Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

So ive been a fan of R32 GT-R's for years. 10 or 15. ages. its my dream car, really is...

now i have the opportunity to buy one. ive had sleepless nights thinking about owning one, about the joy it will bring me...

until now. crunch time.

i have almost talked myself out of buying one, because of the age of them. im so worried that every time i turn the key im going to do a big end bearing, or lunch a turbo. you get the idea..

i really dont know what to do. i want one so bad, and i have for so long, but now my head tells me dont do it. you read countless threads on this forum about how many engines in gtr's die, and how long they spen off the road being constantly fixed. i just want some one to say "mate, ive owned one for 10 years, and its never skipped a beat"

so ive started thinking about s14's and s15's. s14's are DIRT CHEAP at the moment. and VERY nice s15's can be picked up for the same price as a 32gtr.

...problem is, i dont love them like the 32... at all, but my head says its the much smarter option for a daily car. its not going to see track time, nor do i rip it up so the bitches be mirin'. just dunno what to do

i guess im going to end this with...

'help'

cheers adam

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/380147-buying-r32-gt-r-worries/
Share on other sites

my advise is, if you a worried about the age of the engine etc, is spend more on the purchase eg find one with a fresh engine and new turbos, sure you might have to spend 5k more initially, but saves you worrying about breaking stuff.

But on the other hand stay away from ones claiming to have 100k spent on them very recently then all of a sudden up for sale for 20k.

Find one with the basics done, fresh turbos, fresh engine & pfc or similar (built by a good builder) and talk to the workshop that did the work and be prepared to look at upwards of 10 cars until you find the perfect one for you.

Im in the same boat as you, looking to grab one next year

Leave no stone unturned in getting the correct specimen first up; if possible with genuine low kms and full history. Some more reputable car shops offer a quality 12 month warranty (after reading fine print). Some shops on the other hand have warranties with escape clauses that resemble a sieve. Even whilst they build a warranty into the price, they can still be squeezed whilst buying at the end of any month + they will put the car up on a hoist for your fine tooth comb.

Im going through the same process at the moment where my head and my heart are fighting over what i want. I want another r32 gtr but like you said they are getting on a bit now and if you spend 20 grand now whats to say it wont blow up in a years time costing you a fortune.

My previous gtr's cost me a fair bit and they were well looked after so i believe if you want a good one make sure you spend the extra money and get one with receipts and history etc

But in the end it doesnt mean much as if the engine hasnt been looked after it will let go and all that extra money will be worthless.

Im looking at r32 gtr's with blown engines atm so that way i can get something for a resonable price and i already know all the problems with it, spend the money getting a decent engine built so i know i wont have to spend more money unexpectedly and i know it has been done right.

Adam - I dont know whether you like them or not, but what about 33 R's?

Newer cars with some bugs Ironed out, and not much more $$ over the 32.

That is the way my head wants to go + Im a tall f**ker and I remember trying to drive Michaels (babyskyline) car a few years back, and my knees were around my ears

mate i think when they are done right, 33r's have AMAZING road presence. when done wrong... well, you know..

the thought has crossed my mind, but i have been putting all my time into finding the right 32.

i do like the space in them too, but thats a bit of a catch 22 with them..

in what way mate?

The 33 cost me more to purchase than anything but i looked after it. Spent a bit of money doing little things and replacing parts that were slowly deteriorating due to age as well as the turbos which was a bit of money but other than that i didnt have too much trouble. As well as mods but thats the same with any car.

The r32 was a bit cheaper but due to its age there was a bit more preventative maintanence. Things just get old and need replacing and i always work on the theory that if you own a gtr no matter what sort it is, r32-r33-r34, you should have 5-8 grand in the bank just for those times when something goes wrong and you need new turbos or a rebuild etc

In the end if you find the right car and you want it then buy it but always remember unless there are receipts or you did it yourself, then the engine will need a rebuild sometime and it wont be cheap.

Adam - I dont know whether you like them or not, but what about 33 R's?

Newer cars with some bugs Ironed out, and not much more $$ over the 32.

That is the way my head wants to go + Im a tall f**ker and I remember trying to drive Michaels (babyskyline) car a few years back, and my knees were around my ears

Yeh i remember that day ahahaha was funny watching you try and fit in. The r33 is definitly more spacious but im 6'2 and i dont have any real problems with a r32 but compared to a r33 they are a lot smaller inside.

So everyone thinks you shouldn't be paying more than $20k for a 32 GTR but I wonder how many people have seriously looked for them. I hunted for one for months and everything I looked at had issues that I would have had to spend time and money to fix up. Not to mention if you want one with a freshly rebuilt motor the seller would have to factor in that it probably cost them upwards of $10k.

So for sure, keep looking, but if the right one comes along I'd be prepared to pay more because good ones are really hard to find.... I gave up and bought a 34, hopefully I'll find the right 32 sometime in the future.

any 15+ year old car will have issues unfortunately.

Hell 34Rs are getting to the age where their price will plummet due to age.

I'm still finding it hard to justify 20k on another car when I could spend 10 on the Snoarer and it will be better/faster than 90% of GTRs out there

So everyone thinks you shouldn't be paying more than $20k for a 32 GTR but I wonder how many people have seriously looked for them.

me. i have put a f**k load of tme and money looking around for one. i have seen a few really nice examples for sub 20k. to be honnest out of the 4 i have looked at priced over 20k, only one was any better than the majority of the 15-18k examples i have seen.

Just look around and you'll find a good one mite take some time, I got my Nismo edition for 20.5k, and it's f**king mint, I trash the crap out of it, trackdays, drags, on the street and she's never missed abeat. Don't listen to all the crap on these forums about how the r32's are to old and blar blar, they are a pritty bulletproof car, strong gearbox, diff, and the engine is not that bad, just treat it right!!

Just buy 1

Just look around and you'll find a good one mite take some time, I got my Nismo edition for 20.5k, and it's f**king mint, I trash the crap out of it, trackdays, drags, on the street and she's never missed abeat. Don't listen to all the crap on these forums about how the r32's are to old and blar blar, they are a pritty bulletproof car, strong gearbox, diff, and the engine is not that bad, just treat it right!!

Just buy 1

mate you are a gem! thats the response im looking for!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Can I suggest you try EBC directly again and link them to as many competitor catalogues as you can to show their listing is incorrect, eg https://dba.com.au/product/front-4000-series-hd-brake-rotor-dba42304/ If you have access to an R33 GTST VIN and your VIN, you could also use a Nissan Parts lookup like Amayama to show them the part number is different between 33 GTST and 34 GTT which may get their attention
    • So i got reply from EBC and they just this site where you can clearly see those 296mm fronts on R34 GTT. I send them photos and "quotes" that 296mm are not for 34 GTT and they are too small. But it will be very hard to return them cuz nobody here knows 100% and they just copy those EBC catalogue :-D https://ebcbrakesdirect.com/automotive/nissan/skyline-r34
    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
×
×
  • Create New...