Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Thanks guys, very happy with the car as its only mods are Catback Exhaust, Pod filter, Underdrive pulley & a brass button clutch. Will be back for another run when i get some good tyres :)

nemz.jpg

that's a pretty shocking 60' time. some decent tyres will drastically drop that time. brass button clutch probably doesn't help if it bites hard (promotes wheelspin off the line). get the 60' time down to around 2 seconds and you should be running flat 14's.

good time mate! very impressive :)

I still need to try going to a drag strip but as nikk_666 said .. scared the time will be fail. i dont mind anything around 15 though that seems reasonable ... but since itll be my first time at drags im expecting to fail miserably :P

the fun of drag racing isnt in what time you, but the road to getting quicker.

eg my 1st run in the 33 was 19 secs because I blazed the tyres off it in 3rd.

Just get out there for a night, first few runs are generally crap and you will get better.

then once the car (not the driver) cant go any quicker start changing a few things to try and get quicker and more consistnt

Yeah I hope to pop down on the next drag night for some fun, ive been to a few skidpans and had fun with those, the instructor in the car always said i was a bit lightfooted and i could have gone much harder laugh.gif im still learning though so i figured it would be best to go slow and whats well within my control

just didnt wanna embarass the other skyline owners down there on the night with my crappy time laugh.gif

not gna bother modding the n/a skyline past what ive done really, which is good tyres, exhaust and high flow panel filter ...

will prob work on suspension/brakes after but yeah

not gna bother modding the n/a skyline past what ive done really, which is good tyres, exhaust and high flow panel filter ...

will prob work on suspension/brakes after but yeah

yeah fair enough, I still say give it a rip

Go down and have some fun mate, it gets very addictive. Drop your tyre pressures down to 23psi or so, drop the clutch at 4000rpm and let her rip :)

it would appear im noobier than i thought .. i always increased my tyre pressure before going on any skidpans .. why decrease tyre pressure?

thanks for the advice though, i actually have no clue how to do a "racing start" LOL im a granny spec driver ... fml how embarassing to say this on a skyline forum!

ill head down to the drags this coming wed or next for sum lols and post up my times for you guys ... if their <18 seconds .... nothing over, that would just be embarassing to post on a public forum. in fact 18s probably embarassing as well :P

only drop your rear tyre pressure though. pump your front ones right up (unless it's a gts4). letting the fronts down will slow you down.

also, unless you have very good tyres, you are better off slipping the clutch off the line. if you have a heavy duty clutch and dump it it will just fry the tyres. this is why, even in a mildly modded turbo, you will do better times with a healthy stock clutch than a heavy duty clutch. same goes for suspension. stock is better than stiff coil overs

im confused as to whether slipping or dropping is better, i googled it and it seems to be a mixed opinion

some say dropping wear out gearbox

some say slipping wear out clutch

both are true. but when it comes to getting the car off the line cleanly slipping the clutch is better. why do you think f1 cars run a dual stage clutch system?

when we talk about slipping the clutch we basically mean taking off normally, but faster, not riding the clutch like a learner driver. for rwd cars you are best off stalling it up on the handbrake. so handbrake on, build revs, let the clutch up to friction point so the rear end starts to squat a bit. when the light goes green drop the handbrake and let the clutch up.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ok so after much research and talking with knowledgeable people I've got my turbo conversion done and it's all running great other than 1 small issue.  Car has remained auto with the na auto and tcm, I've used a stagea ecu with. NIstune board and everything is great other than my gear selection on the dash. It illuminates park, reverse, neutral, 3rd and 2nd. But nothing drive or what gear your in when you pop it into tiptronic.  I'm sure there is may e 1 wire in the ecu plug I need to move to rectify this. Dose anyone here have any ideas?   Cheers guys
    • Sorry I haven't been following all the detail, so you may have tried this. Does it idle with the tiniest bit of throttle you can add? You've mentioned the IACV, does it have an AAC valve and have you adjusted it at all (ie, screw the idle adjust screw all the way in, then back it out a couple of turns until idle is stable)?
    • My bad, I unplugged the one underlined in red instead of yellow before. With the car started, after unplugging the IACV (the one underlined in yellow), it idled at around 400/500 for 3 seconds before stalling. Attempting to start the car without the IACV will not start the car.   It does stutter and sputter for around 5 seconds before dying. However, immediately after starting it, you can already hear some slight sputters from the exhaust.   It won't start with the AFM unplugged. If it is when the car has already started, it stalls in a few seconds.   Yesterday, I did take some logs using Nistune of 3 scenarios. Car idling till it stalls Car idling and unplugging the IACV Car idling and removing the AFM I also have some previous logs of when the Car is idling till it stalls and when driving and it cuts. I am not really knowledgeable enough to understand what to look for. After every test, car idles rougher and rougher, until I have to stop. It will be fine the day after.
    • There is no difference between a 17x8 and an 18x8. The total diameter of the tyre needs to remain +/- the same (so you don't mess up the gearing, speedo reading, and clearance when turning front wheels..... so you just need to use a lower profile tyre on th 18 than you do on the 17. /rocket surgery.
    • I thought the same to start with. But then I thought it was one of those LCAs where the end of the ARB goes through a bushing in the LCA itself, instead of having an end link.
×
×
  • Create New...