Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

If you do not have an exemption and driving on your Ps with a GTR. You're not covered.

As to vicroads, you are driving the car illegally. The insurance may allow you to drive it, but once you crash or claim something, they'll find every reason not to accept your claim.

I could insure a lambo under my name on red Ps and they'll still accept my payment. I signed to have the car covered as long as the car is been driven legally.

  • Replies 177
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

My insurer put an underwriting comment on my policy to state I am covered in the event of an at fault claim. So if it doesn't hold up in court then I guess Im screwed lol. But according to the legal team at the insurance company i work for, I should be fine.

And going back to the ball size lol, you can't compare a 3k vl to a 34gtr on p plates.

Yeah well "should be fine" is all good and well until it comes time to claim, best of luck for you if/when you do but don't take any chances that could end up in you having to claim. I think you're completely wrong in the ball size, if you're not covered and you hit a brand new BMW or Mercedes, who the **** cares if you're driving a 3 grand turbo or a 60 grand turbo, at the end of the day if you're denied you will still be paying $100k + out of your own pocket so it's got nothing to do with the cost of the turbo car you drive and in fact the brains of the driver who is illegally driving.

My insurer put an underwriting comment on my policy to state I am covered in the event of an at fault claim. So if it doesn't hold up in court then I guess Im screwed lol. But according to the legal team at the insurance company i work for, I should be fine.

And going back to the ball size lol, you can't compare a 3k vl to a 34gtr on p plates.

Sounds like you've done your homework, which is at least more than the average turbocharged driving P plater does. I'd want that underwriting to be very specific with regard to being on your P plates and driving high powered vehicles though, because unless you have an exemption it is of course being driven illegally.

And yes, OP, an R34 GT would be an ideal car for you...just don't spend too much on it, that's what I'm getting at. Because you WILL want a different car when you are off your P plates and you WILL wish you hadn't cashed up on your first car. Stereo, exhaust, wheels - fine...they are transferrable car to car. But don't do much more than that or you'll probably be sorry later on!

maza 1993, buy a nice clean p plate legal car for he road on your p's, and use the rest to finance a track car. On the track you can drive anything on your p's and thrash it as much as you want in a safe environment. Assuming the reason you want a turbo is to accelerate quickly and have some fun.

The best first car is a shot box. Too many times do I drive around seeing a *cough* young hotty in mummies BMW/merc and I just cringe to think how much it would be to repair one of those when and I repeat when a p plater has an accident.

I had a barina as my first car and nicked a lot of things and the beauty of it was when I locked the keys in it I pried the door open and got them back haha. Not many cars will let you do that.

Get a shit box until you know how to drive!

The best first car is a shot box. Too many times do I drive around seeing a *cough* young hotty in mummies BMW/merc and I just cringe to think how much it would be to repair one of those when and I repeat when a p plater has an accident.

I had a barina as my first car and nicked a lot of things and the beauty of it was when I locked the keys in it I pried the door open and got them back haha. Not many cars will let you do that.

Get a shit box until you know how to drive!

My parents actually want me to get a BMW, and I'm actually a pretty good driver which is why my parents want me to get one.

Yea, I love to speed and shit, but I know when to do it.

I want a nice first car haha :P

My parents actually want me to get a BMW, and I'm actually a pretty good driver which is why my parents want me to get one.

Yea, I love to speed and shit, but I know when to do it.

I want a nice first car haha :P

Thats cool man. Just remember that shit happens, and the learning curve can be quite steep sometimes when youre driving unaccompanied/tired/frustrated, these things add to learning how to drive in different emotional states or the weather conditions.

Hate how everyone assumes it's mummy/daddys cr suppose they just never worked hard I had good cars young paid every cent

thumbsup.gif right on bro. How much was youre first car? What job did you have to earn that car? Did you pay it outright?

And if youre trying to tell me that those little princesses I see in the 2010 2011 BMW 123's 320's on their red p's bought that car themself then I find that very very hard to believe.

Very hard rofl.gif

I had a 33 when they where 20k+ stock as which I did up, then a 40k accord euro which I did up and I moved onto my Lexus and I also have my current 33 for a hobby cars aren't expensive especially if your living at home

Ive been on 6 figures since 20

Yeh plenty of jobs. Not many offering a job to a 20 year old with I dont know what qualification for a 6 figure salary.

A bit fishy.

Good luck with youre search OP. All in all, Id get a cheap car. But seeing as youre parents are funding you, well then I cant relate because I wasnt so lucky.

Your loss mate look outside the square plenty of people doing it

The whole Aussie philosophy is backwards give our worst least experienced drivers the most unsafe crappest car if I had kids I'd buy em the best I could afford with safety features

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Thanks for that, I'll check it all out. I can always do the brakes last anyway if its a problem.  The 16's are super cool, if they do fit I'll cruise around with them for a bit.  
    • Well, that's kinda the point. The calipers might interfere with the inside of the barrels 16" rims are only about 14" inside the barrels, which is ~350mm, and 334mm rotors only leave about 8mm outboard for the caliper before you get to 350, And.... that;s not gunna be enough. If the rims have a larger ID than that, you might sneak it in. I'd be putting a measuring stick inside the wheel and eyeballing the extra required for the caliper outboard of the rotor before committing to bolting it all on.
    • OK, so again it has been a bit of a break but it was around researching what had been done since I didn't have access to Neil's records and not everything is obvious without pulling stuff apart. Happily the guy who assembled the engine had kept reasonable records, so we now know the final spec is: Bottom end: Standard block and crank Ross 86.5mm forgies, 9:1 compression Spool forged rods Standard main bolts Oil pump Spool billet gears in standard housing Aeroflow extended and baffled sump Head Freshly rebuilt standard head with new 80lb valve springs Mild porting/port match Head oil feed restrictor VCT disabled Tighe 805C reground cams (255 duration, 8.93 lift)  Adjustable cam gears on inlet/exhaust Standard head bolts, gasket not confirmed but assumed MLS External 555cc Nismo injectors Z32 AFM Bosch 023 Intank fuel pump Garret 2871 (factory housings and manifold) Hypertune FFP plenum with standard throttle   Time to book in a trip to Unigroup
    • I forgot about my shiny new plates!
    • Well, apparently they do fit, however this wont be a problem if not because the car will be stationary while i do the suspension work. I was just going to use the 16's to roll the old girl around if I needed to. I just need to get the E90 back on the road first. Yes! I'm a believer! 🙌 So, I contacted them because the site kinda sucks and I was really confused about what I'd need. They put together a package for me and because I was spraying all the seat surfaces and not doing spot fixes I decided not to send them a headrest to colour match, I just used their colour on file (and it was spot on).  I got some heavy duty cleaner, 1L of colour, a small bottle of dye hardener and a small bottle of the dye top coat. I also got a spray gun as I needed a larger nozzle than the gun I had and it was only $40 extra. From memory the total was ~$450 ish. Its not cheap but the result is awesome. They did add repair bits and pieces to the quote originally and the cost came down significantly when I said I didn't need any repair products. I did it over a weekend. The only issues I had were my own; I forgot to mix the hardener into the dye two coats but I had enough dye for 2 more coats with the hardener. I also just used up all the dye because why not and i rushed the last coat which gave me some runs. Thankfully the runs are under the headrests. The gun pattern wasn't great, very round and would have been better if it was a line. It made it a little tricky to get consistent coverage and I think having done the extra coats probably helped conceal any coverage issues. I contacted them again a few months later so I could get our X5 done (who the f**k thought white leather was a good idea for a family car?!) and they said they had some training to do in Sydney and I could get a reduced rate on the leather fix in the X5 if I let them demo their product on our car. So I agreed. When I took Bec in the E39 to pick it up, I showed them the job I'd done in my car and they were all (students included) really impressed. Note that they said the runs I created could be fixed easily at the time with a brush or an air compressor gun. So, now with the two cars done I can absolutely recommend Colourlock.  I'll take pics of both interiors and create a new thread.
×
×
  • Create New...