Jump to content
SAU Community

Aftermarket Ecu Time For My R33 Rb25Det

HYBRID VL

By HYBRID VL,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

HYBRID VL Community Regular

HYBRID VL

Posted
Posted

Ok been looking at getting aan ECU in the next few months for my GTS25T been really looking hard at the Adaptronic range what do you guys think?

I want to get rid of the AFM i would have had a Power FC JETRO but heard they are hard to come by these days.

I also dont want to get a Microtech as i had a VLT calais with RB25 head and all the microtech did was make my can run rich and everyone i knew who has had a microtech cars run rich as a jew so i aint going to bother with microtech.

My brother has a EMS Stinger in his AE86 4AGE BlackTop 20v he has had problems with MAPS not saving so im trying to steer way from them aswell.

I have been told good things about nissan tune boards and stuff but i rather go full ECU.

Checkbuzz Rising Star

Checkbuzz

Posted
Posted

Nistune is OK but not for R33's as they only use either a modified Z32 or R32 ECU (not an R33 ECU) both of which entail work arounds, compromises and possible issues.

I would definately recommend going for the full replacment ECU.

FWIW I just got my PFC fitted and tuned ($1100 2nd hand incl hand controller ) and the car has never run better... very, very happy with it!

It's a proven low cost option that everybody knows how to tune; you can even have a play yourself via the hand controller!

However the PFC is getting a bit long in the tooth and some of these more modern ECU's have alot more flexibility and features...

Happy hunting!

Ok been looking at getting aan ECU in the next few months for my GTS25T been really looking hard at the Adaptronic range what do you guys think?

I want to get rid of the AFM i would have had a Power FC JETRO but heard they are hard to come by these days.

I also dont want to get a Microtech as i had a VLT calais with RB25 head and all the microtech did was make my can run rich and everyone i knew who has had a microtech cars run rich as a jew so i aint going to bother with microtech.

My brother has a EMS Stinger in his AE86 4AGE BlackTop 20v he has had problems with MAPS not saving so im trying to steer way from them aswell.

I have been told good things about nissan tune boards and stuff but i rather go full ECU.

BrynDETT Community Regular

BrynDETT

Posted
Posted

wouldn't the over fueling problems with the microtechs be more to do with with tunes and not the ecu?

not being a fanboy, all i know is mine runs fine, not overly rich, no cold start issues......

chocco Collaborator

chocco

Posted
Posted

Nistune is OK but not for R33's as they only use either a modified Z32 or R32 ECU (not an R33 ECU) both of which entail work arounds, compromises and possible issues.

I would definately recommend going for the full replacment ECU.

Why arnt they for r33's? Wat are you compromising? Possible issues?

My later series z32 ecu and nistune work fine and do wat its spose to do?

Not sure wat your getting at here but wouldnt it be more of the question as to wat

features are needed to help narrow down the selection on ecu?

DVS JEZ Grand Master

DVS JEZ

Posted
Posted

Exactly. Nistune and RB20 ecu is plug ad play minus VTC, but can either use a $60 winfow switch or just no VTC.

Or a recent results have shown, if u have the VTC on the whole time(hardwired) u may lose 10kw up top but thats it

Checkbuzz Rising Star

Checkbuzz

Posted
Posted

I'm no expert, all I know is this:

I recently had 2 well very respected tuners in Melbourne refuse to tune my Z32 Nistune ECU in my R33 because of on going problems with this Nistune solution.

These problems clearly do not affect eveybody but there must be a enough of a percentage out there with unresolvable issues that these guys no longer want to touch them.

I know one of the issues was around the difference in knock sensors between the Z32 and R33 causing wierd results.

Another was an issue that Nistune had acknowledged and were working on resolving.

I know there are many happy Nistune users out there (fark I did my homework and purchased one!) but I also respect what these tuners have to say.

So what I'm getting at is addressing this line in the original post: "I have been told good things about nissan tune boards and stuff but i rather go full ECU."

Why arnt they for r33's? Wat are you compromising? Possible issues?

My later series z32 ecu and nistune work fine and do wat its spose to do?

Not sure wat your getting at here but wouldnt it be more of the question as to wat

features are needed to help narrow down the selection on ecu?

HYBRID VL Community Regular

HYBRID VL

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Well my VLT was tuned By Tony Rigoli so i dont think tune was a prob as he has a pretty good rep.

haltech was a brand i know very little about and i also talked to a few people today and they said Autronic another said Wolf 3D (which i havnet heard of for years)and yer thats nisstune thing i asked about it apperntly i have to use a R32ECU AFM z32 TPS and CAS aswell thats what i was told correct me if this info is wrong.

i was also told i can have a full ECU in there and but also use my Factory ECU aswell???

Yews the E1280 is what i was looking at..

Vipec i have never heard of some info would be great.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      $5 Clock upgrade for R32 GTR

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      The attached document is fine. I just downloaded & opened it.
    • ToothDR32
      $5 Clock upgrade for R32 GTR

      By ToothDR32 · Posted

      Hello, sorry for being late to join the discussion, but my clock just died on me.   Ive tried to look at Michaels digital clock repair.docx and it doesnt work maybe the file has expired.   Please let me know if you can re upload it or take some youtube videos to show us how to get the clock installed? thanks
    • MissMintyR33
      R33 persistent issues. P/steering and lag/misfire

      By MissMintyR33 · Posted

      I thought that might be the case, thats what I'll start saving for. Thanks for the info 
    • jtha7
      Strange issue RB25DET wont start

      By jtha7 · Posted

      Ps i found the below forum and it seems to be the same scenario Im dealing with. Going to check my ECU coolant temp wire tomorrow    From NICOclub forum: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Thu Apr 11, 2013 7:23 am I am completely lost on this. Car ran perfectly fine when I parked it at the end of the year. I took the engine out and painted the engine bay, and put a fuel cell with an inline walbro 255 instead of the in tank unit I had last year. After reinstalling everything, the engine floods when the fuel pump primes. if i pull the fuel pump fuse it'll start, and as soon as I put the fuse back in it starts running ridiculously rich. I checked the tps voltage, and its fine. Cleaned the maf as it had some dust from sitting on a shelf all winter, fuel pressure is correct while running, but wont fire until there is less than 5psi in the lines. The fuel lines are run correctly. I have found a few threads with the same problem but no actual explanation of what fixed it, the threads just ended. Any help would be appreciated. Rb25det s1 walbro255 fuel pump nismo fpr holset hx35 turbo fmic 3" exhaust freddy intake manifold q45tb q45 maf   Re: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Fri Apr 12, 2013 5:07 am No, I didn't. I found the problem though. There was a break in one of the ecu coolant temp sensor wires. Once it was repaired it fired right up with no problems. I would have never thought a non working coolant temp sensor would have caused such an issue.
    • jtha7
      Strange issue RB25DET wont start

      By jtha7 · Posted

      Hi sorry late reply I didnt get a chance to take any pics (my mechanics on the other side of the city) but the plugs were fouled from being too rich. I noticed the MAF wasn't genuine, so I replaced it with a genuine green label unit. I also swapped in a different ignitor, but the issue remains. I've narrowed it down a bit now: - If I unplug and reconnect the fuel lines and install fresh spark plugs, the car starts right up and runs perfectly. Took it around the block with no issues - As soon as I shut it off and try to restart, it won't start again - Fuel pressure while cranking is steady around 40 psi, injectors have good spray, return line is clear, and the FPR vacuum is working. It just seems like it's getting flooded after the first start I unplugged coolant sensors to see if its related to ECU flooding but that didnt make a difference. Im thinking its related to this because this issue only started happening after fixing coolant leaks and replacing the bottom part of the stock manifolds coolant pipe. My mechanic took off the inlet to get to get to do these repairs. My mechanics actually just an old mate who's retired now so ill be taking it to a different mechanic who i know has exp with RBs to see if they find anything. If you have any ideas please send em lll give it a try. Ive tried other things like swapping the injectors, fuel rail, different fuel pressure regs, different ignitor, spark plugs, comp test and MAF but the same issue persists.
×
×
  • Create New...