard (red sport) calipers, standard size discs in DBA5000 2 piece, Winmax pads and Motul RBF600 fluid, all from Matty at Racebrakes Sydney. Keeping in mind the car is more powerful than my R32 and weighs 1780, he clearly knows his shit. Suspension. This is one of the first areas I need to change. It has electronically controlled dampers from factory, but everything is just way too soft for track work even on the hardest setting (it is nice when hustling on country roads though). In particular it rolls into oversteer mid corner and pitches too much under hard braking so it becomes unstable eg in the turn 1 kink I need to brake early, turn through the kink then brake again so I don't pirouette like an AE86. I need to get some decent shocks with matched springs and sway bars ASAP, even if it is just a v1 setup until I work out a proper race/rally setup later. Tyres. I am running Yoko A052 in 235/45/18 all round, because that was what I could get in approximately the right height on wheels I had in the shed (Rays/Nismo 18x8 off the old Leaf actually!). As track tyres they are pretty poor; I note GTSBoy recently posted a porker comparo video including them where they were about the same as AD09.....that is nothing like a top line track tyre. I'll start getting that sorted but realistically I should get proper sized wheels first (likely 9.5 +38 front and 11 +55 at the rear, so a custom order, and I can't rotate them like the R32), then work out what the best tyre option is. BTW on that, Targa Tas had gone to road tyres instead of semi slicks now so that is a whole other world of choices to sort. Diff. This is the other thing that urgently needs to be addressed. It left massive 1s out of the fish hook all day, even when I was trying not too (you can also hear it reving on the video, and see the RPM rising too fast compared to speed in the data). It has an open diff that Infiniti optimistically called a B-LSD for "Brake Limited Slip Diff". It does good straight line standing start 11s but it is woeful on the track. Nismo seem to make a 2 way for it.
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      Also, I logged some data from the ECU for each session (mostly oil pressures and various temps, but also speed, revs etc, can't believe I forgot accelerator position). The Ecutek data loads nicely to datazap, I got good data from sessions 2, 3 and 4: https://datazap.me/u/duncanhandleyhgeconsultingcomau/250813-wakefield-session-2?log=0&data=7 https://datazap.me/u/duncanhandleyhgeconsultingcomau/250813-wakefield-session-3?log=0&data=6 https://datazap.me/u/duncanhandleyhgeconsultingcomau/250813-wakefield-session-4?log=0&data=6 Each session is cut into 3 files but loaded together, you can change between them in the top left. As the test sessions are mostly about the car, not me, I basically start by checking the oil pressure (good, or at least consistent all day). These have an electrically controlled oil pump which targets 25psi(!) at low load and 50 at high. I'm running a much thicker oil than recommended by nissan (they said 0w20, I'm running 10w40) so its a little higher. The main thing is that it doesn't drop too far, eg in the long left hand fish hook, or under brakes so I know I'm not getting oil surge. Good start. Then Oil and Coolant temp, plus intercooler and intake temps, like this: Keeping in mind ambient was about 5o at session 2, I'd say the oil temp is good. The coolant temp as OK but a big worry for hot days (it was getting to 110 back in Feb when it was 35o) so I need to keep addressing that. The water to air intercooler is working totally backwards where we get 5o air in the intake, squish/warm it in the turbos (unknown temp) then run it through the intercoolers which are say 65o max in this case, then the result is 20o air into the engine......the day was too atypical to draw a conclusion on that I think, in the united states of freedom they do a lot of upsizing the intercooler and heat exchanger cores to get those temps down but they were OK this time. The other interesting (but not concerning) part for me was the turbo speed vs boost graph: I circled an example from the main straight. With the tune boost peaks at around 18psi but it deliberately drops to about 14psi at redline because the turbos are tiny - they choke at high revs and just create more heat than power if you run them hard all the way. But you can also see the turbo speed at the same time; it raises from about 180,000rpm to 210,000rpm which the boost falls....imagine the turbine speed if they held 18psi to redline. The wastegates are electrically controlled so there is a heap of logic about boost target, actual boost, delta etc etc but it all seems to work well
×
×
  • Create New...