Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ok so, my car is shit, that's a good start.

but seriously

I always road tune my car, just do it myself with the data logit package etc.

Thought, hey why not throw it on the dyno and have a quick look at where i am at.

I'm about to upgrade the exhaust and thought it would be interesting to see what difference is made and was thinking of helping out this site with some real world data etc.

my car ......

R32 GTR

R33 rb26 stock bottom end

JUN 264 9.7mm

700cc sards

z32 AFM's stock airbox, KnN panel

2860-5's

exhaust is...

HKS copy dumps

some no name s/s front pipe 63mm x 2 into 3"

3" decat

HKS super dragger

The dyno i used is a Dyno Dynamics with latest software etc, owned privately.

The owner has tuned a few cars but, he left me to my own to use his dyno etc and just go for it.:teehee:

This is great for me, because i love playing with this sort of stuff etc. Not awsome for when i would like support.

When i went i hadn't slept for 23 hours, because of night shift, yep, shit idea, so i really wasn't on the ball on the day either, :wacko:

any way, results....

Top graph boost and tourqe

bottom kw and AF

dont laugh......

IMG_0478.jpg

IMG_0477.jpg

Edited by blue_vl_t
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/380762-my-laughable-dyno-results/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 48
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

You think so?

I was thinking i was running 1.5 bar, i have a 1.5 bar gauge and upped the boost until i thought it was at the top of the gauge,

so was quite shocked to see what his dyno had to say, assuming i was running 22 psi max, i assume his sensor is reading ok???

I will fit a better gauge soon anyway to see for sure.

I really think the top of the graph is really flat.

perhaps indicating an exhaust upgrade, which i will be doing regardless.

one other thing i was thinking, with the stock air box, i only run the stock air feed, i will remove the 'chamber' from the botom of the box to see if the extra 3" hole makes much difference.

really looks like a restriction to me, the power just rises and stops dead, then flat lines......

I have my theories, but i'm keen to see what people think if could be

I have some HPI 3" dumps and twin 3" into 4" system to go on, just needs a few more bit modified etc. should be soon

Also i do have some cam gears, but not fitted, mostly because they are ebay ones, and i'm unsure if i should trust them???

true, i only have a cheap ass turbotech valve on it too.

Before a retest i will

remove the chamber from the air box

install a EBC, probably Profec B 2

install the new exhaust.

Triple check the cam timing and base ignition timing.

funny thing is, with any more than 14 degrees of timing the power seemed to drop, unless the heat soak make s a huge difference??

Ahh the joy of learning :laugh:

It also looks a bit lazy onto boost... I know -5s aren't exactly punchy on a 2.6L but surely you should be hitting 20psi a bit earlier than that?

I was thinking this also, "big" (lol) rush of power seems very close to 5000rpm on the street :unsure:

Edited by blue_vl_t

Ill bet with the new exhaust you will be able to run a heap more timing and pick up some response to boot.

lets hope so.

I really wanted to do a before/after test, will be good for me and the forum, if it makes the difference to push power over 350rwkw where it should be i will be quite shocked!!!

true, i only have a cheap ass turbotech valve on it too.

Im just running off actuators and a bleed, on much sooner than you are :)

Fix the exhaust, also check the cams are correctly dialled in, that can often be a problem.

Get 20psi holding rather than falling away to 15psi and you'll be right.

Im just running off actuators and a bleed, on much sooner than you are :)

Fix the exhaust, also check the cams are correctly dialled in, that can often be a problem.

Get 20psi holding rather than falling away to 15psi and you'll be right.

on the top graph, the boost is dropping from 27 to 25 psi, fairly sure thats right.............

Oh yes indeed, looking from my phone again, i should stop doing that :(

The boost graph is even lazier then than i thought now im looking from my PC.

Definately exhaust and get the boost control sorted so it comes on much earlier like it should. It still could indeed be the cams not dialled in correctly too.

on the top graph, the boost is dropping from 27 to 25 psi, fairly sure thats right.............

No thats wrong, thats your torque. Notice it starts way off the charts for what you could consider vacuum? Whereas the other one is accurate for what you expect.

Your boost is hitting 20 and bleeding down to 15.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So could it be assumed it has been installed intentionally with potentially a power FC boost controller kit? 
    • Had my rig on Matt's dyno at PITS the other day. After a few years between tunes I added a few sensors and swapped intercoolers. Result. 553hp at 26psi. Not bad for an FJ20 that was built in 2007. The problem.. It filled the overflow bottle on hard runs which leads me to believe the head gasket isn't sealing. I have a coolant pressure sensor which was reading cap pressure at 22psi and occasionally overrunning to 23/24 psi on deceleration after a pull. It was not spiking. It has arp2000 head studs and a cometic gasket. As its been 18 years in service, I pulled the engine out and head off. Everything looks good but we obviously have an issue. Where I'm at.. Years ago I had the same issue, I checked the stud tension and they were all over the place. Some at 60 to 70 and some up near 90. I nipped them all to 100ft lbs and this stopped the water push until now. I believe this compromised the gasket back then. What do I do? 2 options are..  1) I bought arp 625+s, which I could put in with a new gasket. Thinking Kameari this time, reassemble and try again. 2) strip the block, get fire rings machined in with copper gasket and try that. I do not want to push it more than 28 to 30psi. I think the turbo will be out by then anyway. (G30-770). My other concern is the long term ability of a copper head gasket. Are they streetable for years? I feel like a new gasket with the new studs will probably suffice, but I don't know. Any thoughts welcome and advice on copper gaskets and fire rings. Thanks!
    • I'm a fan of the JZX110, and the Aristo. Big cruiser cars, and with the factory cars, super comfortable and feel like you're driving an armchair! And the JZ motors are a pretty nice engine too, especially with some basic mods.   The import process, and the need to be able to trust people, and the fact there's so many scammers around is what ever puts me off wanting to go through that ordeal!
    • I don't care for these at all, but at least the underside looks straight and not rusty. A good basis for a long life. Many cars from Japan have been lifted with forklifts and f**ked almost irrepairably.
    • Yes, but it's not dumb or dodgy. You can build a perfectly good boost controller from a pressure reg, a relief valve (looks same same as a reg if all from Norgren or SMC, for example) and a check valve. I ran one for years. Only superceded with  EBC because I could get one for cheaps and wanted finer control.   THis mod is certainly not a sketchy boost mod, provided the boost is kept below the "spin to death" threshold of the turbos.
×
×
  • Create New...