Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

came across this great comparo of ethanol vs petrol

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=x2BXuI52fOI

my local united is now stocking e85, so ill be keen to compare the ethanol content of united vs caltex with my zeitronix

Edited by domino_z

my sensor was reading E80 but there was still maybe 10-15litres of E70 Eflex in there - so it looks just like the old United E85 ie generally on the higher side of E85, like Martin said.

all the eflex should be out of the system now, so i'll fill again with United and see where it's at. Let you guys know :)

interestingly though, for the last 5-6 months, Caltex has been bang on E70, never moved when i checked. I wonder why United doesn't control the % as much?

  • 1 month later...

onto second full tank now, sensor flicking between E84 and E85, sensor was reading E83 on the way to the station - looks like it's not varying wildly like last time united was around :)

yep united e85 is the way to go - which store are you getting yours from daniel?

couple more updates. swapped my bootlid over to one with a third brake light, and had it ordered with a matte finish which i left unpainted on the under side

if anyone is interested in my old bootlid, shoot me a pm

boot_07.jpg

boot_08.jpg

also got my top racing dry cf mirrors back after getting painted - need to work out how to pop the glass out so i can unscrew the motor

mirror_01.jpg

mirror_02.jpg

love the bootlid, the subtle spoiler kick is really nice - i wanted to do something like that for my old GT-T but never got around to finishing it.

thought about leaving the mirrors dry cf to show off the quality?

I got my United from what i think is technically Braeside, not sure if that's how it's listed on their website, but i think that's the suburb. Near boundary rd/lower dandy rd intersection. It's closer than my closest Eflex too (springvale) so it works out well. Now if Fueltown just got back up and running, i'd only have one a few mins away :D

local to me was brunswick living in the cbd, but they've scraped it now

i have to drive out to balwyn, which is around 8km, not too bad, gets me out of the house on a boring week night. But i also have caltex in hawthorn and footscray which is a bit closer

re mirrors, i prefer subtle exposed matte cf. not painting the insides is a nice detail when using the mirrors from inside the car

Edited by domino_z
  • 4 weeks later...

guys united is going all out and ramping up the servo's now offering e85 in melb

united kingsway (next to merc) is the latest, perfect for me living in the cbd

http://www.unitedpet...cator/fuels/E85

Edited by domino_z

think it's time for me to take the next step

not really interested in a drag car so ruling out big turbos. what ideally im after is stock turbo like spool below 3000rpm for the daily drive duties, and abiltity to carry more boost towards redline for better in-gear acceleration

starting to do my research now on engine internals and turbos, though willall's spec v style porting seems to be the way to go - anyone here done the willall turbo mod?

gtr-vs-specv-turbos-01.jpg

Edited by domino_z
  • 1 month later...

domino - did you ever get around to looking at upgraded turbo's?

I'm curious to know from your investigations if running this upgrade on E85 can still get away with 1000cc injectors?

We are supposed to tune my car later this week on E85 for the first time but I only have ID1000's and am not sure with the extra supporting mods if they will be big enough now.

Martin would best advise whether my injectors are currently max'd (or close to it) on stock turbos - i doubt it though, keep in mind HKS went all the way to 800+hp with their 860cc injectors

I'm still on the fence with turbos - problem i'm having atm is traction, and i can't use all the power i have on my 21" street tyres. 2nd gear is pretty much useless in this cold weather, and 3rd through midrange will cause the car to snap out well past triple digits. I'm considering swapping out my yoko advans for ps2's but i really dont think that will help much

I'm convinced on the benefits of SD tuning vs MAF, so will be having Martin tune for SD at the least

Edited by domino_z

Yeah we are also switching to SD. I tried the upgraded AMS AFM's and they were an epic fail so will go with SD tuning moving forwards.

And I guess we'll just have to try the ID1000's and see.

you'll need pumps too, but im sure you've already upgraded those

is racepace looking after your car in Vic? i may be confusing with another member, but is yours the jdm black gtr with spec v turbos?

Edited by domino_z

Yeah Racepace are doing the car and yes its the black JDM with Spec V turbo's, pumps, cooler, pipes etc.

The car was making 440awkws on 98 with a MAF tune (stock MAF's maxed out in places with-in the tune range but the AMS ones caused a massive back-fire on lift-off and unfortunately I had the crash at Mt Baw Baw rally before we've had a chance to look at it again. Only got the car back last week).

So quite interested to see how it goes on E85 + SD this week. Going to PI this weekend for the real test.

Yeah Racepace are doing the car and yes its the black JDM with Spec V turbo's, pumps, cooler, pipes etc.

The car was making 440awkws on 98 with a MAF tune (stock MAF's maxed out in places with-in the tune range but the AMS ones caused a massive back-fire on lift-off and unfortunately I had the crash at Mt Baw Baw rally before we've had a chance to look at it again. Only got the car back last week).

So quite interested to see how it goes on E85 + SD this week. Going to PI this weekend for the real test.

Hey Snowy,

I have an SD tune in mine at the moment with the 3inch intakes and am getting a huge backfire on acceleration on 98 as well. Going back to the MAF tune until I can get the MAF delete loom here. Then back to the SD tune and see what happens.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So I mentioned the apprentice, @LachyK helped take the bonnet off. We just undid the nuts on the hinges and unclipped the gas struts, then pulled the bonnet back a little as the front was catching on the front bar.  I had a good look at everything today and have removed the rams, repaired/reset the hinges and bolted it back together like it never happened. I'll do a separate write up on the repair, and I also removed the poppers from the Fuga today too to save grief down the road.....as said above it is at least $5k to repair retail. I'm also happier about my ability to prepare a race car, and less happy about Nis-nault's engineering (I can hear @GTSBoy sAfrican Americaning) because the top hose of the radiator didn't slip off.......it snapped clean off. By practice I put the hose clamp hard up against the flare on a neck to make it least likely to ever move (thanks @Neil!). I guess that puts a little more pressure on the end of the pipe as it is further away from the rad, but still, that is pretty shit. I've put it back on for now as there was a fair bit of neck still there, but obviously there is no lip on the neck any more so I don't think I'll track it again until I have a new rad. Speaking of which....more research required. It looks like Koyo makes a standard size radiator in ally which I'll grab in the meantime, but I really want something thicker so might have to go custom in the medium term (ouch) Coolant still needs a refill and I have the pressure tester on it over night, but other than a wash down of the engine bay it seems alright. And @MBS206 noted something noisy on the front of the engine and I think I agree....time for a new accessory belt and tensioners I think.
    • our good friends at nismo make a diff for it, I have one (and a spare housing to put the centre in) on the way. https://www.nismo.co.jp/products/web_catalogue/lsd/mechanical_lsd_v37.html AMS also make a helical one, but I prefer mechanical for track use in 2wd (I do run a quaife in the front, but not rear of the R32)
    • What are we supposed to be seeing in the photo of the steering angle sensor? The outer housing doesn't turn, right? All the action is on the inside. The real test here is whether or not your car has had the steering put back together by a butcher. When the steering is centred (and we're not caring about the wheel too much here, we're talking about the front wheels, parallel, facing front) then you should have an absolutely even number of turns from centre to left lock and centre to right lock. If there is any difference at all then perhaps the thing has been put back together wrongly, either the steering wheel put on one spline (or more!) off, and the alignment bodged to straighteb the wheel, or the opposite where something silly was done underneath and the wheel put back on crooked to compensate. Nut there isn't actually much evidence that you have such a problem anyway. It is something you can easily measure and test for to find out though. My money is still on the HICAS CU not driving the PS solenoid with the proper PWM signal required to lighten the load at lower speed. If it were me, I would be putting either a multimeter or oscilloscope onto the solenoid terminals and taking it for a drive, looking for the voltage to change. The PWM signal is 0v, 12V, 0V, 12v with ...obviously...modulated pulse width. You should see that as an average voltage somewhere between 0V and 12V, and it should vary with speed. An handheld oscilloscope would be the better tool for this, because they are definitely good enough but there's no telling if any cheap shit multimeter that people have lying around are good enough. You can also directly interfere with the solenoid. If you wire up a little voltage divider with variable resistor on it, and hook the PS solenoid direct to 12V through that, you can manually adjust the voltage to the solenoid and you should be able to make it go ligheter and heavier. If you cannot, then the problem is either the solenoid itself dead, or your description of the steering being "tight" (which I have just been assuming you mean "heavy") could be that you have a mechanical problem in the steering and there is heaps of resistance to movement.
    • Little update  I have shimmed the solenoid on the rack today following Keep it Reets video on YouTube. However my steering is still tight. I have this showing on Nisscan, my steering angle sensor was the closest to 0 degrees (I could get it to 0 degrees by small little tweaks, but the angle was way off centre? I can't figure this out for the life of me. I get no faults through Nisscan. 
    • The BES920 is like the Toyota Camrys of coffee machines. E61 group head is cool, however the time requirements for home use makes it less desirable. The Toyota Camry coffee machine runs twin boilers and also PID temp control, some say it produces coffees as good as an E61 group head machine.
×
×
  • Create New...