Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys n girls

My girlfriend has a m35 coming up to it's 100,000 km service,

What does it consist of and also who in Adelaide would it be good to take too??

Second question is,

When putting the car in reverse the car seems to shutter , it get worse when u turn while reversing , and also happens when in drive and slow speed but will go away once on load( 50kmh +)

Feels like the shuttering comes from

The rear but not 100%

Has anyone heard of this or had it, or know what it could be?

Thanks in advance :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/378262-few-m35-questions/
Share on other sites

100K service is nothing major on the VQ25DET motor as it has a timing chain that does not need replacing.

Depending what has been done since you owned it the things you could look at are.

Oil & Filter change

Radiator fluid

Gearbox fluid (but not essential)

Diff fluids (but not essential)

Check brake pads & fluid

Grease hinges

The shudder in reverse is common as you have to remember you have a 4WD system and they don't like being put on full lock in reverse. This can be made worse by having the "Syncro" button depressed.

Maybe the gearbox fluid change would be good to do.

Cheers

Andy

Awesome thanks guys,

Yeah there's a fwd light on the dash altho, it has never come on , but when we first looked at the car and test drive it, it was on, hmmm

What does the light mean???

If the AWD light is light on the dash it means the ATTESSA AWD system is faulty.

I get that intermittently...but I wonder if its because my ECU was falling out >_<

Will check that tomorrow and go from there , really hope there's nothing wrong with it as I know they are very costly

Not necessarily... could be anything from needing to be bled to the relay being faulty.

Why not bleed the system and go from there?

Yeah that's my plan, see if this lights on there, if not see if there's a globe and findthe last owner for a chat , then bleed it ,

Is this the correct way of bleeding it ?

http://www.skylinesa...leeding-how-to/

More or less, the white plug that you need to unplug is located on the ODB2 cable under the drivers side dash, you should see a small hatch with the plug attached, pull the cable through and you will see a plug, just unplug it and turn the car on to reds and you will hear the pump start to turn. Make sure you open the bleed nipple on the back of the transfer case a fair bit to get the fluid moving. IT WILL MAKE A MESS so be prepared as it will go through a fair bit. Having 3 people there will help the job along, one person at the nipple, one at the rear topping up fluid and the other turning the car on and off. I use Matic D in the atessa.

Also the nipple at the motor end seems more like a drain nipple as it is gravity only and does not require the pump to operate in order for fluid to come out.

Mike.

the nipple at the transfer case is under pressure when the pump is running. even when the pump is stopped.

hydraulic systems push bubbles to the furthest point (generally), so the bleed nipple at the motor end is the one you probably need to bleed

Ok just had a little look at the car,

The 4wd / awd light does not come on when ignition is switched on, Does anyones????

I found were to fill up with fluid and it is above the Max line :)

I then checked the plug under the dash and check to see if It was connected , can hear the pump working :)

Will attempt bleeding the system on weekend and see if that makes any difference ,

Ok just had a little look at the car,

The 4wd / awd light does not come on when ignition is switched on, Does anyones????

I found were to fill up with fluid and it is above the Max line :)

I then checked the plug under the dash and check to see if It was connected , can hear the pump working :)

Will attempt bleeding the system on weekend and see if that makes any difference

Pretty sure mine lights up when the ignition is in the on position.

Ours doesn't line up when the sync switch is on snow or sync,

Are we talking about the little pic off the 4 wheels or the word "4wd"?

Yes, although I may be mistaken with what I said before. :blush:

Will test it out tonight after work.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Can I suggest you try EBC directly again and link them to as many competitor catalogues as you can to show their listing is incorrect, eg https://dba.com.au/product/front-4000-series-hd-brake-rotor-dba42304/ If you have access to an R33 GTST VIN and your VIN, you could also use a Nissan Parts lookup like Amayama to show them the part number is different between 33 GTST and 34 GTT which may get their attention
    • So i got reply from EBC and they just this site where you can clearly see those 296mm fronts on R34 GTT. I send them photos and "quotes" that 296mm are not for 34 GTT and they are too small. But it will be very hard to return them cuz nobody here knows 100% and they just copy those EBC catalogue :-D https://ebcbrakesdirect.com/automotive/nissan/skyline-r34
    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
×
×
  • Create New...