Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys. Here's the latest offering from QStarz, the LT-Q6000 Colour Lap Timer

We'll have stock in a few weeks. Fully integrated 10Hz lap timer and Data Logger with colour LCD display in real time and built in 3 axis accelerometer. 2GB storage memory.

$449 More info HERE

Also, the Qstarz BT-Q1000eX Lap timer has now been upgraded from 5Hz to 10 Hz More info HERE

q6000.jpg2.jpg?w=300&h=133

Here's a little video recorded on our new RadCam using the Qstarz and Dashware software

I went for a RaceChrono Pro unit from http://racechrono.com.au/

I'm happy to show anyone what this thing is capable of if you're considering buying one :D

This looks awesome. Can use it for the bike as well, and easy to read screen at a good price. Even has all the australian tracks already programmed or ready to download.

Any negatives?

Looks like this will be my christmas present to myself.

This looks awesome. Can use it for the bike as well, and easy to read screen at a good price. Even has all the australian tracks already programmed or ready to download.

Any negatives?

Looks like this will be my christmas present to myself.

The new Qstarz LT Q6000 is probably better suited to motorcycles as it's completely self contained single box and requires no wiring or fitting. It just has a simple mount for attachment to handlebars.

This looks awesome. Can use it for the bike as well, and easy to read screen at a good price. Even has all the australian tracks already programmed or ready to download.

Any negatives?

Looks like this will be my christmas present to myself.

Heya a20089 :)

I'm pretty impressed with it thus far!

It does everything I need and a few extra cool things to boot.

My only possible negative is that I keep forgetting where some of the options are within the menus. Not general stuff like starting a new session, but things like adding a split marker etc I find them eventually, but to be fair, I've only done it a few times and am still learning my way around the menus. A few more runs and I'm sure I'll have it down pat, but it isn't 'iPhone intuitive', but then what is?!

I recommend having a look at these if you're in the market for a lap timer, ESPECIALLY if it's to be used on a streetable car/bike ;) The timing options are plain dangerous to your licence whistling.gif

Mark :)

  • 4 weeks later...

If you guys have a Android phone and are after a fairly accurate and cheap way of measuring lap times then download the app called "Trackmaster"

It's really useful, can add in sector times etc and export all the data to excel for graphing and comparisons. I found it to be within 0.1sec of official lap times even using the internal 1hz GPS of my Samsung mobile.

As others have said 1hz GPS updating does suck a bit, I'm looking for a cheap bluetooth GPS at 5hz but they all seem to be a few hundred each?!? So I'm very happy with my well spent $10 so far :)

Edited by SimonR32
  • 4 weeks later...

I use the GPS set up MoTeC developed for the SDL (dash logger).

You key into to the dash manager on your lappy the way points of the start/finish line of the track you're at and any splits you want.

The times, splits and laps are logged and also displayed (depending on how you want it displayed) on the SDL... so too are predictive times.

http://www.motec.com/gpsg1/gpsg1overview/

Cheap too at under $400 (from memory)... you just need to spend $15k on the MoTeC setup first!!

  • 3 weeks later...

I just upgraded my RaceTechnology dash to a 20Hz GPS... Now I just need to get to a track and test it...

The first test car we ran it in had a self ejecting cigarette lighter and the memory cards were in the wrong file format.

  • 2 months later...

I have been thinking about this myself recently- thinking of buying one of these and testing it out;

http://www.ebay.com....=item3a64068682

For that price, if it doesn't work - who cares!

I bought the latest version with the remote pickup

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Bestlap-lap-timer-infrared-ultrared-racing-track-day-V2-/200753923595?pt=Race_Car_Parts&hash=item2ebdddc60b&vxp=mtr

It works fine - lap times to two decimal places and stores each lap time for recall - no other features but fine for $60

It also works with the more expensive beacons so if any one else has a beacon at the track you can run off that instead if you want.

Third, same. Looks like a really good unit too!

There's a new firmware update out for the LTQ6000 that now allows you to use it as a rally trip meter. Used it at Targa nd it worked brilliantly. It logs and records all your stage times etc and you chancheck out speeds, track map etc.

qsrally3.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So it's a ginormous undertaking that will be a massive headache but will be sorta cool if pulled off right. And also expensive. I'm sure it'll be as expensive as buying the car itself. I don't think you could just do this build without upgrading other things to take the extra power. Probably lots of custom stuff as well. All this assuming the person has mechanical knowledge. I'm stupid enough to try it but smart enough to realize there's gonna be mistakes even with an experienced mechanic. I'm a young bloke on minimum wage that gets dopamine from air being moved around and got his knowledge from a Donut video on how engines work.]   Thanks for the response though super informative!
    • Yes, it is entirely possible to twincharge a Skyline. It is not....without problems though. There was a guy did it to an SOHC RB30 (and I think maybe it became or already was a 25/30) in a VL Commode. It was a monster. The idea is that you can run both compressors at relatively low pressure ratios, yet still end up with a quite large total pressure ratio because they multiply, not add, boost levels. So, if the blower is spun to give a 1.4:1 PR (ie, it would make ~40 kPa of boost on its own) and the turbo is set up to give a 1.4:1 PR also, then you don't get 40+40 = 80 kPa of boost, you get 1.4*1.4, which is pretty close to 100 kPa of boost. It's free real estate! This only gets better as the PRs increase. If both are set up to yield about 1.7 PR, which is only about 70 kPa or 10ish psi of boost each, you actually end up with about 1.9 bar of boost! So, inevitably it was a bit of a monster. The blower is set up as the 2nd compressor, closest to the motor, because it is a positive displacement unit, so to get the benefit of putting it in series with another compressor, it has to go second. If you put it first, it has to be bigger, because it will be breathing air at atmospheric pressure. The turbo's compressor ends up needing to be a lot larger than you'd expect, and optimised to be efficient at large mass flows and low PRs. The turbo's exhaust side needs to be quite relaxed, because it's not trying to provide the power to produce all the boost, and it has to handle ALL the exhaust flow. I think you need a much bigger wastegate than you might expect. Certainly bigger than for an engine just making the same power level turbo only. The blower effectively multiplies the base engine size. So if you put a 1.7 PR blower on a 2.5L Skyline, it's like turboing a 4.2L engine. Easy to make massive power. Plus, because the engine is blown, the blower makes boost before the turbo can even think about making boost, so it's like having that 4.2L engine all the way from idle. Fattens the torque delivery up massively. But, there are downsides. The first is trying to work out how to size the turbo according to the above. The second is that you pretty much have to give up on aircon. There's not enough space to mount everything you need. You might be able to go elec power steering pump, hidden away somewhere. but it would still be a struggle to get both the AC and the blower on the same side of the engine. Then, you have to ponder whether you want to truly intercool the thing. Ideally you would put a cooler between the turbo and the blower, so as to drop the heat out of it and gain even more benefit from the blower's positive displacement nature. But that would really need to be a water to air core, because you're never going to find enough room to run 2 sets of boost pipes out to air to air cores in the front of the car. But you still need to aftercool after the blower, because both these compressors will add a lot of heat, and you wil have the same temperature (more or less) as if you produced all that boost with a single stage, and no one in their right mind would try to run a petrol engine on high boost without a cooler (unless not using petrol, which we shall ignore for the moment). I'm of the opinnion that 2x water to air cores in the bay and 2x HXs out the front is probably the only sensible way to avoid wasting a lot of room trying to fit in long runs of boost pipe. But the struggle to locate everything in the limited space available would still be a pretty bad optimisation problem. If it was an OEM, they'd throw 20 engineers at it for a year and let them test out 30 ideas before deciding on the best layout. And they'd have the freedom to develop bespoke castings and the like, for manifolds, housings, connecting pipes to/from compressors and cores. A single person in a garage can either have one shot at it and live with the result, or spend 5 years trying to get it right.
    • Good to know, thank you!
    • It's a place for non car talk. There's whoretown which is general shit talking. But also other threads coving all sorts of stuff(a lot still semi car related)
    • Looked it up. It sounds so expensive lmao I'd rather not. Awwwww but I just love that sound
×
×
  • Create New...