Jump to content
SAU Community

Error Code 21 -No Ignition Signal

MasterJdoggy

By MasterJdoggy,
in Four Door Family & Wagoneers

 Share

Recommended Posts

MasterJdoggy Enthusiast

MasterJdoggy

Posted
Posted

Hey all,

I was hoping someone may know or can point me in the right direction i have done a search over the forums but didnt get much in return. I was drive the other day and this is the first time ever the car has missed a beat the engine light came on but after getting home any hooking the seach tool I have and error code 21 - No Ignition Signal (Ign Signal-Primary) and I have no idea what this really mean. The car runs normal before and after the light comes on and start first time every time till this day.

As I drove it the follow day and the warning didnt come back up so I was think maybe it have a hick up but than drove her the following day after and 10 minutes into the drive she displayed the engine light warning.(same error) did the same again to night

I don't know what other details to give you but if anyone has any idea would be great.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/380218-error-code-21-no-ignition-signal/
Share on other sites
MasterJdoggy Enthusiast

MasterJdoggy

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Well that's Just great....... I had been thinking about getting new one soon but not right now as trying to save for another house.

Thanks for this trip I'll let it run and see what other may say as well..

BMX666 Enthusiast

BMX666

Posted
Posted

My C34 started doing that the day after got it. Very intermittently. But when the light came on it'd run like a pig. I checked the code with a paperclip and got 21. Did some research, replaced the coilpacks, and it's still going strong nearly 9 months later. I got Yellowjacket coilpacks delivered to my door for $420 and put them in myself. It's not that hard, just a little fiddly and I'm no mechanic. Took me 3 hours from start to finish. I checked the plugs while I had the coilpacks out too.

KiwiRS4T Grand Master

KiwiRS4T

Posted
Posted

If there is no money in the budget for coilpacks just now you can do the quick fix - pull the coilpacks out and spray them with insulating material - there are a few threads with suggestions - and pull your plugs out and replace them if necessary but in any case gap them down to 0.8mm.

BTW I just bought a set of brand new OEM coilpacks for AU$400 off ebay - going fine in my car now - I think ke is an SAU members but doesn't currently have a lsiting.

Tangles Grand Master

Tangles

Posted
Posted

Id suggest Selleys #401 hi-temp industrial strength silicone sealant (+ corking gun to apply) from your local hardware store for under $20.

Layer it around the coilpacks to stop breakdwon / wasted spark. Will get you by for a fair while :)

BensDR30 Experienced

BensDR30

Posted
Posted

If there is no money in the budget for coilpacks just now you can do the quick fix - pull the coilpacks out and spray them with insulating material - there are a few threads with suggestions - and pull your plugs out and replace them if necessary but in any case gap them down to 0.8mm.

BTW I just bought a set of brand new OEM coilpacks for AU$400 off ebay - going fine in my car now - I think ke is an SAU members but doesn't currently have a lsiting.

Snap,

I have just bought a set from Adam HERE for my S1 and it's all good.

pipster11 Grand Master

pipster11

Posted
Posted

If there is no money in the budget for coilpacks just now you can do the quick fix - pull the coilpacks out and spray them with insulating material - there are a few threads with suggestions - and pull your plugs out and replace them if necessary but in any case gap them down to 0.8mm.

BTW I just bought a set of brand new OEM coilpacks for AU$400 off ebay - going fine in my car now - I think ke is an SAU members but doesn't currently have a lsiting.

self amalgamating tape is the go now apparently

kinda looks like tape, but its made of rubber

MasterJdoggy Enthusiast

MasterJdoggy

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Hey thanks all I'll give that a go as I would like that car running to do a few runs down Eastern Creek strip in the next 2 week as we have booked the strip for the day to play around on it.

  • 2 years later...
hollypopx Newbie

hollypopx

Posted
Posted

Sorry to dig this up! but did you have any luck from replacing the coils? having the exact same issue not missing etc have replaced 2 coils that were not genuine nissan parts and the engine light is still on :dry: don't really want to replace the other 4 if it was something else!

Thanks

  • 4 weeks later...
BigDirtyJase Experienced

BigDirtyJase

Posted
Posted

Hey Hollypopx

Best thing to do is to reset the ECU to clear the fault codes and test.

I had this same fault code a while ago....it was easier for me to replace the all the coilpacks (and it would come out to be cheaper in the long run)

Now you can go for the quick fix and do what Tangles has suggested but after a while they will eventually break down...you have to remember they would have been in the car since day 1 and they don't last forever

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • uchoa
      Howdy from the states.

      By uchoa 路 Posted

      To be determined, Luke, to be determined. 馃榿 Definitely the car
    • Duncan
      S1 headlights?

      By Duncan 路 Posted

      It might be worth having a good look at the chassis behind the bumper then; most people prefer the series 2 look so it might have been changed to cheaper parts as part of an earlier repair
    • Celticsfan03
      S1 headlights?

      By Celticsfan03 路 Posted

      The car itself a series 2. I was just curious about the headlights and just wanted to confirm that they were series 1. Good to know the rest of the front end is series 1. It鈥檒l be easier for me to find parts on the aftermarket side of things lol
    • WMDC35
      R34 engine swap Rb25de neo to s1 Rb25det

      By WMDC35 路 Posted

      If you've wired up the coils & injectors properly, & have the neo CAS loom for the trigger, it should all work. The VCT works the same way so just different plugs between s1 & neo. Assuming DBW if no IAC. Don't bother with the stock boost solenoid with g4x.
    • GTSBoy
      R34 engine swap Rb25de neo to s1 Rb25det

      By GTSBoy 路 Posted

      THERE IS NO IAT SENSOR ON ANY SINGLE TURBO RB. And the one on an RB26 is not for "engine control" - it's really too big and too slow and is only used for over-temp alarming (as far as I can tell). Anyway, you don't have one. You want/need one for the Link, then you need to buy one, find a spot for it, and wire it in. You do know that the stock boost solenoid is not capable of "control", right? It is merely on or off, for the low boost (5 psi) and high boost (7psi), which the ECU enforces mostly based on gear. The stock solenoid is not for PWM control and is not plumbed up in a way to provide it. If you want to control boost properly, then you need a proper MAC valve. And yes, you can wire either of them direct to the ECU. Well, I assume you can - I don't know what the boost solenoid pins on the plug and play Link are capable of. They really should be as capable as any normal Link - but seeing as it is plg and play, it might be limited to stock functionality. Read the doco.   You really do just want to plug stuff together without understanding how it works, right? I can't help you there. I don't know the plug types or pinning on half the stuff you're asking about. If I had to do it I would sit down with the wiring diagrams, the car/looms and a multimeter and work out what is what.
脳
脳
  • Create New...